Replies

1. 
   scooter1 | Dec 13, 2003 01:05am | #1

   Delta's is OK, but not great. It came in a standard kerf size, and I found out after the fact. I use small kerf blades, so it is worthless to me.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

2. 
   forestgirl | Dec 13, 2003 02:54am | #2

   Chuck, I have the Merlin on my older Jet contractor saw.  If I had a choice, I would rather have the Biesemeyer, for two reasons:  The Beis is a little easier to "be rid of" than the Merlin (drops below the table rather than having to be taken off) and the Merlin sometimes won't go over far enough for a 45* bevel cut without some fussing.

   That being said, the Merlin has performed extremely well for the ripping I do, which has all been regular 90* ripping.  It's on there solid as a rock, and I can bump it with stock and it stays lined up.  It also retains alignment when removed and replaced repeatedly.    This is somewhat surprising, since it isn't even made specifically for my saw -- saw is too old.  I did a little creative engineering and got it installed.  Very happy with it.

   forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

1. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 13, 2003 05:07am | #3

   I made my own by planing a piece of white oak down to kerf thickness.  Have it installed on my 10" Rockwell contractors saw.  Required a couple of brass shims to get it aligned with the blade.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

1. 
   BrianMcG | Dec 15, 2003 08:22am | #9

   Hi Planewood!, I'm assuming your throat plate is a shop made wooden one? Did you just glue the splitter to the throat plate?

   I'm afraid I run my saw without a guard or splitter ( I Know I Know!!) but want to change this situation. I'm considering HTC, Merlin etc.....

   Thanks, Brian

1. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 15, 2003 09:43pm | #10

   Brian -

   No, my original aluminum plate has a opening behind the blade for a splitter.  There is a bracket underneath the table for bolting the splitter in place.  It's an old Rockwell 10" contractors saw.  About 30-35 years old.

   I have made zero clearance plates out of wood (Mahogany) with such a slot.

   Besides reducing kickback, use of a splitter will result in cleaner cuts.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

1. 
   Elcoholic | Dec 15, 2003 11:41pm | #11

   I have the Beis on a Jet cabinet saw.  The pawls were more trouble than they are worth so I cut them off so there's just the shark fin.  Left to my own devices, if I ever need a thin kerf spliiter I'd get some scrap 1/8" T6 aluminum and thinkness it to match the blade above the throat plate and use the steel one as a template.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

3. 
   user-91204 | Dec 14, 2003 04:30am | #4

   I have the Beis. I like it. You can use it with an outfeed table much better than the other models. Just pop it in or out.

1. 
   Chuck1033 | Dec 14, 2003 04:41am | #5

   Thanks Terry--I think I will go with the Biesemeyer. It's sturdier but cant use a thin kerf blade with it, but I can take it out then.  Thanks, Chuck.

1. 
   forestgirl | Dec 14, 2003 06:56am | #7

   Terry's point was an excellent one -- I'm glad he brought it up.  One possible option for when you have to remove the Beis -- you can drill a hole in your tablesaw insert and place a "pin" of the appropriate size for a splitter.  Or even a thin wooden wedge.forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

1. 
   Chuck1033 | Dec 14, 2003 11:05am | #8

   Thanks Forestgirl--I read that one in Kelly Mehlers text on table saw book.  A good idea.  And simple too.  Chuck.

2. 
   forestgirl | Dec 14, 2003 06:54am | #6

   Terry, I hadn't thought about the outfeed table factor, as I've not made one (yet).  Good point!!!!  Will give me something to think about when the time comes.forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

4. 
   billsams | Dec 17, 2003 01:38am | #12

   Chuck, something else that Kelly told me (which I have done) is to buy the Felder splitter and the plastic guard that attaches the splitter, all for a total of less than $100. The guard removes with a simple hand bolt, has a 2" duct collection port.

   The splitter has to be redrilled to adapt for your saw, no bit deal, I did this for my general saw. It doesn't pop in and out like others but it's great improvement from having no splitter at all.

   Bill

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Dec 17, 2003 01:50am | #13

   BillSams,

   You said for your "general saw."  Is that as in a General 350?  If so, can you tell me a little more about what you did with the Felder splitter?

   I have a General 350 and would like to upgrade the splitter.  Any info you can provide would be appreciated.

   Thanks,

   Alan -- planesaw

1. 
   billsams | Dec 17, 2003 02:11pm | #15

   Alan, yes it was for the general 350.  The felder splitter has a long curved slot for attaching to the felder saw, so you have to drill a 3/8" offset hole for the general bolt. You will also have to cut off some of the bottom of the splitter and slightly notch for the table insert to fit under. If you send me your email address I will send you a photo which  will explain it all much clearer.

   On http://www.felder.com website they have 3 thicknesses of splitter, I went with the middle thickness, but if you use thin kerf blades you will need the thinner of the three.

   Bill

2. 
   Chuck1033 | Dec 17, 2003 03:23am | #14

   Thanks, BillSams, I'll look into it. With appreciation, Chuck.