Replies

1. 
   JeffHeath | Jul 14, 2008 03:59am | #1

   Bruce

   You've got it.  I have on #7 with a cambered iron for flattening, and another with a flat edge for edge jointing.  If you don't want to have 2 planes, then 2 irons will certainly do the trick, with a substantial savings in investment.

   Jeff

2. 
   Sean2112 | Jul 14, 2008 05:28am | #2

   David Charlesworth advises a camber in his jointer planes. The theory is
   it creates a slight concavity in the edges, thus creating a hollow for glue and a tighter joint. When jointing, the plane must be centered on the wood for this to work properly. I have 3 jointer planes, one of which has a cambered blade. It really does work nicely. Regards, Sean

3. 
   RMillard | Jul 14, 2008 01:11pm | #3

   Bruce,

   I keep my jointer blade flat for both edge jointing and flattening. The edges do tear a bit, when flattening, but that is quickly taken care of when I switch to the smooth plane.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

    

    

    

   
   

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   Edited 7/14/2008 6:11 am ET by RMillard

4. 
   BruceS | Jul 14, 2008 06:15pm | #4

   Well the #7 is all cleaned up and went with square for the moment.  Just purred through QS sycamore, now the #3 feels like a toy.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

5. 
   TaunTonMacoute | Jul 14, 2008 08:56pm | #5

   Camber the old boy about a 32nd.  The only thing I don't camber is the cutter on a rabbet plane.

   
   

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   Edited 7/14/2008 1:57 pm ET by TaunTonMacoute

6. 
   gdblake | Jul 16, 2008 01:31am | #6

   If you are match jointing boards you don't want any camber to the iron.  In match planing you put the faces together and line up the long edges.  It doesn't matter if you are off from square a little because the boards become mirror images of each other and mate to give you a flat panel.  If you are jointing boards too thick to match plane, then the slight camber makes it easier to get a square edge by taking advantage of the curve of the iron to offset any lean you might have in holding the plane.  David Charlesworth has a great article that explains this.   Here is a link to the source for the article. 

   http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleabstract?aid=14436