Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | Jan 16, 2007 03:05am | #1

   Dave, Standard kerf blades are generally 1/8". Thin kerf blades are generally about 1/16" = 1.56 mm. A given blade might be a little thicker. It varies slightly among manufacturers. Rich

1. 
   Dave45 | Jan 16, 2007 03:09am | #2

   That would work.  I can get my 2mm with a double pass.

1. 
   Telemike | Jan 17, 2007 05:22am | #12

   A word of warning on the double cut. The first cut will be totally in the wood and will be straight. On the second cut, only one side of the blade will be cutting; the other side will not be supported by the wood. The blade will deflect slightly towards the unsupported side. The second wall of the dado won't be perpendicular to the surface and the width won't be even. You can compensate some for this effect by making the second cut twice. If your cuts are not very long, this effect shouldn't be a problem.

2. 
   Quickstep | Jan 16, 2007 04:12am | #3

   My systimatic thin kerf blade is 3/32" (.09375); 2mm is .07874. Is a tolerance of .01501 close enough?

3. 
   Knotscott | Jan 16, 2007 04:38am | #4

   Most TK blades are ~ 3/32". Matsu$hita makes a 7-1/4" blade that's 1/16". Tenryu makes some excellent "Ultra" thin kerfs too... ~ 0.079"

   
   

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   Edited 1/16/2007 8:31 am ET by Knotscott

4. 
   mudman | Jan 16, 2007 08:52am | #5

   If you need that specific kerf for a Dado type operation, and will be doing it a lot, contact your local tool/ saw sharpener. THey could make or modify one to suit your needs. Also Forrest welcomes orders for a specific blade. THis way you can get the kerf, tooth geometry/count and grind that will work best.

   Mike

   Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

5. 
   Pondfish | Jan 16, 2007 03:16pm | #6

   You can always make a bit of scratch stock to do the kerf, assuming the kerf isn't too deep.  FWW archives has an article on how to make a scratch stock from an old piece of bandsaw blade (or any hard metal).  This is typically done for string inlay, but you can make wider scratchers to make wider kerfs.  The black lines on this piece were done using a shopmade scratcher (then filled with tinted epoxy).  It was wider than 2mm, and I cut the grooves to about 4mm deep.

   A scratch stock to make straight lines is similar to a marking gauge.  Check the archives, I think it was with a string inlay article.

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005

   
1. 
   Dave45 | Jan 16, 2007 05:53pm | #8

   Pondfish -

   That probably wouldn't work for my project.  I'll be making these pieces in production runs and can't get into much hand work.  The plan is to cut the kerf on the 1/2" x 1" stock, round the edges, and cut to length.

   At this point, I'm also concerned about the pieces warping due to the machining process.  I'll be doing a test run later today to see what other problems show up - lol.

   
1. 
   dherzig | Jan 16, 2007 09:45pm | #9

   I wonder how much run-out there is in your saw, since that will also change the kerf.

1. 
   Dave45 | Jan 16, 2007 11:04pm | #10

   My old saw is pretty tight.  I keep it dialed in and almost never push it too hard.  I've done lots of similar cuts with my regular blades but need to use something smaller for this project.

2. 
   SteveB | Jan 17, 2007 04:20am | #11

   How about a slotting bit on a router table?

   I'm sure you could set something up that would work slick and may be safer than a TS operation.

   I don't know the availability of 2mm bits, but even if nothing is available it would be easy to get one ground to your specs.

   Good luck.

   Steve

1. 
   [email protected] | Jan 17, 2007 05:43am | #13

   Frued has 2mm slot cutters to fit on the 5/16 arbor. 

6. 
   charlesm | Jan 16, 2007 03:57pm | #7

   Dave,

   Most TK blades are 3/32" kerf. The Freud LU83R008 is 2.1mm (0.083") kerf or you could use the Diablo D0740 which is 1.5mm and make two passes.

   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.