Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 21, 2009 04:58am | #1

   I'd recommend the schedule that I've used on the teak garden bench that sit in my back yard.  1.  Apply epoxy to the ground contact surfaces until fully saturated.  2. After the epoxy has cured, set down and watch the sunset over the marsh. 3. When important company is coming scrub them a bit with soap and water.  They turn an elegant grey that way. The scrub is all the maintenance that is needed. 

   The fight to have them looking like newsawn teak instead of natural teak is never ending, always requires sanding because you tend to refinish only after you notice some break in the finish where the wood has turned grey.  You might avoid much sanding if you use an oil product if you can religiously use it several times a season.  If you never have a bad season you might not have to sand. 

    

    

1. 
   Quickstep | Jul 21, 2009 07:35pm | #2

   There aren't a lot of subjects on this forum where I feel really well versed, but teak and the outdoors is one where I think I have some expertise. So, let me share my opinion: Steve is right. Unless you've got nothing better to do than tend varnish or you've got wreckless sums of money to pay someone to maintain your outdoor teak, you can't win at this game. The only solution I've ever found is to make a cover out of Sunbrella.

2. 
   Don01 | Jul 21, 2009 07:45pm | #3

   Chris,
   I have been dabbling in teak a bit over the past couple of years. A friend asked me to make up some replacement parts for her sailboat.
   I have done a bit of research and am now building up some experiences that certainly are applicable to the effect of climate around Edmonton, AB on exterior finishes.
   I would not, under any circumstances, use any type of penetrating oil unless you have access to something that is very UV resistent. The elements, together with teaks natural tendency to not be easily penetrated, results in a less than satisfactory finish. As Steve points out you will be reapplying constantly.
   Leaving the wood au natural is ok if that is what you want. But if you have to roll up your sleeves and wash every thing down for presentation purposes, then why not attempt to minimize that activity.
   Here is what I have learned mostly from the boat folks.
   1. No one is really sure if an acetone wash prior to gluing or finishing has any advantage over sanding off the surface.
   2. Refinishing is at least an annual activity.
   Some of the frustration boaters have is they cannot easily move the work into a controlled environment, so weather and access to the wood parts becomes a limiting factor.
   I did some work with Sikkens Cetol Marine last year. The pieces did not see any real exposure tot he elements so I won't know until next year. I am building a table /bed support and have applied a primer/bonder XIM Flashbond 400 first. This is used to enhance adhesion of paint to steel in the autobody industry. It takes a little longer (3-4 days) for the first coat of varnish to dry. I also thinned the Sikkens down to 50% for the first few coats.
   A local boat builder recommends the ePifanes line. His experience (not with teak) is the the Sikkens material tends to flake off requiring resanding. The ePifanes product adheres better and tends to wear rather than flake or peel. Reapplication requires only that you thoroughly clean the piece, dry then reapply. ePifanes also recommend thinning to 50% for the first one or 2 coats.
   That is what I know today. In your part of the world there should be no shortage of experience or products.
   Hope this windy response is of some help.

   Don

3. 
   roc | Jul 22, 2009 07:15am | #4

   I never made such a cool thing but I was much impressed with Norm's deck chair when I saw this episode

   http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0212

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )