Hi,
I sorta following Jeff Jewitt’s idea for a faux fumed oak finish. I used medium red/brown Transtint water based dye. It’s close to what I want but on the finished pieces, those where I took the “idea” to the end it wasn’t as dark appearing. Maybe it’s because of the greater area fooling my eye. But there is no way the piece is going to come out as the test piece did. I’m going to use a dark pigmented oil finish then possibly a glaze then a final finish. I want to have the redness toned down just a bit. I’ve sanded it with a grey scotch brite pad and that lightened it a bit. I know the color layer is shallow, I’m wondering if I get more aggressive will I cause unknown problems. I sanded down my test peice with some 220 and it gets sorta mottled looking.
Will the oil based finish “mask” some of this redness? I’ll use a med-dark walnut. Then the glaze. None of my test pieces came out a red as the final product so I don’t have mush to experiment with. I guess I could start over on some samples but I’m just fishing for advice along the way.
Thanks,
N
Edited 1/21/2003 12:12:26 AM ET by notrix
Replies
Notrix,
No expert here but, it took me about ten sample pieces all the way through the finished process before I was reasonably sure of what the outcome would look like with the dye and the different finishes. For instance, same batch of dye..applied to wood from the same board....waterlox finish = medium brown with tiny bit of red highlights, looks old. Poly waterbased finish = much darker, purple hue, looks crappy. In your case, it would seem to me your only hope is to sand the whole thing down. There are just to many variations that can evolve..
Yea!
It took me 8 to find the shade I wanted!
Now it looks like it's not gonna come out that way. I'm using the exact same batches of everything. Mybe I let it soak in longer. Would have only been a matter of a minute or 2. But obviously I can't dye and wipe 10 sq. ft. as quickly as 10 sq. inches.
Thanks,
N
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