Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 19, 2009 08:01pm | #1

   What kind of blade are you using? (brand and model# will tell us the configuration).

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
2. 
   Jimurock | Feb 19, 2009 10:58pm | #2

   I made a zero-clearance plate for my CS, and that eliminated most tearout.  I don't have a crosscut jig, though. The plate fits in a groove on a Blackjack guide, so I can use a similar setup for a router.  Painter's tape does help a bit, though the quality of the plywood may have something to do with the tearout, as well as the blade.

   Jim

1. 
   Donahrens | Feb 20, 2009 04:40am | #3

   Please explain how to make a zero clearance plate for a CS. I am now curious about that!

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 20, 2009 07:02am | #4

   Click here for a rather fancy ZC insert for a circular saw.  My question about the blade isn't an idle one.  Getting clean plywood cuts with a circular saw requires a decent plywood blade.  With that an tape, you should do pretty well, but without the right blade, it's pretty difficult.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   Donahrens | Feb 23, 2009 04:50am | #8

   Thanks! what is that website the article is from? that is a good tip.

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 23, 2009 07:07am | #9

   That was the first time I'd ever been there -- found it with a Google search.  "Suwat's Woodworking Home"   Here's the home page.  There are several articles there which have been featured in various magazines, including one in Fine Woodworking.  I like this one on making a zero-clearance throat plate for a table saw -- one with a replaceable insert.  He's done well with the Ryobi BT3100 (like Sarge used to, before his Steel City saw).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 25, 2009 02:59am | #10

   Forest

   Thanks fer' the Link 'this one'..

   I should have thought of that plastic insert instead of my several sized wooden ones. GREAT LINK! I love it! Hug... Kiss..  OK, if allowed...

3. 
   forestgirl | Feb 25, 2009 03:03am | #11

   Yer welcome WG.  You know, of course, to be careful which plastic you choose. 

   Hubby's not wildly jealous, so you can get away with a short hug.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

4. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 25, 2009 03:30am | #12

   so you can get away with a short hug.. Gee... One hand in my back pocket! Huggs with the other!

2. 
   Jimurock | Feb 20, 2009 07:27am | #5

   Mine isn't fancy.  I use the one shown here, http://store.workshopsupply.com/catalogue/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=18&products_id=2544

   This one comes already fitted with a cleat that runs in a slot on an edge guide, but any piece of plastic-type material would do.  You attach it to the base of your CS, and feed the blade down through it.  Depending on your make of saw you might have to drill a couple of holes in the sawbase if it doesn't already have some, then drill matching holes in the plastic plate for recessed screws.  I had to with my PC.

   Jim

3. 
   MikeHennessy | Feb 20, 2009 03:34pm | #6

   You can make your own easily. Drill and tap 4 holes in the saw base. (Or, if you don't want to tap threads, you can just drill and use nuts on top.) Lift the saw blade all the way up. Screw (with countersunk screws) a thin piece of ply to the saw base through your new holes. (Think router base plate.) With the saw in a safe place (so the blade won't cut anything underneath it), turn on the saw and lower it through the ply. Done.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

4. 
   gatordoc | Feb 25, 2009 06:34am | #14

   Fine Homebuilding just posted a video on zero clearance plate for a CS. Just go to the home page and you'll see the link (or use this: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/Videos/Index.aspx?id=105422)Cheers,
   Gatordoc

1. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 25, 2009 04:11pm | #16

   Fine Homebuilding just posted a video on zero clearance plate for a CS..

   Is CS a chain saw?

1. 
   gatordoc | Feb 26, 2009 05:39am | #23

   CS is a circular saw I hope. Although I like the idea of a zero clearance plate on my chain saw. Maybe I'll try it this weekend. Or maybe not...
   Gatordoc

3. 
   bones | Feb 20, 2009 05:44pm | #7

   Not knowing what your blade is and if you are willing to spend some money, I would suggest the Forrest WWI 7 1/4" blade.  I've got that in my PC CS and no tear. If you are going to be cutting a lot of ply, this is worth the money. I have the 10" in my TS(WWII), and RAS(WWI).  Love em. 

