I am a novice turner. I have read a variety of postings and expert opinions on the subject of turning green vs seasoned wood. There seems to be no consensus.
What I am turning right now is small boxes with lids, pencil boxes, and bowls (which I make mostly into squat boxes rather than the more common salad bowl shape. Some of the wood blanks I’ve bought are green (they have wax on the ends in any case) and some are seasoned (no wax on the ends). I haven’t noticed any difference in the turning characteristics of the two types of woods.
I have two general questions.
1] If you turn green wood into any of the shapes I mentioned above and then immediately apply a finish (like Myland’s or Behlan’s), will the finished product warp or crack? How long will it take for the warpage or cracks to appear?
2] Are any of the shapes I mentioned above more (or less) subject to cracks or warpage?
Replies
Dear Boss Hog,
Green wood will behave very differently from seasoned wood. The green stuff turns more easily, as a rule, with much less dust. As you turn, you release moisture--you get wet.
Green wood will shrink, distort, and crack as it dries. Because you've taken a big hunk of tree and converted it into a relatively thin-walled object, it will dry faster than it would if it had remained a hunk of tree. So, when turning green, it's important to keep the wall thicknesses uniform; if you don't it won't dry uniformly and so will likely crack or warp. Also, don't turn green wood to the final thickness you want, unless you're trying for some special arty effect. leave the wood relatively thick--an inch or more on a bowl, for example. Store the green turning inside several paper bags placed one inside the other, to help moderate the loss of moisture. After a few weeks, remove the bowl and finish turning it.
Hope this helps,
David Heim
Managing Editor
FineWoodworking.com
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