I picked up an older (60’s?) Delta 37-220 6″ jointer. It’s in nice shape but sadly the tables are not parallel–the ends are lower than the middle. The problem is very slight but it is enough to cause concave jointing. Is this worth repairing? From what little I know, I would need to remove the cutterhead and remove the machine from the stand and take it to someone with a surface grinder. There does not appear to be any DIY adjustment for this, although admittedly I have not looked closely.
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Replies
i have the same jointer, just bought it actually, and its an easy fix, you justhave to think outside the box a little
think about shimming the outfeed table only, flat with the infeed table, after all thats all that matters
get some brass shimstock and have at it, again outfeed side only, you'll rarely move it anyway
Are you talking about shimming the dovetailed ways? There is virtually no play... there's a little bit, there are a couple of small setscrews on the back that might loosen to allow more. Seems like any improvement would be fairly random.
well its what it did on my 4 inch machine, worked great, my 37-220 is perfectly aligned
it doesnt take much shimming to level the tops
If you mean that the table is straight but sags at the end, you can shim the bottom of the dovetail ways equal to the amount of sag. If you are saying the table itself is warped on the end, try setting it on 2x4, cantilever the warped end of the table and jump on that end, or hammer it with a block of wood and a 5 pound sledge.
Let it sit overnight, and check it with a straightedge in the a.m. Do it again if necessary until you get it within tolerances.
This procedure, I was told works most of the time, as the molecules do react to the bending and supposedly strengthen the metal. Anyway it's cheaper than having the thing lapped flat.
Good luck.
David,
Check each table separately to determine if they are flat. If they are, you're in tall cotton!
Problem with jointers is that the tables need to be not only parallel, they must be co-planar. Shims will work. It takes a bit of patience but good results are very obtainable. You may even be able to adjust the tightness on the dovetail ways and get your jointer true without the use of shims. This is especially true if the infeed table has drooped slightly. Small adjustments make a big difference, go slow and be careful.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND a book by John White (a regular poster here) called "Care and Repair of shop Machines". If you have several ww'ing machines the book is well worth the price!!! No, I don't get a "kick back" LOL.
Best of luck,
Mack
"Close enough for government work=measured with a micrometer, marked with chalk and cut with an axe"
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