Hey all,
I started a post a few weeks ago and this is a bit of a follow up to that. Thanks again to Mapleman and others with the wealth of info on that post.
To recap, I am finishing up on some kitchen cabinets for a friend. She wants them painted white. She has a SW (Shewin Williams) paint code. She has some existing cabinetry that will mate with what I’m making here. She wants me to finish the cabinets I’m making in a white SW color and she will use the same color to hand paint the existing cabinets by herself.
I’m looking again at what I can spray in my detached garage with a box fan exhaust and Fuji spray 4 stage HVLP system. In the last post I was leaning towards using the vinyl sealer and CV but I’m also wondering about waterbased finishes that would be durable enough in a kichen. The problem is that I think I will have to stay with SW to keep colors matched. Any suggestions/advice. I need to get this going this weekend.
Othe considerations:
- Fall has set in in Wisconsin. Temps this weekend will be in the mid to high 50s. It thats warm enough then great but if not I don’t want to use any type of heater while spraying solvents.
- Needs to be able to spray HVLP
- Needs to be durable enough for kitchen cabinets.
- Again I think I need to stay with SW so it can be matched to what she is painting by hand.
Thanks
Replies
gc:
The thread to which you refer was also very helpful to me as I needed to do some bathroom wainscoting in a hurry (so the toilet could be fitted).
I went to my S-W store and they suggested Sherwood Vinyl Primer Surfacer (CC-F39) followed by White CAB-Acrylic Lacquer (Gloss Warm White (M64W1). I originally wanted the low-gloss (M64W2) but had to use the gloss. The S-W store manager said I would hardly notice the difference - it comes out as a very nice, warm satin finish.
It comes in 5 gallon containers but the store decanted a gallon of the lacquer and tinted to my color choice using 844 colorants.
I sanded the wood to 220 and applied the sealer and sanded again with 320 and then applied one top coat of the lacquer. It sprayed well, but I did have to add lacquer thinner K22 to both the sealer (25 to 30%) and the lacquer (20%). I also used a 1.5mm tip for the sealer and my usual 1.4 mm for the lacquer. I also added 3% Butyl Cellusolve to slightly retard the finish.
I broke all the rules of using a new product against a deadline. I had 24 hours to apply the finish and install! It went on easily after I had got the thinning right and the color is exactly what my wife wanted. BTW, I spray outside.
It seems to me that these two products will fit your requirements and allow you to color match to the pre-existing cabinets. I too use an HVLP system. It's also a HAPS-compliant finish so durability shouldn't be a problem.
Regards,
Hastings
Edited 10/10/2007 1:45 pm ET by Hastings
Hastings,
Thanks for your reply. It sounds like you went with the Mapleman formula too. I don't think I'm too worried about spraying that stuff in my garage with the box fan. Its virtualy outside as I keep my garage door half open.
So to be sure, the color you choose is able to be mixed in a normal oil based paint for brushing on? Was the retarder needed do to temp. or humidity? What is the lowest recommended temperature for spraying this?
Also I would like to get this done in a hurry. It sounds like you pushed the limit but what is the recommended dry time between coats and such?
Edited 10/10/2007 5:04 pm ET by gcg
"So to be sure, the color you choose is able to be mixed in a normal oil based paint for brushing on?"The products I used and recommend to you based on my experience can only be colored by 844 colorants. These are different than those for ordinary S-W paints. For example, my local S-W store does not have the ability to mix 844 colorants so they took the formula that I use for their regular paints."Was the retarder needed do to temp. or humidity?"Both. I live on the Gulf Coast with both high temperature and high humidity."What is the lowest recommended temperature for spraying this?"I cannot find an answer. Best to talk to a S-W tech."It sounds like you pushed the limit but what is the recommended dry time between coats and such?"The beauty of these products is their quick dry and turnaround:Drying to ouch 5 to 10 minutes
To handle 20 mins.
To Sand 30 to 60 mins.
To recoat 30 to 60 mins.Hastings
"I think I will have to stay with SW to keep colors matched."
You're right about staying with SW. If you get a match from another maker, they could be using different tinting pigments that match under the light in the paint store, but look different (this is called metamerism)under the lighting conditions in the client's kitchen.
You will also have to stay with the same type of paint to keep the colors matched. A water based acrylic and an alkyd (even waterborne alkyd) may match at first, but alkyd will yellow with time and then they will no longer match.
Are you saying that if she uses the oil base and I use the CV tinted to match that they will end up not matching? Will it really be noticeable? If this is the case I'm not sure how to proceed. How does oil based paint spray with HVLP?
"Are you saying that if she uses the oil base and I use the CV tinted to match that they will end up not matching?"Right, unless your CV is also an alkyd resin product that will also yellow over time. By CV, are you referring to Spies Heckel CV series paints for commercial vehicles? Some of those are two component polyurethanes and some seem to be alkyd enamels.Oil base paints spray beautifully through HVLP; better than water base. All that is necessary is to reduce to a suitable viscosity to get good atomization and to use the thinner recommended by the paint manufacturer; slower thinners for turbine HVLP because of the higher temperature of the air stream. BruceT
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