Could anyony comment on the best tenonig jig for a table saw.
much thanks, Jeremiah
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Replies
The one you make yourself from scrap and it works off your tablesaw fence. Actually I'm more in favor of a slot mortiser which uses floating tenons so you don't need a tenoner. See FWW #141 for a simple one you make yourself. Still available as a back issue.
I have the very heavy older Delta, which I think is still made, but spendy. It works well. Don't know the model number, but it is the one that David Marks uses on his show.
International tools sells it for 99.95. It fits 3/8" x 3/4" mitre slots. Jet also sells one but I didn't get a price on it.
I got mine from Redmond Machinery, Atlanta, ONline for $80 as I recall. Great value I think. Love the solidity of the cast iron when tennoning long rails. You never feel like it's going to get away from you and it doesn't.
Dave of Fla
Build one yourself. Here's a photo of the one I recently built.
If you got the time, I got the beer! Nice work.
Dave of Fla.
Nice job, Ive built a couple of tenoning jigs over the years.If I ever build another I will do one thing differently.I will buy a precision steel angle plate from grizzly.Depending on the weather ,I have found the birch plywood right angle has a tendency to go out of alignment. I check it for square to the table top each time I use it, sometimes I have to shim it very slightly with paper.
TJINFL:
Been dying to see your jig. I'm new to computers and I didn't know how to view your photo you posted. Everyone else commented how well you did. Finally got help to find out you just put the arrow on what-ever you call it and click. I'm kinda dumb. I laughed for a hour at how simple it was. I guess I have been in too many situations where you the hit the wrong button and things go Boom!
Super! Great..Good job. If you don't have a patent may I use your hold down clamp in front idea. My jig I built is similar but uses a Pony metal clamp up front. I don't like the balance, even thought it works fine. That's a good design you got and I don't need it necessarily; but I want one like yours.. Gimme..Gimme..Gimme. heh-heh..
Keep up the great work and have a great day. Don't happen to have a box joint jig as in-novative as that do you. Love to see a picture since I now know to view (dah.)
Sarge..
Sarge, the jig pictured is from a woodsmith or shopnotes plan. I have one just like it. Works well. I have the delta one as well. I find the delta easier to use for angled joinery but the shopnotes woodsmith on wold be pretty easy to modify to make compound angled tenons.
Tom
Tom:
Thanks for the tip on where the jig came from. I had looked at the Delta and it looked solid on the shelf. You really don't know till you put it in the line of fire, though. Both you and John O'Connell recommended it so anyone that ask my opinion on it local I will pass along. That was a beautiful jig in the pic. If you look carefully it's simple enough to see how it's made. I love mine, but that one is a conversation piece.
Again thanks for the info. Anyway I can return the courtesy just ask.
Sarge..
I have the new Delta model and it works well. It is very easy to micro adjust. It is also easy to customize for unusual situations, like angled tenons, or even cuts other than tenons. I also prefer a floating tenon, but that isn't always appropriate.
I would rather be mountain biking.
Jeremiah,
I have both Delta and PowerMatic. The PM works well but I like the Delta better, and the Delta has a anti tip over feature. Both of them are about $100 and can be found in any woodworking store or catalog.
Paul
Delta
John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
Jeremiah,
I'd agree with rsl - build one. Unless you're sure you'll be using it often and it won't just lie around, getting in the way. I built a crosscut sled using a plan from R. J. DeCristoforo's Jigs & Fixtures Bible, and later added a tenoning jig when I wanted to do some slipfeathers on a box. It worked fine for that even though the slots had to be a bit over a saw kerf wide. I haven't used it since but I will the next time I do something with m & t joints. I wouldn't have gone out and bought a jig just for one project - the box would just have gone without the slipfeathers.
HTH,
G
TURNSTYLER:
Agree with RSL and others to build it. I built one FWW #154 and it's very adequate. There design called for 1 lock-down slot once you make micro-adjustment. I found when you did lock it down it raised top plate about 1/32 inch up on opposite side. Added another slot and lock-down on that side and that eliminated problem. Cost about $25 to build as most of cost came from clamp and crank handle from Reid.
Good luck..
Sarge
Lyle Kruger described how to build a sophisticated tenoning jig in FW magazine, issue 93, april, 1992.
Larry Humes, in Methods of Work, in FW magazine described, with drawings, how to build a fine tenoning jig.
I built the Humes model years ago. I have a copy of the page on which it appeared in FW magazine but somehowk the issue and year did not copy. It's a fine jig, not so elegant in appearance as the Kruger version.
Humes was in Everson, Washington at that time; may still be.
Prhaps the clerical staff of FW magazine could turn up the issue and page number.
FWIW
William
Florida
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