Ok
I am looking to make some table legs, I have seen them done but they seem like a real pain to produce. They are tapered and hallow with beveled 45 degree edges. they look solid but are much lighter. They seem to be made from one solid piece of wood so the grain that goes around the edge.
If you an understand what i am asking any ideas?
Replies
Do you have an example to point to, a photo or a web site perhaps?
-Steve
I dont right off hand, but think about 4 pieces of wood that are 4" wide by 1/2 inch thick and 3 feet long. Now put a 45 degree angle down each of the long sides and glue em all back up.
Now the trick is to get the 4 pieces off wood from a solid 4x4 (only taking the outside edges) and now taper them.
I will look for an example. hope this helps with the visual
Wouldn't it be better to taper the pieces as you cut them before glue-up?Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
Assuming that the leg you describe starts to taper below the apron, I'd do this by gluing up 4 pieces, mitered as you suggest, but thick enough so you could cut the taper AFTER gluing up the blank, leaving the side stock 1/2" thick at the bottom, narrow end after cutting the taper. How thick that is depends on the severity of your taper and the length of the leg. Should be pretty easy to figure out. You could try to make the blank tapered and then square up the top (apron) section, but that would require insanely straight and accurate angles on both the rips and the miters -- certainly not something I'd try in the average home shop. (Not that it couldn't be done -- just that the corners would be hard to get tight all around. Unless you're very good with a jointer plane?)
Glue-ups like this are not easy. You need laser straight stock and VERY accurate miters. You clamp by wrapping tape or rubber bands around the glued-up blank. You may find it helpful to use biscuits to keep the corners aligned during glue-up.
Hope this helps.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
You're absolutely right on all accounts...I stand corrected. :^)Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
"You're absolutely right on all accounts"
Nope. After reading Steve's post and giving it some more thought, what I suggested would't work if the legs were tapered on only two sides (since you'd cut into the miter unevenly), so I'm wrong.
After further consideration, the solution can be summed up in one word: veneer. ;-)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
That sort of construction is fairly common in Arts & Crafts furniture, although the leg is made from four separate boards, not cut out of one large post. A typical reason for doing it is to have quartersawn grain showing on all four surfaces.
It's common to use some kind of lock-miter arrangement to keep the pieces aligned during glue-up:
View Image
Tapering such a leg is an additional challenge: You have to ensure that each side of the leg is tapered by exactly the same amount to keep the glue lines along the miter joints. And, of course, you have to position the lock-miter joints so that you don't cut into them when you cut the tapers.
-Steve
You might try looking at some of the wooden boat building websites. Some sail boat masts are hollow and made from a build of separate pieces. Good luck.
WoodLess
Whiskey,
You need a tablesaw which is dead-on accurate, and a jig to cut a tapered rip while the blade is at 45°. A slider is a great advantage here. Do a trial run to check that both the bevel and the taper is right. Make the legs a good few inches longer than final length, to cut off later.
Your stock is crucial to getting the continuous look. The best starting point is a wide board, wide enough to rip all the leg parts from the same piece, therefore giving the outside grain a completely continuous look. If that's not possible, then grain-match the parts as best you can. The stock must be dead flat, because your 45° bevelled rip must be perfect all the way along, on every cut. Again, a slider with a hold-down is a great help on this; I probably wouldn't attempt it without one.
The glue-up is the simplest part. Lay strips of tape on the table, sticky side up. Place all 4 parts of the leg on their backs over the tape, with the corners just touching. Spread glue and wrap up the package, pulling the tape tight as you go. Wrap additional tape as needed to close any gaps that might appear. You absolutely do not need any biscuits or lock miters to get a perfect and solid leg. If the tablesaw work was perfect, it will all come together like a dream.
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
http://www.josephfusco.org/Calculators/Box_cutter.htmlThe calculator will give you the angles you need to make the cuts that ring described.
Hallowed be thy Legs...
I've been making percussion instruments (congas, ashiko's etc)
for a few years and maybe Some of it is relevant.
I typically am making 16 sided cones of different shapes and sizes.
So the beveled side angle must be perfect, and the taper must
be true.
I make a simple taper jig for the TS, with hold downs. One side has the first cut and the other has the second (with the increased angle due to
the first). Keeping the saw at 90 degrees.
Then I run both sides of every piece through my Router table with
the appropriate angled chamfer bit. Perfect angle every time, but
watch your fingers on the narrow end.
To clamp I cut "rings" to slide down from the narrow end and seat
at different points on the piece. A couple of hammer taps draws it in
nicely.
I usually spline my pieces (They tend to get beat on) and it does
seam to help assembly.
Edited 5/2/2008 8:11 am ET by Henley
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