I am in the process of purchasing a vacuum bag to use for bent lams and veneered panels on an upcoming project. I have used unibond 800 previously for some clamp formed bent lams and it worked well although the cleanup is tough. My question is would this be the wrong glue to use to adhere veneers to ply substrates because of the clean up issue. I am assuming there might be some bleed through and I would be scraping glue off an expensive veneer.
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Replies
studly,
I've had good luck with this, http://www.joewoodworker.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=40&products_id=59
Click on the battle of the bonds logo on that page for a comparison to titebonds cold press glue.
Rob
Would this also be suitable for the bent lams?
studly,
If you are talking about making the bent lams themselves, I would say no. The better bond doesn't dry rigid. The unibond that you have been using is the best I know of for bent laminations.
Rob
Studly:
I am vacuuming for some years,and using simple PVA glue( here in Brasil,we only find few types of glue on the consumer market) and getting very good results: I mean that the glue is not the main issue of a gluing,but how many glue you spread on,;the density of the veneer,etc.When veneering MDF,Y left about three hours in room temperature;when bent laminating,about 8 hours at room temp.About bleeding trhrough,use a dense veneer,and not too much glue.Only the experience tells you .Make some scraps before.
I'm not sure what type of glue unibond is, but for bent laminations I always use a urea formeldahyde glue. Most PVA glues allow to much creep. I tried using a PVA on a bent laminations for some of my Bar Stool seats, I noticed that after a few days, the curves were not as nice. I could see that the wood was trying to pull itself back into it's natural shape (flat). But I have had sucsess with 2 part cross-linking PVA glues with bent laminations.
But the best I have used yet is the Urea Formeldahydy.
Please forgive my spelling.
http://www.kalafinefurniture.blogspot.com
Studly,
I've used Unibond 800 for numerous yrs. It is excellent for flat and curved veneer work. If your concerned about bleed thru, use the Blocker. Myself, I always look for bleed thru. This tells me I had enough glue down. Getting the correct amount of glue applied is key to getting a good bond and not having severe bleed thru.
When you talk about cleanup, I don't know if you're talking about before or after the glue cures. I almost never clean glue off the work piece( except in some instances when dealing with certain joints) as for general work veneering or laminations cleanup is after curing and during machining. Cleaning glue, uncured from rollers and utensils is no harder than cleaning up latex paint.
Greetings,
I have used Unibond 800 extensively for veneering with good success. I have also used JWW cold press glue, and I now prefer it to Unibond 800 because of cycle time and ease of use. Beware of the urea formaldehyde glues because they are temperature sensitive. They require a minimum temperature of about 70 degrees F and will require several hours to cure at that temperature. At 95 degrees, they will cure in one or two hours. I ended up putting a box of styrofoam around my vac press and used a space heater to warm up the space. (My basement shop is typically 65 degrees) That worked well but it is a pain.
The bleed thru is not a huge problem unless there is a contrast between the glue and veneer colors. Unibond is a mixture of powder and liquid, and the powder is available in dark or light colors. You can also mix the two colors of powder to get a compromise shade. I have had bleed through on many panels, and it rarely shows after clean up and sanding.
For bent laminations, I have successfully used epoxy, polyurethane glues, and weldwood urea formaldehyde powder resin glue. The latter is a powder that you mix with water. It is also temp sensitive, and takes a longer to cure than Unibond 800. All of these previously mentioned glues cure to a hard glue line. Clean up of the edges, which can by very messy, is not a huge problem if you let the glue cure thoroughly before removing the squeeze out. PVA glues are not recommended for bent lamination because they cure soft and may creep, depending on the shape of the lamination. (I am unsure about the JWW cold press glue. It has additives to improve its hardness properties, but I don't know if they completely address the creep issues.) Bent laminations can be messy, so prepare in advance by protecting your forms with wax or clear tape. Think the process through and take reasonable precautions.
You will really enjoy your new capabilities in creating curved pieces, once you get a little experience. Goog luck.
Tom.
Unibond 800 is a urea-formaldehyde glue. Here is a tip for warming your press without the hassle you have now. Put an electric blanket directly on top of the press, set it on its highest setting and cover that with a couple of comforters that you stole from the linen closet. Works very well.
Rob
Good to know that uni-bond it a urea. I have done the electric blanket on the press trick alot and it works great. Helps speed up the process alittle.Kaleo
http://www.kalafinefurniture.blogspot.com
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