Replies

1. 
   Samson | Feb 22, 2010 07:35pm | #1

   With a plane. If it's a significant taper, you might saw first, and use the plane to clean up and refine.  Or you could start with a drawknife. 

2. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 22, 2010 08:18pm | #2

   You do not say what tools you do have available for your work.

   I have cut 200 or so tapered fence posts with a old Skill-Saw (carpenters 'electric' hand saw) with a good quality blade that required little clean-up. A metal or wood guide helps alot!

   I find that I can cut a very straight line following a knife mark with a common Japanese pull saw. If you practice a bit, on starting the cut straight along height of the blade, the saw will follow that path very well.  A plane or a sandpaper block will do the rest. A good plane would be better for the true-up.

   I use planes but I am hardly one, anyone would call an expert on using one. Planing to a line is not that hard.

   You can get a 'reasonable' quality Japaneese saw without a back brace for about $20/30. I love em! They work VERY well but the teeth on a Japanese saw do NOT like knots> Take my word for it...

   I also have a very old Stanely rip saw (grandfathers carpenters saw) that works really well but the kerf is a bit wide. It has been sharpened so many times it looks nothing like a 'standard' carpenters saw anymore.

   Anyway... Get some reasonable quality scrap wood to practice a bit on before you start on the expensive wood. The wood need not be anything special. Just practice following a long line. I hope I have not steared you down a endless path but I do think that whatever tool you finally use it will take a bit of practice.. As get close to that 'comfort zone' with a tool.

    'comfort zone'  does not mean being a so called expert. Just comfortable with what it does with wood. Be aware that a different wood may react a bit different.

3. 
   salamfam | Feb 24, 2010 09:23am | #3

   Hello Tom,

   I have done this many times with a hand plane. Simply square up your stock and cut your joinery, then mark out your taper on all sides to be tapered and have at it with a good sharp #5 or #6. As you get close to your lines(1/64 to 1/32) switch to a #4 smother. If you only have one plane, do the entire job with it. Start on the end that requires the most stock removal and work your way to the feather. It is a lot easier than you think. If you have some way to cut close to the line, (band saw, skill saw, hand saw) the task becomes a walk in the park; all that is left is some clean up. Of course a jointer will work well also, but I don't assume you have one. If you don't have a good hand plane, now might be a good time to acquire one. Give it a shot and enjoy the fruits of your efforts.