I’m building Matthew Teague’s wall cabinet featured in FWW #180. But where Matthew uses primarily power tools, I’m using the project to sharpen my hand skills. I’m just a little baffeled as to how to cut the blind rabbet around the back edge of the cabinet. I could just plow it the full length of the side and end pieces but then I would have to repair the dovetails.
What is the process for making this joint by hand?
-Chuck
Replies
What type of hand plane were you planning to use to cut the rabbet? If you have a 78, stopping short of the ends should not be difficult. You may have to clean the corners a bit with a chisel to neaten things, but otherwise the plane only cuts where you start it or stop it, just like a router.
I have a 78, but I was trying to use my 55, of which I have stripped off most of the stops and gizmos so that it is just a basic plow plane. I started on one piece cutting down from the edge, but I soon realized that, that wasn't a good idea. The stock is 1/2" and the rabbet is 3/8" X 5/8" so the remaining stock is pretty thin.
Are you suggesting that I use my 78 with the blade in the bullnose position and cut the rabbet with the stock lying flat on the bench? Just saying that seems like a better approach than what I was trying.
Thanks for the response.
Chuck
I took it the carcass of the cabinet was not assembled yet? Assuming this is correct, add another board or two behind the workpiece when vised to your bench apron so as to increase that support surface - 1/8th inch is far to thin for good control IMHO. In fact, you could do, with bar clamps or whatever, this even if the dovetails had been assembled
As for the bullnose configuration, that's fine, but - again assuming the parts are still separate - shouldn't be necessary because the plane's nose is free to travel slightly off the board at the end of the cut.
Oh yeah, and you're right that another option is to do it is to have the board flat on the bench (or with the edge just hanging off so as to provide fence clearance) so long as you have a way to secure the board to teh top without interferring with your operation.
Samson,
Thank you very much, and very well explained.
I think this time I'll practice your technique first, rather that jumping in on the project piece.
Thanks again,
Chuck
As for process, I think I'd approach it like when cutting a groove with a 248 plow plane:
Start about 18" from where you want to stop the rabbet and cut to the stop point. With each subsequent stroke and as you start to reach full depth at that far end, move your starting point back several inches until you reach the other stop point - i.e., you will reach depth at the far end first and keep moving the full depth point back as you plane. It's reasonably quick and easy in practice. Depending on the grain, you may be able to turn the plane around to complete the corner you backed into (i.e., planning agains the grain - a little tearout in a rabbet is not going to be noticeable) or a chisel can clean it up.
Edited 1/25/2006 11:34 am ET by Samson
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