    

   http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW07Q607100-Woodworker-Tooth-Circular/dp/B000OMQGBQ/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1235140885&sr=1-11

   Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases:
   If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
   And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
   
4. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 25, 2009 03:51am | #13

   TS blade cuts down.. The Skill saw cuts up! As I remember.. I could be wrong!

5. 
   AZMO | Feb 25, 2009 04:10pm | #15

   There is an interesting article in Pop Woodworking about Festool, Dewalt and other guided plunge saws this month. Apparently the Festool saw has a slight twist to it, just enough so that the carbide tips do not rub against one side of the cut. The only side contact is with the very tip of the carbide. Not sure if that is true and only read the article once.

   That said my Festool is amazing for plywood. Good Baltic birch is left with only a little fuzz at the top. Cheap imported ply from Home Repo splinters, because the top layer is micro thin, is ill glued to the substrate, and has voids in the layers underneath. If you try a Festool, you might not want to let go, and they cost as much as a table saw...

   AZMO

                     

   -----------_o

   ---------_'-,>

   -------(*)/ (*)   http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com

6. 
   Bobmr | Feb 25, 2009 04:15pm | #17

   You didn't say if you were sawing from the back side of the plywood?

1. 
   Donahrens | Feb 25, 2009 05:08pm | #18

   Same on both sides actually. It is from Home Depot but not baltic birch but the more pricey poplar ply.

1. 
   Bobmr | Feb 25, 2009 08:43pm | #21

   Goes to show that I am behind the times. Great question with alot of good informtion. Thanks.Bob

1. 
   Donahrens | Feb 25, 2009 08:57pm | #22

   I love this Knots Forum! I swear I learn more on FWW and FHB forums than I do from my mistakes! Thanks all for the valuable info all the time.Don

7. 
   piker | Feb 25, 2009 06:30pm | #19

   With the crappy plywood being manufactured these days, I find it almost impossible to crosscut without some tearout - either on my tablesaw or my slider, with good blades on both & a zero clearance throat plate on the table saw. Birch seems to be the worst & the chinese stuff is impossible. I got so frustrated in the middle of a 4 unit, built-in run of wall units I sent a snottygram to the Canadian Plywood Mfr.'s Assoc., & was then directed to call their president who is the CEO of the Canadian div. of Columbia Forest Products (who manufctured the stuff I was using), in Quebec. After he realized I was a one man shop (rather than a factory) he was very understanding & agreed they were cutting corners to stay somewhat competitive with the import plywood. Face veneer thickness is like tissue paper (measured it with a digital caliper but can't remember), compared to some older scraps left in my shop. One of my local suppliers arranged a visit with their wholesaler where they gave me a nice tour of the warehouse, moved stacks of plywood for viewing, explained all the grade stampings & showed me plywood that never gets to our local lumber yards because of the retail price! They then showed me what ALL the commercial cabinet shops are buying - 5/8" MDF with a tissue paper thin face veneer!  Short of upgrading to a new saw with a scoring blade, I guess I'll have to continue as I have been, scoring the cut line, masking tape, a scoring cut with blade lowered, or all of the above. Really frustrating.

8. 
   Dave45 | Feb 25, 2009 06:42pm | #20

   Try cutting the ply from the back (i.e. upside down).

   If you're cutting with the good side up, the blade rotation brings the teeth up against the veneer and it pulls away (splinters) since there's no support to stop it.

   Cutting upside down, has the teeth cutting the veneer in a direction that is supported and it won't splinter (or you'll see much less splintering)

   Also, make sure that you're using a sharp blade with a high tooth count.

   Finally, don't expect perfect cuts with a circular saw no matter how good your jig may be. You're moving it by hand and there will always be a slight amount of "wobble" - especially when you stop pushing and shift your feet.

9. 
   art_brazee | Feb 26, 2009 11:27pm | #24

   Many of these posts have been right on, but there is a way no one mentioned. When it absolutely, positively, has to have no tear-out a router works the best. A spiral downcut will produce no tear-out whatsoever. There are obvious downsides, but if tear-out is the issue it can be solved with a router. (I know this from a big problem with vertical grain fir plywood, which is a nightmare.)