Replies

1. 
   BillHartmann | Feb 09, 2003 08:49pm | #1

   "1/3 spar varnish for extra protection"

   Extra protection from what?

   Spar varnish is already a "long oil" finish. That is it has lots of extra oil in it to make a softer finish that will withstand large changes in weather and some UV protection.

   I would use an interior varnish.

   Satin and flat finishes are just standard finishes with some fine partical added as flatenting agents. They cloud the finish and also reduce it's strenght. I prefer to to use glossy and then go over it with skotchbrite and wax.

   But on an oil/varnish mix you don't build that much finish, it is more of a penatrating finish so satiny anyway.

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 10, 2003 02:09am | #4

   "They [flattening agents] cloud the finish and also reduce it's strenght. I prefer to to use glossy and then go over it with. . ."

   Ahhhhhh, a mystery solved.  For the past 2 or 3 weeks, after reading up on rubbing out and such, I've been wondering why the heck we're supposed to use a glossy finish and then rub it out, rather than just use a satin or flat in the first place!  Thank you sir.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   Gretchen | Feb 10, 2003 05:22am | #5

   why the heck we're supposed to use a glossy finish and then rub it out, rather than just use a satin or flat in the first place!  Thank you sir

   According to those here, the "other" way or another way to do it is to use gloss up to the last coat and then, if you want a satin finish" wipe on a coat of satin.That is fine.  I have, for a number of years, been doing refinishing jobs and have another method.  I, personally, have found an excellent finish to use is satin marine spar varnish (non-poly), wipe-on, 50/50,  kept well stirred while applying.  It is an exceedingly forgiving finish in the presence of children--and now--grandchildren--flexible, I guess, but it doesn't chip.  I have ceased posting this in each case someone asked  but felt that I might just interject it here.  There are numerous among you who disagree.  I just have my own experience to fall back on.Gretchen

1. 
   RickL750 | Feb 11, 2003 04:26pm | #9

   Hi Gretchen,

   Your name has come-up a couple of times as someone that likes the use of spar varnish. I’ve brought up the issue a few times in this forum because I’m comfortable using it coming from the wooden boat industry. I now build furniture and looking for recipes that include spar varnish. I’ve read the article called “An Easy, Durable Finish”  by Lon Schleining along with others and would like to get more info on other ways of using it. I was wondering if you would be so kind as to share your method with me, either on this thread or by e-mail.

   Thank you,

   RickL

   Edited 2/11/2003 8:31:57 AM ET by R!CKL

   Edited 2/11/2003 8:32:53 AM ET by R!CKL

1. 
   Gretchen | Feb 11, 2003 04:40pm | #10

   I use non-poly spar varnish thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits as a wipe on finish. It caused a LOT of concern among many here so I have just chosen to not continually post it as a  method..  It is a beautiful, deep, durable finish--impervious to water and alcohol, heat resistant and does not chip when small people--first my own and now my grands--beat on it or run into it.  And of course, as a wipe on it is very easy to apply.   Many say it is too soft.  So be it for them.  It has worked for me and for my sister  in 40+  years of refinishing.  I do not "rub out" the finish--use it as satin--so the "knock" that it is "too soft" to rub out may be true. It just does not apply to my uses.

   Thanks for asking.  If you need any more info I would be glad to reply.Gretchen

2. 
   RickL750 | Feb 11, 2003 05:06pm | #11

   Thank you for the info. I’ve heard of it been used by a couple of boat builders in that manner on cabinets and other parts of boat interiors as not to build-up the finish the way it’s done on exterior surfaces. BTW how many coats do you usually apply and do you do anything in between coats and how long between coats.

   Thank you again,

   RickL

3. 
   Gretchen | Feb 11, 2003 05:52pm | #12

   I usually apply 8-10 coats on surfaces that will get wear and maybe 6 to sides.  The first several coats look awful--you will wonder if you are doing something wrong! I re-apply when it is dry to the touch.  I give a VERY light sanding after a couple of coats.Gretchen

4. 
   BillHartmann | Feb 11, 2003 07:19pm | #13

   Thinning a varnish gives you a wiping varnish.

   That is my favorite finish, but I use an interior quick drying (SW) and naptha.

   But the spar varnish already has extra oil in it.

   My guess is that what you are doing is close to the oil/thinner/varnish blends.

