Replies

1. 
   Wingdoctor | Dec 17, 2008 03:24am | #1

   You do not describe what you will make out of this piece of acrylic, but from the size I would guess a bowl shape perhaps. I have not turned a bowl, or any hollow form, from acrylic, but I have made many pens from acrylic material.

   The speed should not be real high, probably in the 400 to 700 rpm range I am guessing. Fast enough to get a clean cut and not so fast as to cause the acrylic to soften. Experiment. It is best to take thin shavings as heavy tool pressure can cause pieces to chip out. The most important thing to watch is sharpness. The tools must be very sharp to cut cleanly. I usually use a gently rounded gouge; or a fingernail ground gouge used at a low angle to the axis. Again, experiment to see what works best with the tools you are using. I also sometimes use a skew chisel.

   Progressive sanding ending with Micro surface sanding papers for polishing turnings will work to bring the luster to a glass appearance. These start at 1500 and go to 12000 grit. Again standard acrylic pen finishing supplies. I usually finish with Renaissance Wax.

   I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any additional questions.

   Bruce

   "A man's got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry Calahan
2. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 17, 2008 05:51am | #2

   Paul,

   I don't find much of a difference between turning hard exotic woods and acrylics (pens). The only thing to watch with acrylic is that it melts. Use water when you sand to keep things cool. If your lathe has a steel bed, it would be wise to cover it somehow to prevent rust.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
   (soon to be www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

3. 
   SawdustSteve | Dec 18, 2008 05:34am | #3

   I'd sharpen up my scraper lathe set and have a go at it. Since plastic does not really have the cutting characteristics of wood, you can't really use a skew cutting technique. Depending on the particular blend of plastic, it may be a bit 'grabby', so lots of slow cuts instead of trying to remove lots of material at one time. Remember, if you get the plastic too hot, it will burn and then melt. Finish with wet/dry sandpaper used wet and slowly work up through the various grits. I've used jewlers rouge and whiting on a buffing wheel to polish plastic, so you should be able to put these polishes on a damp rag and apply it to the spinning plastic for a final polish. I don't know if it's still available, but auto centers used to sell a (thick) liquid to clean/polish the plastic windows on old convertibles. It should work.
   You may also want to check your library for craft books on acrylic plastics.
   SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)

1. 
   UnclePablo | Dec 20, 2008 03:24pm | #4

   Bruce,Chris,and Steve,
   Thanks for the advice. I'm jumping in with both feet.-Paul