New in this message board. Been woodworking for a few years and stumbled across this while checking out Finewoodworking page. Subscribe to magazine an love it. Just checking to see options/opinions on thickness planer. Have jointer, but seems to just be sufficient for edging. Any suggestions appreciated.
Ron
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Replies
Ron,
I've have the Dewalt 733 and 735, both excellent machines. The 734 works well also, it is an updated 733. My 733 served me well until I bound up the cutterhead on the height adjusting screw, just haven't had time to fix it. That's the reason I have the 735- had to get a job done and bought the best I could at the time.
I'd recommend figuring out what type of work you plan on using it for and then get an appropriate machine that will handle your needs. I've heard the Delta 13" is good also.
Craig
Craig
Thanks for reply to my inquiry. Looking around and just getting some info.
Thamks
Ron
Hello Ron,
I also have The DeWalt 733. So far no problems. A little bit of snipe happening but that may be due to operator error as much as anything. I got a good deal on the planer and $50 rebate so I am smiling.
Happy hunting.
Bill in Madera, CA
Bill
Thanks for feedback. I do like the DeWalt product line. I have their 746 saw and really like it.
Thanks again
Ron
Be sure to support the lumber when it exits the planer. Snipe will occur on the end of the board when it passes by the leading feed roller. Looking the diagram at the diagram in the attached file you can see what happens.
Hi, Ron, welcome! What price range are you in and what types of wood might you be working (e.g., any figured woods in your future?).
I have the Delta 12.5" benchtop planer and it does an excellent job. I usually start sanding at 150 or 220 grit after planing. However, if I needed a planer and had the dough, I'd go for the new DeWalt 13" with the 3-knife cutterhead and 2 speeds.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Hi Jamie! Just saw your post mentioning the DeWalt 735. Just got it cause my Delta 22-560, which I loved, finally gave up the ghost in the middle of milling all the cherry for my new kitchen cabinets. Have had my eye on the DeWalt for a while so wasn't too ticked when the Delta quit. Highly recommend the DeWalt. I had some snipe problems running 10' pieces of 3/4 cherry through but wasn't doing a great job of supporting it and hadn't attached the support tables either (in a rush to get the wood done). So any problems are, I'm guessing, operator error.
Hey, a quick question. Posted it in the "finishes" section but this may be quicker. Just put a coat of Bullseye sealcoat on the cabinets (a thin shellac) and scuff sanded w/ 400 grit paper. I know not to use alcohol to wipe the sanding dust but is mineral spirits OK? Pretty sure it's OK but didn't see anything on the directions and have to clean it up tomorrow. (Thursday night). Thanks my friend, Brian
Mineral spirit is fine on shellac. It is often used as a lubricant for rubbed shellac finish.
Mineral spirits is fine for wiping. Sometimes used as a lubricant for rub finishing of shellac.
Welcome.. I suggest checking out the woodmaster planers. They have a separate feed roller motor that lets you enjoy true speed control. from barely moving , to fast, it is your choice. Also they are built like a tank. very strong.I have one 25" and it is easy to adjust and maintain. Bob
is it true that Dewalt does not have the double edge blades? what does a set of three cost?I should ask Ron this
Edited 3/1/2004 11:12:09 PM ET by vern
Bob
Thanks for reply. What kind of price range is this in? The 25" would suit me just fine if I can afford it.
Thanks
Ron
http://www.woodmastertools.com/ Here is the website of the woodmaster tool company. You can get up to date info and prices. Good luck Bob
Just a word of caution on the DW 735. As I posted a couple of weeks ago, I bought it about a month ago and truly like the beefy machine. However, after about a month a sprocket on the rollers disintegrated, local DW service center didn't have parts and after a check with the DW parts headquarters we learned that there were no spare parts. Someone else on the forum mentioned there was a design flaw (which might account for the lack of parts) but I can't confirm that. Fortunately for me I had puchased it at the local Woodcraft store and they gladly exchanged it; if it happens again, I may go back to the Delta only because of the parts problem.
Sailalex
I consider your post a "public service"! Keep the forum informed as the DW has not been battle proven yet.
Thanks...
sarge..jtProud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
The specific failure in my DW735 was the sprocket that attaches to the rollers and drives them via the chain. Without warning the rollers stopped and after a check I realized a piece of the sprocket had broken loose and the rest disintegrated when removed from the roller shaft. At the DW Service Center we compared the sprocket from the previous design (733?) and it was visably a much beefier sprocket. Whether this is the "design flaw" that someone reported here on Knots or not, I don't know.
The new replacement DW735 is used regularly and for the last 3 weeks , has had no problem.