5. 
   Gretchen | Feb 11, 2003 09:51pm | #15

   Thinning a varnish gives you a wiping varnish

   Yes, I know.

   But the spar varnish already has extra oil in it.

   Yes, making it a "long oil varnish" perhaps more like what varnishes  in use prior to poly's introduction.

   My guess is that what you are doing is close to the oil/thinner/varnish blends.

   It could be but I suspect it still has more resins in it than something like Danish oil, if that is what you are speaking about.Gretchen

6. 
   ChasStanford | Feb 12, 2003 04:36am | #16

   Would you mind mentioning the brand that you use (again).?

7. 
   Gretchen | Feb 12, 2003 06:27am | #18

   Would you mind mentioning the brand that you use (again).?

   McCloskey or Pratt & LambertGretchen

8. 
   ChasStanford | Feb 12, 2003 02:58pm | #20

   Thanks Gretchen

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 09, 2003 09:16pm | #2

   I agree with Bill totally. Spar varnish will not add any "extra protection". Start with equal parts of boiled linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits. If you want some additional protection, add some more varnish to the mixture. I generally go to 50% varnish, the equal parts of BLO and mineral spirits.

   I would not use real tung oil either. It is very slow curing and brings nothing to the party.

1. 
   Timberwerks | Feb 09, 2003 10:20pm | #3

   Thanks Guy's

   I had my doubt's about the spar varnish. Do you think a gloss varnish is the best choice to end up with a satin finish? Also do you have any brands of varnish you would like to recomend?

   Thanks Again

   Dale

3. 
   hmthomas | Feb 10, 2003 06:20am | #6

   Timber, I thought I'ld chime in on the Maloof products. I used two different types, one was a poly the other was a wax/oil. Both worked fine.  Follow the directions, sand to about 400 grit, rub the product onto the wood, allow it to set a few minutes then rub it down with a clean rag or cheescloth and allow it to dry overnight. It takes several coats but the final finish is a soft lustre, hand rubbed super smooth finish. I'll use it again. One nice thing about this finish is that you don't have to be tooo careful about dust in the shop 'cause you'll be rubbing it down again tomorrow.

   good luck, Hugh

4. 
   johnhardy | Feb 10, 2003 11:44pm | #7

   Maloof's finish is 1/3 tung oil, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, and 1/3 varnish. I've used it with success.

   John

5. 
   ChasStanford | Feb 11, 2003 02:58pm | #8

   Visit some instrument makers forums - violins particularly, if you want to learn all you can about cooking your own varnishes. 

1. 
   Divad | Feb 17, 2003 09:40pm | #21

   Do you have the URLs for such forums? Can you share them please?

   Thanks_DAVID R. WARNER, JR

6. 
   seramala | Feb 11, 2003 07:27pm | #14

   I am new at making my own finishes and I read Maloof and Frid. I tried recently 1/3 tung oil, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 turpentine and a table spoon of polyurethane because I read somewhere that it was useful. I am happy with the finish. It was on cherry and can be left glossy or rubbed with naptha and rotten stone on a felt pad for a killer semi-gloss.

7. 
   Timberwerks | Feb 12, 2003 04:41am | #17

   Thanks for all the great replies everybody.

   Dale

8. 
   SIGNMAN | Feb 12, 2003 07:55am | #19

   TIMBER,

       I USED THE MALOOF POLY/OIL FINISH ON A LARGE CHERRY PROJECT AND BOTH THE CLIENT AND I WERE VERY PLEASED WITH THE RESULTS.  BUT FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CAN TO THE LETTER BECAUSE IF YOU FAIL TO RUB ALL OF THE EXCESS OFF COMPLETELY YOU WILL END UP WITH GLOSSIER SPOTS WHERE THE FINISH WAS VERY SLIGHTLY THICKER.  IT PRODUCES A BEAUTIFUL SOFT LUSTRE.

                                                       HOOV

9. 
   Clay | Feb 18, 2003 06:29pm | #22

   What I have been using most recently is about one quarter refined linseed oil and three quarters Minwax polyurethane varnish.  I apply this and then rub it till it is pretty smooth and beginning to set a little.  I am really happy with the way it works.  I get a real nice finish with only two coats.  I would use straight poly on high wear surfaces like stair treads or floors though.