Hi: Have a antique (1880’s) dresser three tops 18’x14″ large one & 6″x14″2 small ones. How to unwarp? Tank
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are they warped or are they cupped? - if warped, I don't know what to tell you - if cupped, you can remove the tops, lay them cup down in the grass in the sun and in a 'short' amount of time they will straighten out - too long a time and they will cup the other way - check them each hour - maybe someone will have a suggestion for adjusting them in place - I've never had much luck, - DOUD
Will try the grasstoday. Thank you David.
David -- I've used this technique on a number of antiques, and it can work very well. I would recommend putting some paper between the grass and the wood. Also, you may find that the wood straightens out, but then re-warps as it dries. You may need to repeat the process 3 or 4 times before it stabilizes. You'll need to get finish on the side that became concave as soon as it stabilizes, as that is the side that is losing moisture the fastest, hence the warp (or "cup" if you will).
I've actually let a piece get slightly cupped in the opposite direction. This minute over-compensation seems to help some. Another tip, in cold weather this technique can be conducted indoors by using a lamp for a heat source. The lamp should not be very close to the wood as you want to warm the entire surface equally. I've used an almost-dry towel covered with paper to provide the moisture beneath.
Edited 4/1/2002 11:04:28 PM ET by forest_girl
This is the second day on the grass for the walnut,will keep you posted. Thank you for the tips. May be that Nevada's grass is not wet enough, we'll see. Tank
Tank, I've had real good sucess with the grass trick. Being in Nevada,you may need to water the grass real good or turn the hose on the cupped side first. Since Nev. is real dry anyway, I would recomend shading the piece. That will allow the concave side to expand without over shrinking the convex side thus producing shake crackes where the sun was on it. Forest Girl is very corect in recomending that you over compensate slightly. It will come back a little. Another trick that I use is to wet paper towels, apply towels to concave side and put the whole thing wet side down on concrete. I normally do this to UNfinished wood, so you will need to pay attention to the finish during this process if you wish to salvage it. I've done this with oak flooring that came out of a flood. It works about 95% of the time. HeidiesDad.
HI Heidi's DAD: Had the lawn airated today,will try again in the A.M.with more water.Next to the shop floor & wet paper. Too nice a piece of furniture to put new walnut on.Thank you for the input. Tank
if all else fails, you might want to try finding someone with a hydraulic veneer press. this technique has worked for me a few times, especially on severely warped peices. in the cabinet shop where i used to work, the top platten on the press would be heated up during the day for veneering, and at night, we would throw in warped peices into the warm press and leave them there over night. there's no need to keep the press on BTW. you could probably also improvise a bit if you can't find a cabinet shop with a press.
Hi Andrew:Wouldn,t you know it, no sooner out of the mouth,about dry Nevada & we get thunder storms in the area(RENO). I'm sure with all the good tips I'll work this out.. THANK YOU ALL will keep posting till it,s right.., Tank
Thanks again for informationon on cupped walnut.. It took most of it out & the rest is pulled down with clamps & glue blocks. Worked good on the grass.Hint> old gap setting gauge works well to slide glue under loose veneer.Tank
Congrats! It's kinda fun in a way, eh? Glad it worked.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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