I’m making several 3/4″ walnut plywood doors with 1/8″ edgebanding. Any ideas about the best way to trim the edgebanding?
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Replies
I assume that your edgebanding is solid wood rather than the iron on type.
When I use solid wood to edge plywood, I make it slightly wider than the plywood, attach it so it's slightly proud of the plywood surface, then use a hand scraper to bring it flush. It's a little time consuming, but worth the effort. Trying to sand it flush can work, but you can easily over sand the plywood veneer and the next ply can be seen in the finished piece.
For years I used a hand plane followed with a scraper. This is not a bad way to spend some time but it WILL take time. I've lost track of the hours spent on this task... it can be formidable. Nowadays I first use a router mounted onto a custom ply base to take off all but a whisker. The base has a simple rabbet on the business edge with the flat bottom bit coming through right at the step. The step is necessary to allow clearance over the untrimmed lipping. You will want to move the router from right to left, this will insure the bit is cutting into the edge. Otherwise some split-out will occur. My base is extra long on the panel side to insure that I can keep it flat always. I've attached a simple handle to assure I hold it there and to aid in secure movement. Adjust the bit height as low as you dare without cutting into the panel stock.
Alternatively, there are lipping planers made to do exactly what you wish. Bring money.
A good choice. Simple and using existing tools. One can have the router bit vertical or horizontally oriented. I find less tear out having the tip perpindicular to the panel and banding.
Festool MFK 700 router will work both ways. Not suggesting one buys it but it can be duplicated in applications.]
http://www.festoolusa.com/ProductDetails.aspx?id=4&prodid=574288
My other option is a pattern cutting fence on the table saw. Very fast and accurate. A pattern fence is an overlooked technique and I rarely see it even mentioned, even with the redundancy of articles in the hobby mags.
That Festool trim router certainly looks like a nice tool. But it won't hold the bit in a vertical manner to emulate a machinist end mill cutter as my method does. There's nothing wrong with using a regular flush trim bit, but I've always found them prone to chip-out unless a climb cut is used. Even then, some chipping can occur. The end mill approach creates no chipping as long as movement is from right to left. If one moves from left to right..... well, let's just say that he/she will be learning how to patch edging. Rick, I don't understand the table saw pattern approach at all. Can you please add some explanation. Serges method solves the wobble issue as does the Festool, but it's slow to set up. When I've got a stack of panels to do I want it done in a hurry. And, I do some quite large panels.. like 3-4 feet wide and 8 feet long. Working these on edge is awkward to say the least.
A slight add on to the Festool base will certainly work as the MFK 700 can be mounted vertically and a base with a groove will certainly emulate what you are describing at least as much as I can understand it without a picture. I use something like Pats offset base but with more mass to compensate for the router so it doesn't tilt on me.
http://www.patwarner.com/vertical_trim_subbase.html
http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/081/videos/table-saw-pattern-cutting/
The table saw pattern cutting technique works well for trimming banding on shelves, etc if you make the pattern follower part more of a box instead of a thin piece to support the work better.
According to The Woodwhisperer, the Festool trim router is specially designed to be able to trim edge banding. There's supposedly an adjustment for a slight angle on the router bit that will allow one to trim without marring the veneer.Marc discussed it on one of his Podcasts, I can't remember which episode though.
I bought the Festool trim router with trimming edging in mind but found it wasn't really as accurate as described. There is a bit of flex in the base mount which makes the fine adjustment almost worthless since a little pressure the wrong way and it cuts to deep in both vertical and horizontal modes. It also is designed to only take fairly small bits, especially in the horizontal position. The cutting portion of the router bit allowable in the base design makes trimming anything over about 3/8" wide edging difficult. Mine went back to the store and I bought a Domino instead; now that is a great tool.
Bob
Your post saved a few folks a lot of money. For what its worth here is what I use to trim wide edging. I think the idea came from Taunton..not sure as I made it a while ago. Works very well indeed.Cheers,Peter
Better life through Zoodles and poutine...
Your jig is more or less exactly what I use and tried to describe way back in this discussion. Thanks for posting the photo. What is the purpose of the "V" shaped bottom? Mine is simply straight across. I also use that Festool model router. It's great for this task.
The "V" helps when coming to a corner. Hard to describe.Cheers,Peter
Better life through Zoodles and poutine...
"The "V" helps when coming to a corner"Of course. I usually trim edges before applying trim to adjacent ones. But this is often not very time efficient. I think I'll give your jig a try. This could make a rather onerous task a little less so.
Hi,
Since I'm planning to do the same kind of doors, let me share this tip I saved a while ago for that particular task.
