Hi —
I’m well into building a tack trunk for my daughter. As shown in attached photo, it will be a frame and panel design (plywood panels no shown — will be glued for structural integrity). Frame joints are all sliding dovetail. Though hard to see the dividing line, top is 5″ and top rail is 2 3/4″.
Question: Most tack trunks seem to use piano hinge, but word around the barn is that they often fail. Need pros and cons for piano hinge vs. butt hinges (or another solution). Also, welcome any other advice on making the lid system as durable as possible.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Ken
Replies
My wife's tack trunk had a piano hinge that worked great for close to thirty years. We sold it to some little girl, who will probably use it for another thirty. Piano hinges, if installed well, will last a lifetime. The ones on my hundred year old upright sure have stood the test of time. Install it with confidence my friend.
Definitely piano hinges. Brass..( Not brass plated) 3/4" x 3/4"
Steinmetz.
I used a piano hingo on my daughter's one for strength. The key is to use good lid stays (one at leach end), so the lid can't flop back and overextend the hinge. Like the other poster, I used a good-quality, brass hinge (not plated)
Thanks to all for the clear advice -- high quality solid brass piano hinge well mounted.Two quick follow-up questions: Is the Rockler solid brass hinge of adequate quality? (see attached for spec)? If not, what's missing?Also, anything to solid mounting beyond the obvious.Much thanks again for all the help.Ken
Piano hinges for real pianos, that I have seen, are thicker than the 40thou Rockler. But for your application I would think that the Rockler piano hinge would be fine provided they are well made (consistent dimensions, good pin fit, good finish and correct size screw holes with matching countersink. I haven't ever seen a Rockler hinge apart from the link you provide.
It is 6 of one and half a dozen of the other when both types are good quality- does an almost full length of piano hinge appeal more than say two or three well fitted butt hinges?
Re "anything to solid mounting": 1) use solid brass screws with pilot holes of suitable size-and use candle wax when installing-then there will be no need to do the job twice by driving steel ones first then the brass... Or you could use steel antiqued screws that are threaded all the way if you like the look-the advantage is in the added holding power if you are using butts. 2) Does the lid overhang at the back?Philip Marcou
Ken, When first attaching the piano hinge, just install a few screws and try to open and close while watching for accurate positioning when closed.
If your tack trunk opens from left to right, (Hinge stands vertically)
you most likely don't need further reinforcing beyond the screws.
If the lid opens upward, ( hinged horizontally)you might remove a few wood screws and substitute through bolted flat or oval head brass machine screws and nuts and if the wood is too thin, add a strip of reinforcing on the inside. (Wood or metal)Before marking for the piano hinge, place a strip of paper board along the abutting lid edges to provide for clearance and prevent pinching.I tape the whole box together and tape the hinge in place Using a small counter sink,(or a center finding bit, 'spot' the holes, then drill under sized holes for each screw. If you need to deter anyone from removing the screws to gain entry, you can remove some bolts and file their heads down below their slots.Good luck Dad and Daughter, Steinmetz.Edited 8/30/2008 11:38 am ET by SteinmetzEdited 8/30/2008 6:56 pm ET by Steinmetz
Edited 8/30/2008 6:57 pm ET by Steinmetz
how is your tack trunk holding up?
Hi Ken,
I'm also building a tack trunk for my daughter, kind of like how you have (style/rail w plywood field material, I assume to reduce weight). I'm curious how it has held up?
Thanks, Scott
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