Replies

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Jul 17, 2001 07:55pm | #1

   *
   Well Charles, I guess I'll wade in. First off, IMHO, tung oil is a poor choice for the finish on a cutting board as is Oak for the material.

   Oak, especially Red Oak, has an open grain that can pose bacteria problems. While, by law, finishes when dry are supposed to be non-toxic, I still would prefer not to have bits of finish in my salads. Mineral oil is the preferred finish for cutting boards and butcher blocks.

   Having said that, I have been extremely satisfied with MinWax Wipe On Poly and have not found it to have a "plastic" look, in fact quite the opposite. If it were a kitchen table that I was commissioned to do, that is the finish I would use. FWIW.

   Dano

1. 
   Dave_Arbuckle | Jul 17, 2001 08:51pm | #2

   *Dano, it is a kitchen table. "Butcher block" doesn't mean anything any more, it is a construction technique. Most people who refer to butcher block are talking about cutting (i.e. narrow) board glueups anyway. ;-)Charles, if your polyurethane varnish looks like plastic, you either are applying it too thickly, or you aren't rubbing it out afterward.Dave

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Jul 17, 2001 10:47pm | #3

   *Dave,I know it is a kitchen table, reread my original post.;)Dano

1. 
   Dave_Arbuckle | Jul 17, 2001 11:37pm | #4

   *Dano, your first two paragraphs are concerned with butcher blocks... ;-)Funny thing is, we agree on the answer. :-DDave

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Jul 18, 2001 02:01am | #5

   *Dave,Yes, since Charles did a "test" by making a cutting board first, I thought I would address that issue first.b :)Do we everi disagree on anything?b ;)Dano

2. 
   Dave_Arbuckle | Jul 18, 2001 06:06am | #6

   *Yeah. We just don't know what yet. ;-DDave

3. 
   Charles_Hohenberg | Jul 21, 2001 06:00pm | #7

   *Thanks guys, a unanamous recommendation is hard to ignore! I will try again with MinWax poly, wiping it on and and off again with extra care. Charles

4. 
   Dave_Arbuckle | Jul 21, 2001 06:12pm | #8

   *Just to make sure you didn't misunderstand, Charles.I wrote: "you either are applying it too thickly, or you aren't rubbing it out afterward"That is not to say you wipe it on and then right back off. The way I work with products like this is:1) Wipe on a coat, thinly. Trying to lay a thick coat on is a mistake.2) Allow the coat to dry, or wait for the recoat window listed on the packaging.3) Apply enough coats so I'm satisfied with the thickness. If anywhere along here some dust is picked up in the finish, I knock it back off with either a high grit sandpaper wielded very lightly, or a ScotchBrite (artificial steel wool) pad4) Now, rub out. Rubbing out removes the nasty plasticky look and feel. Depending on what level of shine you want, and how unlevel the finish is, any or all of sandpaper, artificial steel wool, rubbing stone powder like pumice, or rubout compound (like used in auto finishing) can be used. I would not recommend steel wool be used on Oak.Sorry for the book, but I hope you get good results.Dave

5. 
   Charles_Hohenberg | Jul 23, 2001 04:13pm | #9

   *Thanks Dave! Just as you said, after finishing the last wipe on coat, with a glossy finish, a light polish with fine Scotch Brite gave me the satin finish I was looking for.Thanks a lot for your thoughtful response.Charles

6. 
   Dave_Arbuckle | Jul 23, 2001 06:22pm | #10

   *Outasight. You are very welcome.Dave

7. 
   Suzanne_Burd | Aug 07, 2001 05:27am | #11

   *I just acquired an antique maple bedroom suite from my mother in law which is very dry and needs some TLC. She said she has been using Pledge for 50+ years, but I'm wondering what other substance I can put on it to protect and beautify it. Tung, danish or lemon oil? Something else?

8. 
   Gretchen_ | Aug 07, 2001 01:29pm | #12

   *Try Howard's Restor-a-Finish for a quick fix. You will need to strip and refinish totally for a more permanent fix. You might clean the surface well first by making a solution of several TBS of mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil in a quart of very hot water. Use a piece of terry towel to scrub. Wipe dry. Then try the Howard's. It is pretty readily available now--maybe Home Depot or in antique shops or malls.

9. 
   Suzanne_Burd | Aug 08, 2001 05:23am | #13

   *thanks for the tip. I've got some restor a finish that I use sparingly and have always thought that oil was the best thing for wood. Am I being too old fashioned??