Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 19, 2008 08:17pm | #1

   There have been two recent, loonnnng threads on same, at least one of them was loonnnnng.  If you browse the titles in the power tools section, you can probably find one or both.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
2. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Jan 19, 2008 08:31pm | #2

   PD, see my  chat starting with  39578.1  for my sears 13" .  Start by giving the bolts a bath with PB Blaster  , an aerosol penatrating oil, go make a pot of coffee then work slowly seating the allen key well in a clean bolt socket and apply torque slowly. This was one of the most trying jobs for me in a long time. Each bolt was like a hand grenade and I only had to drill and extract one bolt. Paddy

1. 
   phil_d | Jan 20, 2008 12:33am | #6

   Thanks All-

   I did the penetrating oil, made the coffee, and used the impact driver.  Worked well.  Not a stripped socket in the bunch.  The manufacture's wrench was not much to write about though. I am going to find some upgrade socket screws too.

   Appreciate the tips.

   Phil D

1. 
   9michael9 | Jan 21, 2008 05:43pm | #7

   impact drivers are amazing

1. 
   Piccioni | Jan 21, 2008 09:10pm | #8

   Although I have a theory that penetrating oil is a placebo.

   In over 30 years of dousing stuff with penetrating oil, I don't think I'l ever found it made a difference.

   Now a dab of anti seize during assembly is priceless.

1. 
   phil_d | Jan 22, 2008 05:26am | #10

   Good input from all, and much appreciated.  I am not buying into the penetrating oil factor much myself.  My money was on the impact driver.  But....my little experiment will not resolve that debate.  I did use penetrating oil, and an impact driver....

   I reassembled the screws by reversing the driver, but ratcheting the torque down three counts.  My theory is that the driver should be able to overcome that next time.  We will see.

   Thanks again // Phil

2. 
   dgreen | Jan 22, 2008 06:03am | #11

   I think you are correct, I have never found a planer that the impact driver would not remove the screws without the aid of penetrating oil.------------------------------------

   It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore

3. 
   JohnWW | Jan 22, 2008 05:30pm | #12

   Tightening down with an impact driver is not a good practice with that small of a bolt.  Tighten by hand so you can feel both how tight the bolts are, if they are more or less equally tight, and if they are drawing up properly.

   John White

4. 
   phil_d | Jan 23, 2008 07:18am | #14

   Thanks John-  I will head your advice.  Hand tighten to get the feel.  //Phil

5. 
   Mackwood | Jan 23, 2008 05:01am | #13

   I think you're right for the most part except for one product.  Kroil made by Kano Labs.  Stuff is amazing!!!  I had a 1936 AC bulldozer that I needed to work on and used this stuff to de-rust stuff that had been fused for decades! 

   Regards,

   Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, S--T IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

2. 
   [email protected] | Jan 22, 2008 03:13am | #9

   When you reassemble it, put a little loc-tite green on the screws.  It is the weakest of the loc-tites, and will act as an anti-seize, while keeping things from vibrating loose. 

   I think that part of the problem is the bolts are not the same metal as the cutter head, (aluminum, and steel), and the bolts are being "welded" into place by the dissimilar metals corrosion. 

   When you put them back in hand torque them, to be sure they are not over tightened. 

   Here is a link to a decent torque table:  http://www.fandisc.com/tti.htm

3. 
   JohnWW | Jan 19, 2008 08:44pm | #3

   A quick summary of the discussions about this is that a number of planer manufacturers would seem to be having problems with quality control and are severely over-tightening the blade lock screws when the machines are assembled. This, combined with a lack of lubrication on the threads, and sitting for months until the machine first needs a blade change can make it impossible in some cases to back off the screws, especially if they are Allen heads, and the screw heads will have to be ground off. Once the heads are removed the screw stubs are usually loose enough to easily back out by hand.

   Certainly if the machine is still under warranty you should get in touch with Delta (lots of luck there) or the outfit that sold you the machine. It is quite likely that no amount of penetrating oil, strippped/siezed screw removing tricks and tools, and copious swearing will break the screws free, and they will have to be ground off with a Dremel style grinder.

   Good Luck, John White

1. 
   dgreen | Jan 19, 2008 10:25pm | #4

   An impact driver (not a hammer drill) is very effective.------------------------------------

   It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore

4. 
   JerryPacMan | Jan 19, 2008 10:45pm | #5

   What dgreen said and maybe the one shown in the link below.  Also, bit prep is very important.  Remove any burrs and ridges so that the bit will seat in the head as deep as possible.  I always grind the end of new Phillips bits so that they grip properly and do not bottom out.

   http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P?keyword=impact+driver

    

   Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .

   
   

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   Edited 1/19/2008 2:46 pm ET by JerryPacMan