Replies

1. 
   RonK | Jan 20, 2009 02:49am | #1

   You might want to check the following link an see if there are any chapters near you. I'm sure the members would be able to help. They may have discounts or used tools available.

    

   http://www.woodturner.org/community/chapters/

   
   

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   Edited 1/19/2009 6:49 pm ET by RonK

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Jan 20, 2009 08:35am | #2

   There are so many brands of lathe tools it's hard to recommend one. Don't worry about that though. Familiarize yourself with the tool shapes sold in todays woodworking catalogs and pick up a bowl gouge, spindle gouge, scrapers, parting tool, and a skew. Hard steel is important, but don't overlook the fact that the softer the steel, the easier it is to regrind to try different profiles. You don't mention how big the lathe is or whether you intend to turn bowls or spindles. For a lathe with a 10" capacity, a 1/2HP motor should be fine (most midi lathes come equipped with a 1/2HP motor). The pulley sizes will ultimately determine the speed/torque the motor delivers however. Look for a low-end RPM of around 500-600.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
   (soon to be www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   Scag_man | Jan 20, 2009 06:38pm | #3

   Thanks guys...that's very helpful.  Sounds like my motor power and speed are about right and I'm soon shopping for tools.  The lathe gets a new paint job tonight then it's time to build a stand.  Fun stuff!

3. 
   Napie | Jan 20, 2009 09:12pm | #4

   Single most important piece of advice, LEARN TO RUB THE BEVEL!  Everything after that is easy. Get one of Richard Raffen's videos, best first tool you can buy. 

1. 
   TomHigby | Feb 18, 2009 02:49am | #10

   Rubbing the bevel is only the starting point.  Cutting will only begin when the bevel is lifted slilghtly off the wood.

   Tom

4. 
   mike4244 | Jan 21, 2009 05:41am | #5

   Buy a book and maybe a video to start. Check out Penn State website and their Benjamins Best line of turning tools. These are very good quality at bargain prices. I have some Sorby and Henry Taylor tools which are considered much better. I see no difference at all ,except the price. 1/2 hp will do fine for spindle turning. You could probably turn a bowl with the same motor, usually 1hp would be better. I made my own lathe and bought a 1/2 hp motoe for it. I have done a lot of spindle turning but only two small bowls. The motor I have is perfect for my work. Practice on scrap from the firewood pile,construction lumber, etc. Sharpening the turning tools is important,you need a decent grinder and a white or pink friable wheel.

   mike

1. 
   Scag_man | Jan 21, 2009 05:44pm | #6

   Thanks Mike...lots of good info.   I do have a book that I picked up years ago, so I'll have to dig it out and re-read.  But I have a followup question for you. 

   My motor speed (old washing machine motor) is 1720 rpm, which will give me a range of about 750-1800 rpm when used in conjunction with the five different sized wheels on the lathe. 

   Is this an acceptable speed range?  And when do you run at slow speeds vs. higher speeds. 

1. 
   mike4244 | Jan 22, 2009 05:06am | #7

   1720 is what you want, if the motor was 3450 then your step pulley would have to be much larger . When spindle turning a rough blank, start at under 1000 rpm's.Some will say 1000 is too fast, might be for a beginner.But "under" means what ever works for you considering the species,gouge sharpness and skill level. The idea is too make a cylinder from a square blank to start with.1800 is plenty fast for polishing.I rarely turn faster than 1750 rpm's.The idea is to use slow speeds with out of round pieces and faster speeds when doing detail work.

   Your lathe will be too fast for bowl work unless you can get the blank round enough so it doesn't shake the lathe when turning.Not having turned more than two bowls you should investigate further anything I relate to you on bowl turning.I would try to turn bowl blanks at 200 rpms until they are round.You'll know for sure when it's round, the lathe will stop bouncing around.Weigh your lathe down by adding a low shelf to the frame and sandbags on the shelf.This helps in spindle turning too.You can probably add a larger single wooden pulley to the cone to slow the speed down.

   As a matter of fact my cone pulley is three maple blocks glued together,bandsawed to size and turned to finish size on the lathe.I turned the spindle by using the faceplate to hold a wood disk that acted as a pulley and a belt to the motor pulley.Worked well ,only slipped off the disk a half dozen times until the maple cone pulley was done.Originally I was going to buy a pulley.The cost of a step pulley was $45.00 , the cost of having a machine shop bore it to 25mm was $70.00.I could not find a cone pulley with the correct bore, hence buying one close and having it bored out.The maple pulley works great, been on the lathe about 10 years or so.

   If the motor shaft is long enough, you can add a wooden pulley,

   Hopefully the old motor will hold up, I have had decent luck with old appliance motors.Hold off on chucks and expensive accessories, you need a basic spindle turning set which usually contains the following.Roughing gouge,parting tool,skew,3/8" gouge  and a 1/2" scraper.I almost never use a scraper, the roughing gouge when sharp can also do finishing cuts.I prefer a straight parting tool compared to the diamond point.The diamond point helps to prevent tool binding in a narrow groove.The skew will be the hardest to learn how to use properly. If you are familiar with using handplanes ,then think of the skew as a plane.The book,clubs.and mostly practice will get you up to speed much quicker than you may think.

   Good luck with your lathe , Mike

1. 
   Scag_man | Jan 22, 2009 06:03pm | #8

   Mike...excellent tips and thank you very much.  I loved your idea about the maple pullies and that's exactly how I'll handle it.  I never buy something I can make (and making is always more fun than buying).  I was concerned about the motor speed, but your solutions and verification of the correct speeds have put me back on track.

   Regarding the vibration, my lathe bench plans include two 45 lb steel weightlifting plates mounted in the bottom.  That should provide a solid low-center-of-gravity base.  Now that I'm in my 40's, I'm finding more and more plates in storage then on the barbell anyway :-)

   Thanks again for all your assistance!

    

5. 
   bill5335 | Jan 24, 2009 05:58am | #9

   I found a 1" skew chisel and a 1/2" gouge at a garage sale for a buck. Threw away the handles and turned new ones.  It's not the same quality as the newer tools (with high speed steel) but they still work. It might be a good way to get some confidence before buying a higher quality set. You will certainly get more practice with sharpening.

    

   Good luck,

    

   Bill