In reading the latest issue, I was surprised not to see pocket hole joinery as one of the options discussed for joining drawers together. I’ve heard that butted pocket hole joints are stronger and faster than biscuits. Is there something I should know about problems or bias against pocket hole joinery? I don’t own a pocket hole jig but I am considering such a purchase for building new kitchen cabinets face frames and drawers for my home.
– Lyptus
Replies
I'd think that pocket holes would look rather unpleasant on either side of the drawer (inside or outside). They might be OK for the back of the drawer, though, where they could be hidden. But, why bother for just the back of the drawer?
A valid choice for the face frames, where there is no movement, but for a drawer, which is being pushed and pulled constantly, the screws may tend to loosen over time. There may also be constraints regarding minimum thickness of the back or sides when using pocket hole joinery.
I have made drawers for the shop, out of 3/4 plywood, and wec hardwoods, using pocket holes, and urethane glue, which are pretty much indestructable.
They are not very pretty, and definitely don't, (even with a huge benefit of the doubt), meet any standard by which they could be called "fine woodworking".
That said; Most pocket hole jigs, and all the Kregg jigs, will handle 1/2-inch stock, so you could make drawer boxes in a "traditional" box, with seperate front facia panel layout, and hide the pocket holes behind the front facia, and at the back of the back panel so they are hidden.
In his book Udo Schmidt talks about using pocket hole drawers for kitchen cabinets, obviously you'd want false fronts. He tacks them together with a brad nailer then drives the screws to prevent creep.
A couple of months ago I built a shop cabinet, including 1/2" plywood drawers, entirely with pocket hole joinery. No glue. Just want to see how it holds up. Time will tell.
Edited 10/10/2008 9:22 am ET by knuts
Edited 10/10/2008 9:22 am ET by knuts
I have a pocket hole jig set-up and find new uses for it all the time. I would certainly recommend you have one for a set of kitchen cabinets. There are numerous places where a pocket screw will make your life easier especially during the install. For instance, I used mine for attaching base platforms to my hardwood floor. Very quick and easy and never to be seen by anyone except the guy who eventually tears them out. As far a using pocket screws for drawers, I don't see any problem although there are better/quicker ways to do this, I think. If one uses metal bearing slides, I am convinced the box could be assembled with nothing more than good quality tape and would serve for as long as the tape adhesive didn't dry out.
Lyptus ,
The reason the pocket screws were not mentioned is mainly it is not a suitable application in most cases . I have seen blind biscuits and dowels used but never pocket screws . I build hundreds of drawers a year and the box material is 1/2" with an applied drawer face , I wouldn't know where you could use them unless you used thicker materials ?
dusty , who uses Pocket screws
I don't have an opinion about them for drawers, but one thing I do use them for besides the face frames is to attach the face frames to the cases. Just use the mobile base to predrill through the outside of the case. No clamps and no waiting for the glue to dry! And no adjustments on the biscuit joiner! I do use glue in addition, but because of the pocket screws the units can be handled immediately.
Brian
Thank you for your feedback. I think I may try using lock rabbet joints for my kitchen drawers. I have nothing against dovetails and used them to join all four corners of a 7-drawer dresser I recently finished. However, I need to prove to my wife that I can finish a project in less then 3-years. It sounds like a pocket hole jig would be a good investment for joining the face frames together and for joining the face frames to the cabinet carcasses. It seems Kreg is the most popular brand out there for pocket hole joinery. Is it worth it to get their Master System or is that overkill? Would it be wiser to get a few of the newer Kreg clamps and either the K3 or K4 jigs?- Lyptus
I recently saw an email for a Kreg Master @ $99.00. Just having the clamping handle on the front is a huge convenience.
Where did you see that?- Lyptus
I just looked in my deleted and can't find it. I delete my deleted after 48 hrs. If I find it on a search, I'll post it here. I do remember it was from a vendor I know of.
Kregg K-3 at Lowes
Slowly working it's way across the country, but Lowes is getting rid of the K-3 for $79. You just have to keep checking daily as no one knows when they will get mark down information. Kinda like they did with the Bessies.
I recently purchased the Master Kreg. Love it. Used all of it. Now I do need extra clamps. My suggestion is to get the Master - use it - and figure out what other clamps you could use to make your work easier.
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