Replies

1. 
   jako17 | Jul 26, 2010 09:38pm | #1

   It prefers one uncoated surface and one melamine

1. 
   webby | Jul 27, 2010 08:40am | #2

   Ok thank you. Yes that was what I meant, cut edge to coated face.

2. 
   GregoryPaolini | Jul 30, 2010 07:09am | #3

   Glue Melamine

   Webby,

   I've never used the melamine glue, but I work with a good ammount of melamine when makeing shop cabs, or economically priced cabinets.  Here's my thoughts on the process:  The joint strength, regardless of how strong the glue bonds to the melamine surface, is still dependant on how strong the melamine is bonded to the substrate.   

   Generally, when I want to glue melamine, I try to cut shallow rabbets or dados, and use plain yellow glue.  They only need to be 1/32 of an inch deep,  just enough to remove the plastic coating, and expose the substrate.  Now I've got an actual wood to wood joint, which makes me feel better atleast. 

   Hope this helps,

1. 
   webby | Aug 03, 2010 03:53pm | #5

   Thanks for the advice. I was planing on a shallow dado.

3. 
   brownman | Aug 03, 2010 02:51pm | #4

   Melamine glue

   Yeah Webby, that's what it's made for. I've used Roo Glue for many years in making Melamine cases. It's the same type of glue as the titebond melamine glue , althought it's been around longer . You can use a shallow dado and use regular yellow glue  as another poster has suggested,but as far as strength goes there's little if any difference and that just adds more work to what your trying to accomplish. I went through that transition many years ago and I've found that you get a better finished look when you don't use dado's, so why add another step. I would suggest using dadoes only where you can't get in screws , nails or staples as an additional mechanical support.