Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 06, 2002 08:05pm | #1

   Is there any chance that your sanding could have burnished the surface so that it doesn't absorb?  How big is the area you're trying to touch up?

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   westpest | Jun 07, 2002 01:00pm | #3

   Thanks for the reply, the area is about 450mm x 150 both sides of joint. To answer Alan's question also there was no glue applied. I sanded to 320 by hand but had to start with 120 to reduce lip of joint. I dont think that I sanded hard enough to burnish but I may have. As I am a novice in the use of Danish Oil perhaps you could advise if I have sanded to fine, I have read elswhere that 220 is fine enough but I always thought that smoother was better.

   Thanks for your time I have read a lot of your previous posts and am more than happy to accept advice from a woodworker who is also a "lady". (no insult or condecension intended)

   Dan

1. 
   dondownunder | Jun 07, 2002 02:34pm | #4

   Westpest,

   Apply Danish oil in the same fashion as you did originally & let father time do his thing. Jarrah will darken with exposure to light & the top will even up fairly quickly.

   Don

2. 
   forestgirl | Jun 07, 2002 07:33pm | #5

   Hi Dan, I never take exception when someone nice calls me a Lady!  :-)

   Here's the link to a thread named "Highest Sandpaper Grit".  I can't vouch for the efficacy of the theories presented there, but I think it's worth reading.  You might find #4 in the thread especially interesting.

   http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-knots&msg=5756.1

   I too am a relative novice in finishing, and have been looking for more info on using pre-mixed oil finishes such as Danish Oil.  I printed out the article at the following link and read through it last night.  Reading it from beginning to end gave me a much better understanding of how to get a good finish with Danish Oil and how to correct mistakes that I might make.  You'll need the Adobe Acrobat reader to view it.  (If you don't have Adobe, you can download it at http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep.html .

   Here's the article:  http://www.wwforum.com/faqs_articles/oil_finishes.pdfforestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   westpest | Jun 16, 2002 09:03am | #6

   Hi again

   Thanks for the threads, I have read with great interest and I will follow some of the advice. I have a rather rhetorical question but it is something that makes me wonder about all the sanding advice...when is for example, 180 paper 180 paper ?. If you use the paper for a little while and of course is wears, does it not then become..190/200/etc..etc. probably a stupid question but us aussies have teflon shoulders and the ridicule just slides off.."have a go mate"

   Dan

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 16, 2002 09:50am | #7

   Hi Dan!  Must admit, the more I read about sandpaper and such, the more amazed I am at how it's not simple.  Turns out there are several (2 or 3 main ones) systems of numbering sandpaper, lots of different backers and binders and coatings and such.  To vaguely answer your question though, I don't think that conversion would take place because the grit in your paper is not going to divide up into nice small(er) particles.  The grit in the higher #'d papers is relatively uniform and well-distributed.  The big grit in, say 100, paper is going to wear unevenly as you sand, not divide properly and re-distribute evenly.  With the goal of sanding being to produce a uniform suface, the worker needs to progressively sand with finer and finer grit, and if the sandpaper has a few of those big dudes coasting along, the gouges will be strikingly ugly.

   Some article I was reading recently (too sleepy to remember where) discussed a type of paper (or numbering system?) wherein the size of the particles was more uniform than in our sandpaper -- in other words, there was not as much of a range of particle sizes in one sheet of, again say 180 grit.

   Oh dear, entering stream of semi-consciousness.  Time to go to bed.  Nite :-)

   I don't remember if I suggested this before, but you might want to go to:

   http://www.homesteadfinishing.com

   and go to the abrasives section.  Jeff Jewitt is a well-known finisher who also, I think, owns Homestead Finishing.  There is some good info on their web site.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

   Edited 6/16/2002 2:51:47 AM ET by forest_girl

2. 
   Alan | Jun 06, 2002 10:39pm | #2

   Dan,

   Are these glued butt joints?  If so is it possible that the glue was drawn up through the end grain and sealed the wood close to the finish surface?

   Alan