Dear Peter,
I last wrote asking you about salvaging my frozen finishes. It tunred out that depsite 4 years of freeze-thaw cycles, all the non-water based products seem to be OK. Thanks for the advice.
I would like to ask what youy might think the best finish for Tiger Maple is in your expereince. I see many varying recipes and it is rather confusing. I have complested a tiger maple Chester Co. spice box with Line-and-Berry inlay and a hunt table. Both took a lot of time and work so I am a bit paranoid about the finish. I have come up with the following plan and would like your comments. My plan is to proceed as follows:
1. Sand to 220. Some say to sand only to 150 for better results (more color in the stripes which is softer wood and absorbs more dye). Too late for that for me. I also se that Chas. Neil actaully dyes the wood before he even sand at 150 for more absorption of dye in the stripes; he then dyes again after sanding to a final 150 grit. Any comments on that?
2. Nitric acid wash which is heated to catalyze the reaction of acid with tannins to get a uniform dark background that is supposed to accentuate the stripes in the tiger maple (that’s the theory at least). I know how to be safe with this very toxic chemical. I see that others will dye the wood and then sand it to remove color from the non-stripe wood background.
3. Some use chlorox now, but I experimented with that and think I’ll omit that step (neutralizes the acid and lightens the background – it did not work well on a test piece)
4. Water based aniline dye – mix of Golden Amber from Olde Mille Cabinet Shop and some Mahogany reds plus or minus Burnt Umber – I want an antique look. Do you have any mixes that work well for you. I am not totally satisfied with the colors I got with test pieces.
5. Oil: Naptha half and half with Boiled Linseed Oil, with some Fresco colors added – burnt umber and black. This is a recipe from a woodworker friend, but I do not understand the rationale really. Not sure if I need to keep adding more color.
6. Shellac brushed on ( I do not spray yet) – maybe 3-5 coats thinned and sanded at 400 between coats. Is Zinsser Amber in the can just as good as dissolving flakes? Again, I am confused by the fact that folks seem to be adding color again in the shellac (fresco colors – pinch of Venetian Red, Burnt Umber , etc.).
7. Bowling Alley Wax with some brown/ red pigment added (same question about adding color).
Is there anything special I should do to protect the inlay before applying dye, etc. Applying shellac to all the inlay would be an awful lot of work I think.
Sorry this is so long. I really appreciate your opinions. I am ready to start, but just need some reassurance. I’ll try to send pictures if I can of the results.
God bless,
Bill
Replies
Bill,
I read this three times and it finally hit me; ask someone how they make meatloaf and you'll get a hundred different recipes. You are getting the same thing, everyone's recipes.
I don't have a "best" finish for anything. I have done a variety of treatments with tiger maple that will accommodate a clients taste. I've used a medium yellow dye and followed that with a canary yellow to get a bright deep look
I've dyed it first with a medium strength (mid chroma) violet dye followed by a medium yellow or golden amber dye. The yellow and violet are compliments on the color wheel; that is they are opposite each other and when combined will yield a lovely golden brown. Just take some of your amber dye and drop a pinch in a glass of clear water. You'll see an orange (bismark brown) a yellow and a violet.
# 1 You can always re-sand to a lower grit. Why would you think it was too late?
# 2 I'm glad you know this is a very toxic chemical. IMO there is really no need to use it. Yes I know, it was done like that in the 18th century. They also bled people to cure illness.
# 4 Medium yellow followed by brown amber. The dyes I use on a regular basis are from W.D. Lockwood in New York. I think that's where Olde Mill gets theirs. Or brown amber followed by medium yellow.
# 5 Someone has given you their recipe for a home made oil stain. If I were to make that I would use an artist oil paint for colorant. It would combine much more readily.
# 6 Amber shellac contains wax. No big deal if you are just using shellac as your finish. If you planned on using a water based finish or a poly over it you're better off with de-waxed shellac. Making your own from flakes will be fresher. Adding color such as TransTint dye which is already in solution will give you a much better and clearer color. Why is it done? Along with salt and pepper for seasoning, do you ever use a hot sauce? It's just a matter of taste. I'll use tinted shellac to help "spice" up a color. There is really no reason to sand between each coat as the shellac will "burn" into itself.
# 7 Wax with color is fine at the end. You can add it around the edges and reliefs to add shadow lines.
Protecting the inlays form colorants with shellac can be tough. The other thing to keep in mind is you can lightly and carefully sand the inlay if it has too much color for your eye. The operative word is lightly and carefully.
I must admonish you here. You really need to sit down and read a good basic finishing book. Bob Flexnors book will be very helpful to you. You don't understand the basics of the materials or what they can and can't do. Instead you're asking everyone's recipes and getting confused. I would too.
The good thing is you're making samples which at least will give you some visual perspective.
The one adage I follow again and again; use the kiss method, KEEP IT SIMPLE
Peter
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