Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 08, 2009 04:40pm | #1

   The Maloof mix is basically an oil/varnish mix.  As such it is a finish that is meant as an in-the-wood finish, and doesn't accumulate a film on the surface.  Consequently, whether the varnish component has urethane resin in it is of no consequence. 

   I can't really comment on the Varnish Oil other than to note that people on forums such as this either love it or hate it.  It didn't fair well on the FWW article testing wipe on finishes, but I'm sorry to say the article had plenty of "issues" about how the tests were conducted. 

2. 
   boilerbay | May 08, 2009 04:53pm | #2

   Timber,

   I have used and do use both. I tend to use T&T for less service oriented items but where surface use is a more constant, I use the Maloof formula because of the residual hardness of the Tung oil. I also use shellac over multiple coats of hot BLO for certain other areas and where clarity of a wood may be of more importance.

   T&T needs to be really warm to get a good flow. I don't heat the Maloof mix (but I suppose you could) as I seldom use it without first doing a double hot layer of blo by itself. (I prefer to let just the blo bring out the grain as opposed to the Mallof mix alone where the tung seals any further depth, Although there are those who will say that a double coat of blo is redundant and you gain nothing - their opinion.)

   Also, my perception only, the T&T is a clearer product in the can but appears more yellow on lighter softer woods. I know it's a "go to" product in the cherry shaker world but I would test all first. In T&T , I tend to stop at 2-3 coats whereas I will use 4-5 coats of the blo/tung/varnish mix. The smell of all products while drying down gets worse with age- mine!

   All of this really depends on your production schedule and if you can afford the time for the different techniques. One off is one thing but five copies is something else and all together a different fettle of kish!

   Boiler

   
   

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   Edited 5/8/2009 9:56 am by boilerbay

1. 
   flairwoodworks | May 09, 2009 06:39am | #3

   Say, do you have a recipe for Sam's finish? In his book, he is imprecise - one handful of wax, one part urethane, one part tung oil, if my memory serves correct. Of course, one handful of wax and 1 pint of the others would be very different than one handful of wax and one gallon of the others...Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com and now http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   Timberwerks | May 09, 2009 03:46pm | #4

   I would think these are mixed to make a quart at a time.

    

   Wax blend:

   Mix 2 handfuls of shredded beeswax to equal parts of boiled linseed oil and raw tung oil. Heat the mixture in a double-boiler on an electric hotplate just until the wax melts. Due to the volatile nature of the ingredients, brew your mixture outdoors. When cooled, the mixture should have the consistency of heavy cream.

   Or varnish blend: 

   Mix equal parts of the following:

   Boiled Linseed Oil

   Raw Tung oil 

   Semi-Gloss urethene varnish

   Or

   Mix equal parts of the following:

   Thinner. Use paint thinner, mineral spirits, turpentine

   Varnish. Virtually any quality varnish will do.

   Oil. Use either boiled linseed oil or raw tung oil.

    

   Timberwerks Studio Blog 

   Timberwerks On Twitter

    

    

   Edited 5/9/2009 8:50 am by Timberwerks

   Edited 5/9/2009 8:56 am by Timberwerks

2. 
   boilerbay | May 09, 2009 05:20pm | #5

   FlairThe one I've been using for years is:Equal parts1 Raw, pure Tung Oil (100% pure)
   2 Boiled Linseed Oil
   3 Originally Alkyd Varnish , now polyurethane-alki is getting harder to find where I am.The Wax - I don't use much but it's:
   50%- linseed oil, 50% - pure tung oil and a 2 handfuls of shaved bees wax. Less or more. Pint or gallon -enough so the entire volume has the consistency of heavy cream. Melt slowly in a double boiler then use hot for 3 - 4 applications, (Maloof's instructions). I use 2-3 coats. Boiler

1. 
   flairwoodworks | May 09, 2009 08:33pm | #6

   Boiler & Timberwerx,Thanks for the clarification. The part that I missed was the target consistency - heavy cream.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com and now http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

3. 
   WillGeorge | May 13, 2009 04:18am | #8

   one handful of wax, one part urethane, one part tung oil, if my memory serves correct. Of course, one handful of wax and 1 pint of the others would be very different than one handful of wax and one gallon of the others...

   LOL.. I loved the post..

   Reminds me of my Wife's Home made Chicken Soup.. My children and I just loved it. My daughters and I have tried to make it taste the same without success!

   Then my youngest, that 'looks just like her Mom' came up with... 'Mom always cut herself cutting up the chicken.. Maybe it was the blood.. She was serious...

   I think she had a point not to be overlooked!

   Who know what the perfect receipe is?

   Like some man/woman making anything and you just loved it. You ask fer' the receipe and then you tell you 'And hand full of this and that'....

   Edited 5/12/2009 9:19 pm by WillGeorge

3. 
   BossCrunk | May 10, 2009 02:45pm | #7

   1/3 turps, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 Pratt & Lambert 38 Clear Alkyd Gloss Varnish.

   Also see Roland Johnson article where he uses Tung oil and also adds some Japan drier.

   The key to the whole thing is the P&L varnish - none better IMO.

   Read the article, it's a good 'un.

    

   
   

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   Edited 5/10/2009 7:46 am ET by BossCrunk

4. 
   dkellernc | May 13, 2009 10:24pm | #9

   "Between Tried & True varnish oil and the Maloof mix is one more protective than the other?"

   That depends - greatly - on how many coats you use.  They are quite different products from the standpoint of their chemical composition.  The Tried and True is a very traditional film-forming varnish based on tree resin (in this case, pinus species).  The Maloof blend is (as noted) a combo of tung oil and polyurethane.

   Generally speaking, the Maloof blend will render a more durable topcoat because the polyurethane will not penetrate very far into the wood and will build a poly topcoat.  But that's only if you use a lot of coats - on the order of 6 to 10.  The T&T varnish component is fairly soft, and doesn't have the resistance to alkaline/acid spills and solvent the way that polyurethane does.  However, it will build a film on the surface much more quickly, in my experience, than will a thinned varnish blend like Maloof's or Watco's "Danish Oil".

   For an "occasional" table, though (like a side table), it shouldn't matter.  Most of the time, I simply use BLO and wax.

   For a heavy-use table, I prefer a much harder film than polyurethane - laquer, alkyd varnish, or shellac (for the teetotalers).  Poly, in my experience, just scratches way too easily, even after a prolonged curing time helped along by gentle heating.