Replies

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 03, 2008 08:15am | #1

   I'm not sure what a twig pot is, but I'll assume for our purposes it's the same as a bowl.  Basically, you need to regulate the drying to prevent cracking.  The slower it dries, the less cracking will occur.  Also, the more evenly it dries, the less cracking will occur.

   You can slow drying by putting it in a cardboard box of shavings (preferably from the turning session) and setting it aside away from any heat sources for a couple weeks.

   To promote even drying, you can coat it with wax.  This will also slow drying.  Also, the thinner the walls, the more evenly it will dry.  Example:  Obviously, the outside of a block of wood will dry faster than the center.  The thinner the block of wood is, the quicker the center will dry (matching the drying rate of the outside).

   There are many, many ways to successfully dry wood.  Turners use everything from wood chips, paper and plastic bags, specially formulated products (Pentacryl), waxes, dish detergent, denatured alcohol to name a few.  Good luck.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
   (soon to be www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   BruceS | Dec 04, 2008 12:32am | #2

   Twig pot is the cheap stuff,  use the leaves ;-)Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   Floss | Dec 04, 2008 04:56am | #3

   Buds, Bruce.Just the buds.Twigs and leaves just give you a headache.And for God sakes stay away from the seeds!F.

2. 
   dkellernc | Dec 04, 2008 09:50pm | #4

   Chris - Thought you might find this interesting - I just read through Roy Underhill's chapter in one of the Woodwright's Shop books on making dough bowls.  These are oblong, so naturally they can't be turned and are carved instead.  But of course the same issue with drying them out without cracking applies.

   He makes mention of the sawdust trick, as well as wrapping the bowl with a paper bag.  However, one of the methods that he says he uses most often and that seems to work just as well is wetting down the end-grain with water every day or so for the first 3 or 4 days of drying.  Simplicity itself - I may try it.  Sure beats paying $100 for pentacryl to soak the bowl in...

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 05, 2008 06:53am | #5

   David,

   That sound really against the grain - wetting a piece of wood to help it dry.  It's certainly an interesting technique which I'll remember, but I probably won't try it as my method of boxing it up with it's own shavings has been flawless so far.

   Taking that off-the-wall technique a step further, how about placing the bowl on a capillary mat like this http://www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?c=1&p=44627&cat=2,44713,53836?  Maybe more trouble than it's worth.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

2. 
   twotowers | Dec 19, 2008 05:22am | #6

   I have been using a technique found in one of the turning books I bought.

   Put it in a microwave and heat it until it is very warm to the touch; say something like three minuets or less for a medium size bowl.
   The moisture leaves the turning in minuets and evenly, and apparently stops the cracking.
   Best
   Jim

1. 
   tinkertom | Dec 19, 2008 04:00pm | #7

   Thanks Jim.  Merry Christmas and hapy turning in the coming year.   Tom

1. 
   twotowers | Dec 20, 2008 02:15am | #8

   And best to you.
   Jim