"After I’ve added solid wood edges to plywood and need to trim them, I use a router with a flush trim bit. To keep the router from wobbling on the 3/4" edge or having to make and store some kind of jig to balance the router, I simply do two or more at a time. As illustrated, I clamp the plywood pieces onto my tablesaw fence with a spacer piece of scrapwood between each pair. In this way, the router sits on at least 2-1/4" of edge. To stabilize wider pieces, I clamp an additional spacer near the top. If the plywood is too large to clamp securely to the fence, I clamp it directly to the table and work sideways."
See related draft attached.
Best,
Serge
- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org moving to
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com
I use a lam trimmer with a flush-trim bit and a support that I clamp on the piece. I usually do 5/16" banding and then trim it down to 1/4" or thinner. Makes squaring up doors easier. Here's a apic or two. Use a climb cut to stop tearout and splintering, especially in oak or any work with a lot of grain directional changes.
I also enclosed a pic of the cauls I use for banding. Makes it a lot easier.
My email notifications don't work here or on BT, so if you have any questions, be patient and I'll check back.
This is the best idea I've seen so far. It's far more stable than balancing a router on the edge of the stock (eg. harder to goof up).
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip040102ws.html
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Or on a router table. OK so it has to be a nice table surface so you do not scratch the work. If I use one of my 'junk' tables I just but the work on a 1/4 or 1/2 ind hunk of MDF.
I use a block plane and sand,no problem.
I did the lid of this box thus,.
Hey Cicero,
Showing your box by mistake, is it a way to show off ? (just kidding)
Nice work ! Looks like walnut.
Best,
Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org moving to
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com
Hi Bri,
To be honest I am a bit of a show off,which of us isn't?
At the same time I think a pic is better than a thousand words.
I apply my clashing(edgebanding)with the aid of biscuits,then as I say the the old block plane and sanding method seems to work.
Morning Cicero,
You made me realize that we, woodworkers, are on the show off side for sure. See my new tool ? See my the new furniture I just made ? Yes we are showing off !
Best,
Serge
- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org moving to
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com
In that case........
You really show off ! Nice work though and nice professionnal shine. Congratulations. The table is also beautiful. I like the beads on the apron, and the color. Did you make it ? And the chairs ? The sideboard seems to be build-in ? Is it your own work ?
Oops ! I'm far from the edge banding !
Best,
Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org moving to
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com
I did indeed make all the furniture,apart from chairs,never had a go at them.
To be honest I copied the cock beads from a french antique table I saw in a shop and have used it ever since.
What good taste you have :<)
Great work. And to be honest also, I saved your photo of the table to copy the cock beads when needed. So my table will be a copy of a copy of a french antique. It won't be an antique but sure have a confusing story !
Since antiques are so rare and beautiful, we don't have any other choice than copying to pass their beauty to the next generations.
Best,
Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org moving to
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com
Sorry all,this shows it better........
edge tape or solid banding is easily trimmed flush with a block plane carefuly sharpened and tuned, i've done miles of it both iron on tape and 1/4 inch solid material
routering a 32nd off edgebanding on a 150 buck piece of plywood sounds like a disaster waiting to happen, and the gentle trimming by hand is most gratifying
my blockplane is nothing special, an elderly stanley 9 1/2, just a fiv e buck fleamarket special, very finely tuned and sharpened and is used for nothing else
I've done thousands of feet of HW banding ranging from 1/8" to 1/2" with a lam trimmer with a FT bit. I've blown out banding, but it's no problem to rip it off off and re-caul the mistake.
The mistake people make is sanding through the veneer of the ply. With a good sharp FT bit there should be little sanding, AFTER you round it off.
IMHO, iron on is sheet and should be left for Wal-Mart furniture and cabs. A 1/4" banding with a 1/8" radius preserves the finish, and gives a nice feel to the finished product.
i have to agree, i despise iron on banding, much prefer 1/8 or 1/4 solid, but building cabinets for a living with many shelves and partitions, iron on is king, and done correctly, trimmed perfectly, its great stuff in its place
custom builtins? yes solid wood banding is the king, trimmedwith what ever tool you are comfortable with, a small profile and voila
i prefer to trim by hand with my little stanly block plane, its fast easy and cheap(kinda like me!!)
everybody has their own way, mine works for me
I've had the stuff react to different finishes and delam more than once. Just like iron-on veneer, not very durable. Unless you have a hot-glue-table set up.
Never had a call-back on a glue on.
The lam trimmer isn't hard. Goes fast, but noisier than the plane....
Edited 9/3/2008 7:20 pm by TomT226
I have found that a block plane works very well
Here are links to two more ideas.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopArticle.aspx?id=3471
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDF/011177068.pdf
The first is from FWW #150, the second from #177. To access the second link, you'll need a subscription to the website.
-- Russ
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