Have been building furniture for a living for over 20 years, and I am just now attempting to adhere an ash burl veneer to the sides of an inverted pyramid pedestal for a glass table top. The width of the burl is about 4” and it does not have a paper backing. I do not have veneering tools. I am concerned about getting the waves out of the burl prior to glue up and about glue seeping thru the veneer. If I just glue the veneer with a backing of some melamine I feel the waves will come out but will they also crack or split. If I get this far then what is the best method to flush trim the burl? The main body of the piece is alder, and the burl is only an accent on the edge of the top and bottom. Thanks for any info.
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Replies
Bud,
Standard procedure for wavy/buckled veneers is to moisten the sheet with water (I use a windex-type spritzer bottle) and let it relax for a couple minutes. Then press it flat between two pieces of 3/4" plywood or such. Sandwich the veneers between several sheets of newspaper to absorb the moisture. Change the newspaper every day for two or three days. The veneer will eventually dry enough to be gluable. Keep it pressed flat til you glue it down.
I tint yellow glue with a little water based aniline dye to make bleed thru less noticeable. With the burl, you'll likely have some scraping to do, where the glue comes through voids in the veneer, but what remains in the cracks won't be objectionable. Hot hide glue avoids the need to tint, but requires another set of skills (veneer hammering, or heated cauls) to lay the veneer.
Cheers,
Ray
Thanks for the info. I have three sheets of veneer about 14" x 48", can I put all three within the same press with newspaper between each veneer? Also, what is the best method to cut the veneer prior to application and then the best method to flush it up to the edges.
Thanks,
Allen
Allen,
I've pressed two or three slices of veneer at the same time with no problem. Use three or four thicknesses of paper between the veneers. Make sure the Plywood or whatever you use to press with, is good and flat. Use plenty of weight on top.
I normally cut the veneer to have about 1/8" or so overhang. I use a straightedge and a sharp knife, exacto or carver's skew. It's a little risky to saw a burl, it tends to want to break out around the cut. After you've pressed it, it'll have a bit of moisture left in it so it will be less brittle.
I trim with a sharp bench chisel, or low angle block plane. If you have a good bond right up to the edge (I like to see a little bit of squeeze out) and apply cutting pressure towards the corner (as if pressing the veneer joint tighter together) you shouldn't have a problem. Take your time, light cuts, and work carefully.
Good luck,
Ray
Hey Bud, You may want to go to the woodweb site, and scrole down the right hand column and check out the veneering archives. I am sure this has been covered many times and ways over there.
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