Replies

1. 
   DavidKul | Dec 26, 2008 05:21pm | #1

   I use gel stains often. They really do help you yo get the effect you want. Good choice. Definitely topcoat! For light-use pieces (such as a mirrior frame), I spray dewaxed shellac. I just buy Zinsser's Seal Coat and cut it about 25% with denatured alcohol. Spray the first coat, LIGHTLY scuff with a well-used piece of 220 or 320 grit paper (just knocking off the nibs now), then spray on another one or two coats. You can build up more, but watch for excessive build-up on sharp outside corners. For a heavily built-up topcoat, you can start by sealing with the shellac, or just go straight to oil-based polyurethane.

   I like the shellac, because (a) the fumes aren't too bad, (b) clean-up is a breeze, (c) it is not very tempermental about temperature and humidity, (d) it is quick-drying, which has the bonus of not collecting a lot of dust.

2. 
   hammer1 | Dec 26, 2008 06:20pm | #2

   The five applications of a stain is a bit unusual. What brand and type of gel stain did you use? How did you apply it? Generally, you should be able to use the top coat of your choice. If you have a thick coating of stain, and it hasn't dried completely, solvent type top coats could lift some of the stain.

   Finishing is like any other woodworking task. It takes practice and experimentation. This is a process you should not try on an actual work piece. Get some decent sized scrap and start experimenting. There are hundreds of finishing products available from many manufacturers. They all have certain properties and appearances.

   With a mirror, you may want to stay away from shellac. Window cleaners often contain ammonia and that will effect shellac. Other household cleaners can have a negative effect on it as well. That still leaves many other choices, waterborne as well solvent based. Most come in various levels of sheen, from high gloss to matte. It depends on the look you want.

   Spraying may be a good way to go considering your stain application. Wipe on or brush on finishes are more likely to effect the stain, depending on what it is. Solvent based finishes expose you to chemicals you should not breathe but that doesn't mean you shouldn't use respiratory protection with waterborne materials.

   I don't know if any of us will live long enough to try every type and brand of finish. They keep changing, too. Most of us find a few that we like and have learned to use. In many cases you can't tell one from another when completed. Personally, I think the newer hybrid waterborne's are a good way to go for spraying. They have the low VOCs of a water based finish but also have the amber hue of traditional solvent finishes. Curing time can take a while, though. Homestead finishing carries Oxford Hybrivar. As always, read and follow the manufacturers instructions but practice on something that doesn't count.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   sflood75 | Dec 26, 2008 10:23pm | #3

   Thanks for all the great advice. I really appreciate the input.I agree, five coats seemed like a lot to me as well. It only took four coats on my practice board (thankfully I knew well enough to practice first). I was going for a dark, mocha brown with hues of deep red highlights shining through. I used General Finishes Gel Stain. The two colors were Georgian Cherry and Java. The cherry went down first in two coats, and then it took three coats of the Java to achieve the mocha brown I was going for. I applied all coats with cloth and removed the excess with the same. Maybe I was taking too much color off with the rag. The last coat I applied a relatively thin layer compared to the rest, let it partially dry and then used a dry brush to smooth the stain. I think it came out pretty good for my first time away from Minwax.I ended up using satin poly for the finish simply for comfort level. I've never worked with shellac. I didn't know if I could use water based poly on top of oil base stain. Good to know that I can. I brushed it on, which was not my first choice, but my shop isn't heated and I've got young ones in the house. At least with the brush there is no overspray. Thanks again for all the great advice. I'm so glad to know that there is a resource like this. Happy New Year to all!

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 27, 2008 05:35pm | #4

   Sounds like things went well.  Gel stain is about the only pigmented stain that can be "built up" to that extent, and even so it likely obscured the grain a bit. 

   As a suggestion for other projects, if you have a relatively light colored wood that you want to make dark, use a dye (if you don't spray use a water soluble powdered aniline dye) on the bare wood to establish the overall darkness and base color.  You can then seal this lightly and apply a gel stain to get increased "depth", with less obscuring of grain.