To the assemblage,
Is it possible to add dyes or tint (such as Transtint) to pure Tung oil? Along the same line, is it possible to add the same type of product to Waterlox or other polymerized tung oil based finishes?
Thanks in advance for you help!
Tony Z.
Replies
Yes, you can add TransTint to pure tung oil (or to BLO). Whether you can add it to Waterlox is a bit iffy. Waterlox isn't a polymerized tung oil, it is a varnish. The Original/Sealer is relatively low solids, high thinner and TransTint warns that it doesn't work with highly thinned oil based products. I don't know what side of the line that Waterlox would fall. The Satin has more solids content and the Gloss quite a bit more, and I don't know whether what amount of thinner costitues "highly thinned". But it can be added to full strength varnish. To do so first mix the TransTint with acetone (1:4 ratio) and then add to the varnish.
Uh, maybe I missed it but, why would you want to?
Doug M
You might want to make a subtle color shift while using a wipe on oil finish. It would likely show off figure to a greater degree than using just the plain oil. But, in my opinion beyond a very subtle shift, particularly if dye were added to a varnish product, there would be run a major risk of getting an uneven or streaky color. It would be hard to get something as bad as Polyshades, but that's the direction that one would be heading past more than very subtle tinting.
Personally, for hand applied finishes, I am definately of the opinion that it is best to keep coloring steps separate from sealing and top coating. Much more control is available that way. Toners are more useful if spraying capabilities are available.
Steve and Doug,
This isn't something I'm planning on doing! Rather, I've used tung oil for the first time several months ago, (pure with nothing else) on cherry and I'm pleased with the results.
Earlier today, during my morning constitutional, while perusing finishing supplies in Woodcraft and Lee Valley catalogs, I noticed the write-up on Transtint dyes and Waterlox products (I have never used either products) and decided to post a question here to hear some opinions.
Incidentally, I may try a polymerized tung oil product as the write-ups claim these products will give a deeper, initial color than pure tung oil will. But then again, I may just lay the cherry out in the sun for a few days before assembling for the table I'm currently working on!
Thanks for your earlier replies!
Tony Z.
TonyZ,I used transtint and applied Waterlox Original two hours later, about half the color was removed. The finish was great and my wife loved the color...I had no way of matching that color again,,sigh
This is a problem with using TransTint as a dye. It dissolves in a wide range of solvents, so just about any top coat can redissolve it, creating the lifting you observed. BEst solution is to use a water soluble powdered dye, It only dissolves very well in water, so using an oil based finish over it will have only a very minor effect on the dye.
Steve,Thanks, I wasn't aware of the difference between the powdered stuff and trans tint. Since that first issue with the Waterlox, I've always waited 24 hours after applying the trans tint and no re-occurrence that I can detect. I would like to try the powdered stuff once I work of my investment in trans tint a bit more. Lately I been throwing shellac over the TT, then gel stain and finally varnish.
Yeah I have only used Tung oil a few times and only used Transtints once. I did have the lift issue (tung over tint) but being as I had run a test and knew what was going to happen and what color I would end up with I did not have an issue.
I would be interested in knowing what others use in plans of transtints. I am not sure I would like to use then under something like Shelac, as I think that may make a mess. But I have not tried it.
This thread has got me thinking about doing Cherry with only tung oil over it. Does that come out well? I have a fireplace and book cases to do in a library that I was thinking I would like to keep a bit lighter then the dark cherry/mehogany look or walnut.
Doug M
Pure tung oil is really a pretty bad finish. It takes a very long time to cure--perhaps 3-4 days between coats, and requires 4 - 6 coats to achieve an even satin sheen. At the end of that day, you have a finish that is only slight lighter in color than linseed oil, and only a miniscule amount more water resistant. If you try to rush applying tung oil, occasionally you get a cloudy white "blush" with the only solution being stripping and starting over.
That's why many manufacturer's sell tung oil finish--they would get too many complaints from the real stuff. Minwax and others sell an oil/varnish mix that needs to be thoroughly wiped dry of any excess to avoid building a film. Formsby sells a wiping varnish, which can be allowed to build a film.
So in general I strongly recommend oil/varnish mixes for an oil finish appearance. It will look almost exactly the same, but will be more water resistant and have a longer life between needing refreshing.
As far as alternatives to TransTints, Jeff Jewitt also sells TransFast which are the powdered dyes. Other powdered dyes are made by W.E. Lockwood in a very wide range of colors. Woodworkers Supply sells these under their J.E. Moser house brand. Highland Woodworking sells dyes by Asti, including a line of dye specifically formulated to "take" inside of the pores on woods llike oak and ash where the waxy surface inside the pores "resists" dye.
Edited 8/22/2008 5:33 pm ET by SteveSchoene
Tony,
Deft sells their line of Danish Oils in various colours. Dark walnut, fruitwood, etc.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
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