TS – Proper placement of a featherboard
What is the proper featherboard setup on a tablesaw top?
What is the proper featherboard setup on a tablesaw top?
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialGet instant access to over 100 digital plans available only to UNLIMITED members. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building!
Become an UNLIMITED member and get it all: searchable online archive of every issue, how-to videos, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking digital series, print magazine, e-newsletter, and more.
Get complete site access to video workshops, digital plans library, online archive, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
If using a featherboard for ripping with the fence, you should set the featherboard up so it is ahead of the blade. You don't want the pressure to close the kerf and pinch against the blade. On a saw, you wouldn't want a featherboard on the outfeed end of the blade. You have to be careful that the pressure on the work is not great enough to push the fence as you feed the stock. Depending on the type of featherboard you are using, you may have to reset it if the boards vary in width. Many featherboards have enough flexibility to accommodate variances up to 1/8" but a stiff featherboard may not and could transfer enough pressure to move the fence, as you feed the board. This can be more of an issue with a front locking only style fence but enough force can move any fence. If the board is feeding hard, stop and re-set.
If you are setting up the featherboard on the fence, to act as a hold down, you can put one or more just about anywhere. The issue is keeping them out of the way. Hold downs on a fence, "Board Buddies" and other such devices can interfere with using a push stick, on smaller width stock.
Featherboards can also be used on shapers and router tables. Since these cutters don't often completely remove material like a saw kerf, their set up can be before, on, and/or after the cutter. If you set up on or close to the cutter, make sure there isn't a large cutout in the fence, around the bit, where the work could be forced in deeper, causing a snipe.
Shop made featherboards can be constructed to match your saw table or other machine. This allows you to get some good holding clamps on it. It can have enough flexibility to accommodate some minor differences in board width. With solid attachment and proper construction, it also serves as an anti-kickback device. Mine will allow me to let go of a board. I can walk around to the outfeed side of the saw or start feeding another board, end to end. This is particularly handy with small width pieces, and fence hold downs, where the work can't be pushed through with a push stick.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled