Replies

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Apr 09, 2002 03:05am | #1

   Can't speak to the Delta,  but I went shopping for an inexpensive saw for my dad 3-4 years ago and ended up with the Ryobi - the most versitile of the lot - took most of an afternoon to set it up,  several adjustments to dial in - there was a part missing that the 800 number took care of expidiciously - cuts sweetly,  underpowered by what I'm used to,  but whaddu want for $350?  sliding cutoff is nice - I borrowed it for a while when I had a small production run to save resetting my saw all the time and enjoyed having it - - good luck,  DOUD

2. 
   NormInFujino | Apr 09, 2002 03:10am | #2

   I'm biased, and personally like the BT3000; I feel it's the best homeowner/hobbiest value for $400, but it's definitely unconventional and not considered "cool" by many, which is why Tools of the Trade called it "underrated." It is capable of high-quality work, though, if you take the time to understand its features and differences, including operation and adjustment of the sliding miter people.

   You may or may not like the sliding miter table; I personally like it and don't find it particularly hard to keep in adjustment, assuming you handle it with proper care, read the instructions, and pay attention to what you're doing. The SMT allows smoother and better support for crosscuts in front of the blade compared to the standard miter gage, and a standard miter-slot table is also available if desperately desired.

   I would rate the BT3000 high on versatility (sliding rails allow 30" rip to right and left of blade), dust collection, safety (Euro-style riving knife), rip fence, depth of cut (greatest for any 10" saw with possible exception of Makita 2703), and miter gage (longest standard fence, larger angle numbers).

   On the down side, it uses a universal motor, which is marginally louder than an induction motor, and some people feel it is less powerful than a comparable 1-1/2 HP induction motor; the motor uses brushes and it is not designed for extended continuous use, so if you're considering professional-level use of a tablesaw, I'd get some kind of cabinet saw with 3HP motor to begin with, and avoid contractor saws altogether. But that enters another price range entirely. In any event, the difference in behavior between induction and universal motors means that you have to pay a different kind of attention to motor sounds and feed rates. Although the BT3K's is a universal motor, it is not direct drive; it uses twin short multi-vee belts that drive the arbor more smoothly than conventional contractor-type saws, resulting in lower vibration (easily passes the nickel test out of the box). If you work in an unheated garage or car port like me, its aluminum construction is also an advantage during monsoon season ^o^ , and it also allows easier portability when necessary. The BT3000 also uses motor lift bearings (stainless steel shims) which give some people problems, although I think the problem is overstated and there are several simple fixes if it does occur.

   Needless to say, your mileage may vary (this goes with any saw). For more information, you might check out this Positive Review of BT3000, and this Negative Review of BT3000 (much of which I feel is misguided, but that's another story).

   To compare criticisms with those directed toward another entry-level contractor saw, see this message about User Comments about Jet Contractor Saw.

   In any event, I'd suggest you visit the Ryobi Forum and Sam Conder's BT3000 Jig and Fixture Site and ask actual owners what they think.