Replies

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Apr 27, 2003 08:41pm | #1

   Tapering legs depends on what tools you've got.  Me, I taper them by striking a line and cutting to it with a bandsaw.  Then I remove the saw marks with a jointer.   To taper more than 2 sides, I catch the off-cut and tape it back on to the leg blank so that the next taper cut is correct.   If you're cutting mortises on the leg, it is much easier to cut them before you taper the leg.   Before you make the taper, you have nice straight faces to help guide whatever mortising technique you use. 

1. 
   davamoore | Apr 27, 2003 10:51pm | #4

   Jamie, probably six of one, half dozen of the other, but when I cut my tapers on the bandsaw, rather than retrieve the offcut and tape it back on, I usually stop the cut about a half-inch from the bottom, back it out and start the next cut.  I keep stopping short of the last half-inch until I'm at the last taper on that leg (the second if two sides taper, the third if three sides taper, etc.).  I then cut the last taper off completely, and then go back and finish the rest.

   David"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad

2. 
   lostarrow | Apr 27, 2003 09:53pm | #2

   thomharm;

   If you're using a tapering jig on the TS ,cut two adjoining tapers on each leg. Then reset the jig to double the amount of taper and run the remaining two sides with the previous tapers against the jig.

3. 
   prman | Apr 27, 2003 10:39pm | #3

   On most tables, the only portion of the legs that are tapered is the outside of the legs. As mentioned earlier, if you are using a mortise joint do them first and then do the taper.

1. 
   davamoore | Apr 27, 2003 10:55pm | #5

   pr, I wouldn't go so far as to say that most table legs taper on the outside faces.  Some do, but many times the inside two faces -- which is where the mortises are on a four-legged, apron-in-leg style table -- are the ones that are tapered.  The end result is a square-looking table that still has a certain lightness about it. 

   Tapering the outside edges tends to give a look that is a bit "tippy-toed"-- which is perfectly appropriate for some styles, too.  Dining table legs are also often tapered on the outside edges, to give knees and feet just that extra little bit of room.

   At the end of the day, where you taper depends on the style, function, etc.

   David"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad

1. 
   WilliamHF | Apr 27, 2003 11:30pm | #6

   I keep being puzzled that more woodworkers don't use the joiner to taper legs.

   Simple, Easy.

   WilliamI make something, sometimes twice, each year.

1. 
   davamoore | Apr 27, 2003 11:58pm | #8

   William, I use the jointer as my second stop in making the tapers:

   -- bandsaw first

   -- primary clean-up with the jointer

   -- touch-up with handplane and/or card scraper

   For me, this process is fast and easy.  But there's always another way.

   David"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad

1. 
   Thom1 | Apr 29, 2003 03:08am | #14

   As you may all know, there is a method for using Only the jointer.  You just put a stop on the infeed table, so the leg rests mostly on the infeed, but an amount equal to that you want parallel rests on the out feed.  Witht he leg raised off the table,start the jointer, then incline forward the piece until it is resting mostly on the infeed partly on the outfeed, and push the piece through.  A repeated series of cuts will taper the leg.  Repeatable, and keeps the leg smooth at you go. 

   You might want to try out the process with a wide board on edge, to get used to the plunge cutting routine, and also to get a feel for the shape you will get.  When you first drop the board on, there will be a light radius where the cut statrs, just short of the uppermost point.  You need to account for this, so that cutting it back won't cut back into your mortised section.  A practice piece will make all these issues clear. 

   Since this method indexes off the surface being cut, you can cut as many faces as you want without worrying about off cuts, and indexes.  You can also see the taper develop, which may be more or less that you imagined once you are looking at it in the wood species sellected.

   It is easy with this metod to ensure you keep your fingers well away from the broad being cut, so be sure to work all that out before you switch the machine on.  It will probably help you use a magnetic hold to hold the fence open just enough so it doesn't require your hand every time you start the plunge.

   Just finished doing a batch of wide tenons on the jointer, quite a versatile machine really

2. 
   thomharm | Apr 28, 2003 12:56am | #10

   What is proper way on the joiner? On the planner , and table saw , you got to change the jig to get the other two legs, right?

2. 
   prman | Apr 27, 2003 11:55pm | #7

   My head was not in the proper position when I advised you on the placement of the tapered legs. I hang my head in shame. The beauty of this forum is there will always be some one to pick up the pieces and put things right.

1. 
   davamoore | Apr 28, 2003 12:00am | #9

   pr, NO SHAME!  When you mentioned, in the second half of the sentence (I believe), that one should cut the mortises before doing the taper (excellent advice, by the way), that made me think that you'd only mis-typed.  (An apron would look a little silly sticking out from a table, wouldn't it?!)

   Sorry if it looked like I'd pounced on you!  No pounce intended.

   David"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad

4. 
   jmc | Apr 28, 2003 01:23am | #11

   Why don't you try using the center of the leg as your reference.  When tapering all four sides I make a jig with a center point on the jig. I use a dowel centering point but you could also use a screw. Push the screw into the end of the leg and put a fence and clamp further up on the base.  Then just cut each taper and rotate for the next cut.  This saves all the "tape the offcut back on" stuff.  I made a different jig for each project but the really industrious could make a point that slides back and forth to cut different tapers.  Hope this helps.

   John

1. 
   joker | Apr 28, 2003 11:48pm | #13

   Yours is the type I use. I saw it in a Shop Notes or WoodSmith, I believe, a while back. It rides in the miter slot in the table saw. I did make mine with the stop a little shy of the edge of the sled, that way I can use a shim to accomodate a little difference size in legs.

   I tried the adjustable tapereing jig, the aluminum one that is common,  but I could not get the taper to match well without alot of fussing. I agree that being able to register off of center makes it alot easier, for me anyway.

5. 
   kenewald | Apr 28, 2003 07:08pm | #12

   I made the tablesaw taper jig illustrated in FWW.  It works fine on short legs or tablesaws with a long table/fence.  I like the planer/joiner method.  Just seems like alot of setup and wood cutting.

   I made a walnut aquarium table 3' tall, legs tapered 1' from bottom on all 4 sides and used a radial arm saw w/ finishing blade, 2 small blocks and 2 clamps.  Clamped the blocks as guides on each edge of the table, then ran all the legs through the same setting.  Setup was quick and I didn't need a jig.  I had those legs tapered w/ 16 cuts and no sanding.

   -Ken (Palmyra, NE)