Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 29, 2008 03:06am | #1

   The most likely cause is either the rip fence or the miter slot, depending how you are guiding the stock, isn't parallel to the blade. This causes the teeth on the trailing edge of the blade to drag on the sides of the kerf, and because the teeth are rising at that point, they lift splinters from the top of the stock. Do a test cut and watch what is happening at the rear of the blade, you should be able to see the splinters form.

   Having an excessive amount of blade projection can contribute to the problem, but the primary cause is probably a misalignment.

   One other possible cause is a warped blade that again snags the kerf on the back side of the blade.

   John White

1. 
   Fabe | Mar 29, 2008 04:37am | #2

   John,

   Thanks, John. I'll check it out.

   Regards,

                 Fabe

    

    

    

2. 
   Fabe | Mar 29, 2008 05:11pm | #3

   John, I made the observation you described; i.e., watching the blade, front and back edge, to see which was causing the splintering. You suggested it would be the back edge, which makes all kinds of sense, but not so. It's the front edge of the blade. The back edge passes perfectly and does not add to the to problem. (Actually, it was "blades"; I tried it with two different, fairly new, carbide-tipped crosscut blades, both in good condition and recently cleaned.)The splintering, by the way, is small, not tear-outs, and could be sanded out (I think) fairly readily; so I can live with it. What puzzled me was more that the underside of the cut was so perfect - clearly better than the topside - even without a zero clearance throat plate.Now, even more puzzling, when I ran the test pieces last night following your instructions, I found that the underside was no longer perfect, but was showing some tear-out - this after weeks of perfect cuts on that side! I had even converted to crosscutting good face down, it was so dependable.I guess maybe I'll switch back to good face up, possibly score the cut line, and just leave it at that. If you have any further suggestions, of course, I'd appreciate them. Anyhow, I'm stumped. Regards,
   Fabe

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 31, 2008 02:51am | #4

   What you are seeing is just the fragile face veneer breaking up under the pressure of the saw's teeth. A veneer blade has teeth that are shaped to reduce this form of chipping, it is the only solution that I can suggest.John White

1. 
   Fabe | Mar 31, 2008 05:53pm | #5

   John,I think you're right that it's the blade, but I must add that the blade I'm using is carbide, 100 teeth, from a reputed manufacturer, designed specifically for crosscutting, and cost me over $100, if I remember correctly. Doesn't that make it a blade suitable for crosscutting plywood veneers, or is the "veneer blade" you mentioned something different?Fabe

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 05, 2008 02:20am | #6

   Veneer blades are different in their tooth geometry although they don't look that different from a fine tooth crosscut blade. I would suggest getting one from a company like Forrest, Ridge Carbide, or Freud, that is a company who's primary business is blade design and manufacture.John W.

2. 
   Fabe | Apr 05, 2008 03:32am | #7

   John,

   Great. I'll save a bit and buy one. I didn't realize there was anything better than a good quality crosscut blade to turn to.

   Thanks again,

                          Fabe

                        

3. 
   mwm500 | Apr 07, 2008 09:15pm | #8

   I've had somewhat the same problem by using a crosscut or combo blade and had to end up using painters tape, which did help a lot but the idea of using a blade made for veneer or plywood is sounds like a much better idea.Thanks