Replies

1. 
   lwj2 | Dec 26, 2004 03:51pm | #1

   Probably interior stresses.

   I watched with horror as some butternut I was ripping bowed as it came clear of the blade.

   Had to re-joint the whole mess, wound up using almost 40% more timber than I'd planned for a top.

   Leon Jester, Roanoke VA

1. 
   pinocchio | Dec 31, 2004 02:45am | #6

   Thanks for your reply.

2. 
   RMillard | Dec 26, 2004 04:19pm | #2

   The grain pattern that makes tiger maple so appealing also makes it somewhat unstable. I know nothing about kiln drying, but I do know if not done right, it will build internal stress. This sounds to me like what has happened to you. Unfortunately you really can't do anything about it, other than deal with a reputable supplier. I've noticed with the period furniture I'm familiar with, that doors are nearly always lipped to allow for a little movement, without destroying the fit. You may want to adopt this on future projects.

   Rob Millard

1. 
   pinocchio | Dec 31, 2004 02:40am | #5

   Thanks for your reply.

3. 
   joinerswork | Dec 26, 2004 05:25pm | #3

   SPHRJ1,

   It's always a good idea to get stock out for door frames and such, that needs to be good and straight, well ahead of time so it can relax if it wants to.  I rough stock out about 1" over length, and 3/8" over width.  It's my practice to then let it sit for a day or two, then dress to thickness.  It'll help to try to choose straight grain (clear, not adjacent to knots, little "run out" of the grain, no bow or cup to begin with).  When dressing, try to skin off an equal amt from each side of the board. With all this, sometimes you will still have to do over.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   pinocchio | Dec 31, 2004 02:39am | #4

   Thanks for taking the time to reply. I like your suggestions. Fortunately, I don't have too many warped pieces. If I understand you correctly, you are planing as your last step in milling? Question: if my warpage is minimal at final dimension, is there anything to do to correct it, such as trying to apply pressure to bend the wood in the opposite direction? Thanks again.
   Howard

1. 
   3fingers | Dec 31, 2004 07:03am | #7

   Is your shop heated?  Also how long did you let the wood set in the shop after you bought it from the mill?

2. 
   joinerswork | Dec 31, 2004 05:09pm | #8

   SPHR,

   I rough out oversize, wait a bit, then thickness, then rip (again) to final width, then cut to length. 

   If the warped pieces are going to be used in an area that allows them to be pushed or pulled straight, then I guess you can give it a try.  Just give the wood room to expand and shrink with humidity changes; curly maple moves more than most woods, summer to winter.

   Good luck,

   Ray

3. 
   KeithNewton | Dec 31, 2004 05:24pm | #9

   I use this same practice as described by jointerswork, and will try to respond to your question to him.
   No is the answer to bending it back. Wood has memory which can only be changed with enough heat to cause the lignin to soften and allow the cells to slip by one another and re-attach after cooling. Any other bending will just spring back unless it is attached to something to hold it straight.
   When I am using a wood which I suspect might warp too much. I try to bring along some extra parts, so that some can be culled if they go weird.
   :