Hello all,
The joy that I have had for woodworking is turning into a dread. Knowing that everytime I go out into the shop I’ll more likely spend more time sweeping and shop-vac’ing up dust than actual woodworking….well alot of people hopefuly know the way I feel.
By any measure at all, my cabinet saw is the main culprit. I have a good “setup” for my planer, 8″ jointer, bandsaw and disc sander so I’m not to annoyed by those.
My thought is to run a dust collector like the Grizzly G1029Z 2HP w/1550 CFM with the “Y” attachement to run 2 hoses. Sending one hose to the bottom dust port in the cabinet saw and then running the second hose to an overhead blade guard dust collector like the EXACTOR EXOA-2.
Since this would be my first venture with a true “dust collection” “system” I figured I would run this idea by those who have dealt with dust collection to see if this “plan” is worth following through with. Perhaps theres a better way…I’m not really sure?
Any thoughts about additional options or recommendations on the equipment and/or models would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks all!
Eric
Replies
Eric,
Your plan is a good one. I've done essentially the same thing (though with a cyclone, not a bagged dust collector).
At first I just had the collection hose hooked up to the cabinet's dust port. The real improvement came when I bought and installed a Penn State over-blade guard and dust collection device.
In thinking about this, my feeling is that the sawdust that falls into the cabinet by and large stays there. I know there are exceptions, and that some of the fine particles come out through the holes in the cabinet.
But the stuff that's most irritating - and the stuff that's hardest to collect - is that which is thrown off the blade above the table. Worse, it occurs just about at mouth level, so even a small amount is going to be inhale-able, if that's word. And the fine particles that you don't ingest immediately will float around your shop for hours until your lungs finally filter them out of the air.
So, in short, good plan. You'll be amazed at how much difference it will make in the time you spend in your shop...
Zolton
If you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon
Eric
Recommend that you get a dust collector with a cartridge filter. The bag will actually make the air worse in your shop than it is now. The cartridge costs a bit more but it's worth it.
Hey David,
Excuse my ignorance on the subject...by the canister-type of dust collector you are recommending...these are the ones with the large canister filter on the top instead of another bag correct?
I 've read several posts on numerous manufacturers sites and spoke with people that are essentially saying the same thing...the 2.5 micron bag on top just doesn't cut it. It may decrease the notable amount of time you spend sweeping but the dust hangs in the air for hours...at least until you breath it all in!
I'm also assuming the filter on the top is also the reason that a slightly less HP has a significant drop in CFM as next to one with a bag with lots more CFM and only a bit more HP?
I thank you for your advice...
Eric
The canister collectors are actually far more efficient than their "bag" brothers.
For most "bag" collectors, they lose CFM as the bottom bag fills. This is because most of the bag units breathe through both the top and bottom bag. As the bag fills, you lose surface area - thus CFM. The griz model you're looking at does not use a breathable bottom bag so this doesn't apply.
Canister collectors provide more filter surface area than their "bag" brothers and they do a better job filtering out the fine dust particles - the true hidden danger of wood working.
For the Griz bag collector, model G1029Z, their CFM rating is 1550 and filter to 2.5 microns. For the Griz Canister collector, model G0548, their CFM rating is 1700 CFM and a 1 micron filter. They also state that their canister has "...6 times the filtering area of regular bags..."
Honestly, there is no way their CFM ratings represent real-world performance. I'd bet that these CFM measurements were taken at the impeller. Attach two 4"x 10' pipes and you'll only be getting around 400 CFM to each port... and that is assuming peak performance. Also keep in mind that any 2 HP unit will require 220V service.
As for an overhead blade guard dust collector, they make a huge difference. You cannot expect them to catch everything... but they will come pretty close. I purchased one a few months ago and I am amazed in the improvement in my air quality and how much dust it captures.
I was thinking of getting one for my SS. Did you have to modify the table where it mounts? Thanks,Peter
Better life through Zoodles and poutine...
No mods necessary. It went together with no problems. I downloaded the manual before I purchased it. It can be downloaded at http://www.general.ca/excalibur/pagemach/ang/50_EXBC.html
I purchased it through Tools-plus.com (also where I got my Excalibur sliding table). The blade guard was $355.50 - and that includes the shipping!
Thank you.
Better life through Zoodles and poutine...
Peter, I got your email. You'll love it. It made an amazing difference in the amount of dust my air cleaner has to pull out. I'm sure all the brands do a great job. I just went with the excalibur because I have previous "positive" experience with their stuff.
Cheers,
T
Pleated filter canisters have a lot more filter surface area in a compact profile than filter bags. Having said that the downside is they clog quickly. Dust and larger particles get caught in the pleats and impede airflow. Also, they lose effectiveness after repeated use as the back pressure eventually causes what is known as "blow back" that is, the pressure actually forces particles through the filter thus enlarging the microscopic mesh. And the filter then need replacement. I think a better solution for the portable dust collector unit is custom bags made by American fabric filter. The singed felt goes down to 1 micron and the dust cake is easily beaten off the bag from time to time.
Hi TedThat is exactly the reason to build a DC baffle. It will nearly eliminate the clogged filter issues. I have gone months before having to clean my filter, and only then because I let the bag get too full. I just emptied my DCs bag on Sunday, after a long session of using the Performax sander. There was only a faint coloring of fine dust on the pleats but mostly clean fabric.David B
Where did you purchase the sliding table, and is it a good investment?
I purchased it at Tools-plus.com about 4 or 5 years ago. At the time, I had a smaller shop and I needed a space saving way to handle many of my cross-cuts. Since then, I now have a bigger table saw and a 989 SF garage... so space isn't the issue it once was.
Is it a good investment? IMHO, yes. I actually tried to live without it when I purchased my new saw. To my credit, I think I made it 4 or 5 months! However, there were too many operations (dados for example) that are easier and much safer to do - if you have a sliding table. As a result, I whipped out my hacksaw and removed the left rail and table from my lovely TS. I've never looked back.
Here is a pic of the other side.
Thanks, great photo.
Hi EricYes, I was referring to a dust collector with a canister filter on top and a plastic bag on the bottom.There are really three things that you can do to get maximum performance out of a standard dust collector:1)Install a really good pleated canister filter.
2)Use 6" hose instead of 4". You will literally get more than twice as much suction.
3)Make a baffle for the inside of the dust collector. It will keep the filter clean and working much better. You can make one from scrap plywood in an hour. It's kind of a poor man's cyclone and it works incredibly well. There is a discussion forum for the baffle. Here's a link with photos:
http://www.cgallery.com/smf/index.php?topic=71.0David B
One problem with your comment "...Use 6" hose instead of 4". You will literally get more than twice as much suction..."
He wouldn't be able to connect his TS and a overarm blade/collector:0)
"One problem with your comment "...Use 6" hose instead of 4". You will literally get more than twice as much suction..."He wouldn't be able to connect his TS and a overarm blade/collector:0)"Good point. I actually use a 6" duct into the cab saw and a Shark Guard with dedicated shop vac, exhausting back into the 6" duct. Works pretty darn well and fits much better into my cramped space.David B
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled