I have made some 3/4″ cherry rail and stile frames with flat panel inserts using socalled 1/4 ” cherry plywood. My router set cuts a fixed 1/4″ groove for the panel. The plywood varies from 0.190 to 0.200 in thickness. The back side of the panel will show so I want to have a clean appearance. What is the best way to keep the panels from rattling in the oversize groove?
Cutting filler strips 0.375 X 0.050 on my equipment might be a little scary.
Replies
I use Freud under-size bits for plywood
You could cut the groove with a dado set stacked to match the plywoods thickness.
The dado sets I'm familiar with have a minimum thickness of 1/4 inch (using both outside blades). That wouldn't help. There are straight bits sized for the actual thickness of plywood, maybe a 32nd of an inch less. That would get it closer. Or maybe use a 1/8-inch straight or carbide spiral bit and set up a jig to make two passes to get the desired dado width. Or maybe make two overlapping parallel passes with one outside dado saw blade.
You're right. I typically use nominal 3/8ths ply for things like drawer bottoms. So when I need to cut an undersized groove, the dado set is great. I spaced that the OP wanted a shy 1/4. DOH!
Though a double pass on a regular one 1/8th kerf blade could work as long as you had a test board ot two to help you adjust the fence for the second pass. The undesized router bit is probably easier to get nice clean and uniform depth results from. The TS is gonna need some feather boards both side and top especially if the rails are lengthy.
Atlas ,
If re making the stiles and rails to fit is not a desired option , try and get some MDF core Cherry called true 1/4" It may be a domestic product .
good luck dusty
71Atlas
Get yourself some metric bits and a metric vernier to measure the plywood thickness...and your problems will be over.
Another way changes the design of your cabinet a bit, but you can incorporate the split frame method to hold your plywood, and that way you can adjust the frame to the plywood and eliminate measuring altogether.
If you do not know what a split frame is, I attach a sketch from the Internet showing a door with a split frame that adjusts to the framing of the wall...imagine your plywood to be the framing, forget the door, and make a frame that is more elegant than the sketch. JL
Edited 3/3/2007 1:56 pm ET by jeanlou
What is the best way to keep the panels from rattling in the oversize groove?
If rattling is truly the concern, then get some "Spaceballs". They're available from a number of woodworking supply places. They are tiny rubber balls that are meant for just this purpose.
Proud parent of a terrific kid who sells term papers to honor students.
I've also use spaceballs & have been happy with them for years, on my current project I noticed small "wet spots" if you will , on the panels end grain.
It seems the spaceballs are bleeding. I'm using cherry on this project and have never noticed this on oak or maple. Have any of you ever seen this before?
Paul
Edited 3/5/2007 9:04 am ET by CardiacPaul
I haven't noticed the 'wet spots' that you mention, but the vast majority of my raised panels are in other people's homes.
I'm curious -- you mention "on my current project I noticed small "wet spots" if you will , on the panels end grain"; Are you saying that there are streaks coming from the stile/rail grooves?
Or are you seeing something else?
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Yes, these small spots are coming out of the R&S grooves. I wonder if the spaceballs have some sort of oil in the rubber they are made of. This "oil" is only wicking into the panels from the end grain and not the edge grain.
The project that I'm working on is not stained or finished yet & won't be for several weeks. I just picked up the last of the cherry today for the balance of the project,
Tommorow I'll plane & glue up the last of the panels & have the doors finished this week. Then I can watch for more of these mystery spots.
I keep you posted.
Paul
Hi Paul,
I've been using spaceballs fo years as well and never noticed anything like what you're describing. I'm sure that you've checked your unused spaceballs. What's their condition? Could they have gotten wet? Keep us posted.
Paul
My currant batch of spaceballs is rather new & dry. I also have them in a clean container. I'm not to concerned , if it is a oil from the rubber it should cover with the oil stain I'm going to use, or I can try wipping it down with a little thinner or alcohol first.
That being said, I'll be back here in a couple of weeks when I stain my project, crying like a little girl, when all goes to hell.
Keep you posted,
Paul
Space Balls leaving spots
Hello Guys,
I am not sure if you are still online and check your posts regularly
but I have noticed the same thing:
Those spaceballs are leaving spots/marks which I believe is oil-based.
Water would dry over time.
Not knowing what Mfg. made your S/R bits. I can only suggest using S/R bits from http://www.eagleamerica.com They also sell a conversion kit for use with undersized plywood panels.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Try a very small bead of clear silicone inside the rail and stile groove before putting your 1/4" panel inside it. Just make sure you are VERY careful with it, so it doesn't get on the area where your finish will be. You don't need much and possibly just at the corners.
Silicone
Hello,
I wouldn't leave silicone as you will risk fish-eyes on your lacquer then.
Thanks,
Alex
Silicone
Hello,
I wouldn't leave silicone as you will risk fish-eyes on your lacquer then.
Thanks,
Alex
ran into yhis problem the first time a few years ago and was unable to get a metric size cutter at the time to do the job
i went to lee valley and got a set of stacking cutters for my router (2 cutter style) and using the router table had no more problems also i now have the ability to do various widths for metric sheet material
Another suggestion would be to use a 3/16" or 1/8" bit and make two passes to achieve the exact width you want. Through once, flip around and run through again. Must be careful with the set-up. Or use a dap of silicon/space balls to make sure the piece doesnt rattle with the 1/4" cutter.
Hi 71Atlas,
It sounds like you've already milled the parts. If not, do what has already been suggested and make the grooves under sized to fit the plywood. Otherwise , glue the panel in place. Use wooden toothpicks ( the round type ) and push them between the frame and the panel on the backside to force the panel to the outside. When the glue dries, remove. There will be a gap around the perimeter of the frame on the back which may or may not be objectionable, depending on the amount of refinement you're after.
Paul
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