I have the Delta, and consider it just fine. I'm not sure what I would buy if I had to replace it. But...
I believe that the DeWalt had sharpenable blades until the new model came out recently, which switched to dual speed and three disposable blades. As Sarge noted, the new model hasn't been battle proven yet. And I question the need for dual speed (that statement is sure to start a discussion). The old DeWalt was more attractive to me, since I would rather sharpen blades than discard them. ________________________Charlie Plesums Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood
Sailalex,
I think that the Dewalt's may have been redesigned- My rollers are supported on both ends. I did a search about the design flaw and was unable to locate specifics. Can you elaborate on where the failure was and what others have had?
My only problem was ordering it and having is shipped UPS. 3 735's shipped, 3 destroyed, 3 returned. Ended up buying one locally.
If you are doing the full Monty, and want a heavy stationary unit, be sure to check out the new Powermatic with the spiral cutterhead.
If you are going the portable 12- to 13-inch route, get the top-priced Delta or Dewalt, and then build a good stand for it, with infeed and outfeed extensions. Eases your work, and minimizes end snipe.
Thanks for reply. Will probably go with DW 734 or Delta 22-560
$80 difference after sale price on Delta and may be worth the extra $80.
Thank
Ron
Ron,
I'll cast my vote for the venurable old Dewalt 733. Lots of bang for the buck. Course, if price is not relevent, that spiral cutterhead Powermatic sounds like a beauty.
DW 733 versus 734 which is available at shop I was in. Any difference except for a few bells and whistles that you know of
Thanks
Ron
The 734 has a three blade head, and the 733 has a two. I think the quality of cut practically identical. I just checked Toolcrib, and they don't stock the 733 anymore. The 733 uses resharpenable knives, and comes with a spare set, the 734 uses disposable, and the ones I've checked out do not come with a spare set. Go with either and I bet, you won't regret it.Steve
Ron,
The only difference is the cutterhead, it has 3 knife disposable on the 734, 2 knife resharpenable on the 733. I like the thicker blades on my 733, it costs me $14 to have them resharpened. I think the 734 blades run $50 a set but are double sided. New blades for the 733 are around $35 a pair.
The 734 does produce a nicer finish, but if you sand it before finish, what is the point? It does handle curly grain better.
If you can get the 733, I'd grab it. I'm hanging on to my 733 to handle planing of rough stock and lumber.
Thanks for reply. I amtaking the plunge this weekend and am going between the DW 734 and the Delta 22-560. The Delta is a discontinued item so parts may be a future problem. Hopefully I won't need any for a while. However your message has me thinking DW734 again even though it only comes with one knife set. Your feedback is very helpful
Thanks again
Ron
Ron
Look at the Grizzley with the spiral cutter head.. It's a copy of a polish design that is at least 40 plus years old and built like a tank!
The spiral cutterheads are a major plus..
You have these cutterheads on a spiral that makes planning really quiet instead of the normal screaming procedure.. that plus of you should hit a nail or damage a section of the cutter head so that it leaves the tailtail groove in the board you just stop the machine. loosen up the affected cutterhead rotate it ninety degrees and tighten everything back up. From damaged to perfect in less than a minute.. and you still have another two cutting edges to screw up before it needs to be replaced, each cutter has four sharp sides, there are many cutters in a spiral across the planner.
after about 40,000 bd.ft. you may need to replace or resharpen the cutterheads.
A place where I used to buy my hardwood claims that they have a source of new cutters for $1.35 each..
Ron. have to say that I am partial to the Powermatic proucts.It may be because in the early years I built some of the foundry patterns for the planer.They have always designed their tools to be hefty and accurate. I use today one of the 12" models with the 3 knife cutterhead. It is about 30 years old. I am not familiar with the bench top planers that are part of the discussions. This old machine does not know the meaning of the word snipe. With the spring loaded pressure bar on the outfeed side of the head and the weighted pressure bar on the infeed side,the feed is even and sure. the infeed bar is activated by the rise of the infeed serrated roll. When the board goes into the infeed side,the bar is adjusted to rise just enough to allow it to pass.This bar is designed as the chip breaker. It just barely misses the cutting arc of the knives.I adjust the outfeed pressure bar to put a little pressure on the board as it leaves the cutterhead.My table rollers are above the feed table surface by.003" These are all critical adjustments,but once made,they can be forgotten .I double check them each time that I replace the knives.No,I seldom plane lumber rough from the saw. I always face the good side of the board straight and true on the jointer.The cut by the planer will assure an even thickness,and a straight and parallel surface.I advise anyone to buy a heavier floor model unit if it can be accomodated. The extra cost can be amortised over the years.
Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
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