I may have mentioned this problem before but I am getting to the age where my memory is only good for a few weeks. I have an old Sears Craftsman 10″ table saw (circa 1930’s) which has served me well for many years. I have been able to maintain it myself but a recent problem has arisen which I do now know how to diagnose or treat.
The blade raising mechanism seems to be binding somehow, almost to the point of freezing. At low blade heights, the crank handle is almost impossible to move unless I use a large pipe wrench on the crank handle to turn it. At higher blade heights I don’t have as much problem. As far as I can see into the TS mechanism, the height adjustment handle turns a shaft which goes through some “unidentifiable” device then continues as a screw which engages the trunion gear which raises or lowers the blade. I have tried lubricating the screw gear but that doesn’t help. I did notice what looked like grease fittings on the trunion but they were not part of the blade raising mechanisms.
I am open to any suggestion on what to do including the option of taking the saw in for repair at a suitable shop. Unfortunately, I do not know what kinds of places would work on old machines like this. Sears does not offer any support in this area.
Edited 4/5/2007 7:07 pm ET by jrogerh
Replies
You need to do a serious degunking of the mechanism. Get a brass toothbrush, spray the screw down with WD40 and scrub! When you're done, lube the threads with wax. Oil attracts all kind of debris.
Dick
I agree with rwdare, you may be in need of a serious cleaning. Pay particular attention to the areas where there is metal on metal contact; your gibs and/or track areas and the threaded rods. Over time sawdust and pitch will accumulate in these areas and cranking your saw height and tilt becomes a real bear.
It's not likely that you have a bearing problem, you'll only find them in the trunnion. The moving parts in the other areas either have bushings or metal on metal contact. Clean these areas and then wax them real well or use a dry graphite.
I have an old Craftsman with a separate tightening mechanism to hold the blade in position. Sometimes I forget to break it loose before moving the blade.
Good luck.
Edited 4/6/2007 8:59 am ET by RonT
Thanks to everyone for their ideas. I will clean and put some more dry lubricant on the screw gear (again) but I really think what I have is an access problem. I can't see the area where the real problem is. The only solution I can think of is to dismantle the saw, remove the table, whatever is necessary to see all the mechanisms involved. The idea of having to realign everything when I put it back together is not encouraging. This is why I have been looking for shops that work on this kind of tool.
Take the motor off to see if removing its weight will relieve the situation this may steer you in the direction you need to go. If it doesn't help & it may not see if you can ease the saw over onto its top so you can see the guts easier be sure to take the blade off first, if you don't you won't be able to crank the mechanism up or down. Once you get the saw up side down you may be better able to see what is really wrong. I suspect the they guys are right in that you need to do some cleaning & use paste wax on the elevation mechanism. Getting the saw up side down will help to see what you are doing.Good, better, best never let it rest until your good is better & your better best.
I think you have the right idea-- turn the tables on the table saw. As soon as I can get my son-in-law over here we will give it a try and hopefully will have a good view into the innards.
Edited 4/6/2007 9:48 pm ET by jrogerh
I don't know your saw, so I'm assuming it's a cabinet type, but access to the innards might be as simple as removing the tabletop.
There are two books that I find invaluable for working on my table saw and other equipment. "Care and Repair of Shop Machines" by John White; John (JWW) responded to you in msg 35455.4. The other book is "The Table Saw Book" by Kelly Mehler. I believe that either book shows the simplicity of realigning everything when you put it back together.
You might also find information about your saw at http://www.owwm.com/ Old Woodworking Machines.
Thanks Bob. I will certainly try to look at the references you mentioned.
Edited 4/9/2007 11:59 am ET by jrogerh
Another consideration for cleaning is the use of compressed air to blow out the compacted sawdust, assuming you have a compressor in your shop. You may even be able to do this without dismantling anything.
You'll need a air blow gun and perhaps an extension tube you can bend to reach into the tight areas.
Compressed air can be dangerous. Be sure to use eye protection, dust mask and watch out for blow back. DO NOT use the gun to clean yourself off.
WW Grainger, on the web, has a good assortment of this equipment; look under "Air", "Gun". Your local big box is another source.
After cleaning, lubricating all areas where metal slides together, not just the screw. Blind spots are easier to lubricate as well, even if you have to feel your way around.
Good luck.
Unfortunately I don't have a compressor. However, if I dismantle the saw I will be able to clean everything by hand.
Problems like you are experiencing are almost always due to dirt and lack of lubrication. However, in the case of your saw, given it's age, it is possible that some part has worn out.
In any case, please do not use a wrench, as you have already, to turn the crank. I have seen numerous beautiful old machines that only needed minor lubrication or an adjustment, destroyed beyond repair by someone taking a wrench or a hammer to a bound up part.
These machines were very well made but they were lightweight, you will almost certainly snap a casting or strip a thread if you keep forcing the blade height mechanism. Needless to say, if you break it you will not be able to get repair parts.
Have someone with a general knowledge of machinery look at the saw. The mechanisms were quite simple, finding and fixing the problem should be relatively easy.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
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