We are repairing the railing of our sun deck, which requires some 2x6s. We bought two 20-footers and two 14-footers. We decided to avoid the delivery charge and bring them home ourselves on the roof rack of our Toyota Highlander.
Fortunately, we had proper tie-downs (no twine!), but still we were very nervous about the load. I don’t think that the roof rack’s load capacity was exceeded, but there was a lot of flex in it. From inside, you could see the roof-mounted dome light moving up and down when we hit a bump in the road. I would not even consider doing this again without building some souped-up roof rack. How do you transport stock too long to put inside the vehicle?
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
– Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. – Albert Schweitzer
Replies
Chris,
Mini Van Option
For such items I do not have far to go so can usually hang it out the back end and passenger window of my Windstar. If I have a lot, I can and have hauled up to 16ft 2 X 6 hanging out of the rear hatch.
With your roof mount approach, I would be very concerned about your liability if the load came loose. Not a pleasant thought at all.
Good Neighbour Option
I am fortunate to have a neighbor who has 2 - 3/4 Ton trucks. One is always in the yard if I need it.
Trailer Option
If you do a lot of this type of hauling, you might consider a small utility trailer. Every so often Can Tire or Wal Mart have great sales.
Side Rack Option
If you do this often, consider getting a rack built that utilizes your front and rear bumper. This would give you good support along the full length of the vehicle and be much safer than the roof rack.
Don
How do you transport stock too long to put inside the vehicle?
Pay the delivery charge. Every year, thousands of people are hurt or killed because someone's load was not properly secured. Sorry, Chris, but the top of a highlander is not the way to transport goods. Best way in this case would have been to use a 16 ft trailer with 4 ft hanging off the back, properly flagged, of course.
Lee
Lee,
Yes, I now realize that that was not the way to go. We putted home at no more than 50km/h safely.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Carrying long lumber on the roof rack isn't a good idea. In part because most of the factory racks are so weak they are almost purely decorative. The other issue is there is no front stop, and in a severe frontal impact they become battering rams.
The minivan will handle 4X8 sheet goods, etc. with the back seats pulled out, and actually has a higher load rating than a 1/2-ton truck. I bought a trailer with a 4X10 bed, that the front and back can be dropped on, to give a 4X14 bed, so I can haul longer stuff, and firewood when needed.
I used to rent trailers from U-haul, before I bought mine. They had 5X10 open utility trailers, for $15/half day.
Not like this.
View Image
I have a F150 with a hitch support.
View ImageI also made a light bar with brake lights on it. Even with that, I am always nervous that some knucklehead isn't going to pay attention. I've noticed when I'm carrying a long load people seem to think it's cart blanche to cut me off.
"I don't think that the roof rack's load capacity was exceeded"
You might have been darn close. The standard roof rack has only 100 to 150 lbs. That doesn't account for the moment arm of the wood bouncing up and down. The hitch extender is availble in a tall version. Then, at least you could support it at the front and back.
Anyway, glad you made it home safe.
Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
I've always liked the girl passed put in the VW. I would like to know what was made with those supplies.Until I need to make multiple trips of 10' a week I will probably stick with delivery and rental.
That is a great idea. I put a small trailer hitch on my camery and thought I would use a metal basket I bought, but the bottom scrapes the concrete on any bump or driving up a driveway. The basket is really worthless on my car. I need to sell it. Maybe I could rig up some kind of extension that rides higher up at the end. Tonight I'm going a few blocks down to pickup some plywood people have put out for trash. Throw a sleeping bag on top of the car and bring the tie-downs. I WILL get that plywood home!
For the last few years I have been carting long loads home, some as long as 26', on Scruffy (1991 Nissan PU) with this rig. I threw it together out of 2x6 and 1x10 scrap and a couple 1/2" bolts. The upper ends of the 2x6s were cut to have a 90 degree corner when it sits in the truck so the lumber nests better when stacked. If I were going to make another I would use narrower horizontal boards and add diagonal cross braces. Ratchet straps hold everything down tight.The load on the rack in the pictures is of steel bars 14' long that weighed a total of 450 pounds.
Now that right there is cool.
I have a Tacoma with the composite bed, and you can't get a rack for it. A rig like this may be just the ticket. And it collapses to boot!
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Glad you like it. It was thrown together in a morning with what was on hand and could be made lighter. Since I only needed it occasionally I didn't refine it. One welded of aluminum would be the ultimate but would be a tempting target for a metal thief (camouflage it by painting it black with fake rust and blisters). I always thought that a canoe or a kayak could be carried on it if a web sling or saddle were dropped in the "V". The only negative I have found is not being able to take anything bulky in the box at the same time but there is room under and beside for smaller things, so the plywood has to go on a second load.
That's a clever setup you've got yourself. Is there any worry of the front end of the load bouncing and hitting the front of the cab, near the windshield?Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
"Is there any worry of the front end of the load bouncing and hitting the front of the cab, near the windshield?"So far I have had my 36' Al extension ladder (18 or 19' long), 3x4" and 4x4"s (from pallets) up to 26' long and a lot of shorter lumber on it, and the 14' steel bars in the pictures. None have ever hit Scruffy's roof and if you are careful you won't club it when you unload it either.;) If I was to put a flexible load on top like moldings then I would take along a wide stiff board like a 2x6 and tie or tape the thinner to the stiff and then strap the works to the rack. For really narrow stuff nail 2 boards along their length to make a 'V' and lay the bundle inside. You could also make the rack taller if you were concerned about clearance.
To be safer transporting boards on a roof rack:Use webbing to tie the wood to the rack. It holds much better than rope.
Tie the front and back ends of the planks to the the bumpers and/or the towing eyes under the bumpers. This avoids the bouncing of the ends.Drive at below 50mph.The roof rack should be one of these made up of 2 separate bars. Forget the old-fashioned one piece racks made of 1/2" box section.Windsurfers are about 15' long and are routinely transported on roof racks.
Pay the delivery charge. To many times I seen nasty accidents where people transported wood, metal, gutters & etc of long lengths, having no idea on how to secure the load. Then losing it. They are lucky if they just lose it & not kill anyone. But, the potential of doing just that, IS THERE!
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled