Being faily new to woodworking one of the things i cannot afford now is a dial indicator. So to make sure my table saw blade is square to the table i use a combination square with a small flashlight behind so i can adjust the blade until there is no light showing where the square and the blade meet. Then check the other side and on other spots on the blade until everything is good. You could also do this for 45 degrees also.
Replies
You said you cold not afford a dial indicator. Check out Grizzly's site (link included) I got the combo. It includes a magnetic base nice indicator and even includes a separate dial caliper all in a sturdy plastic storage case. It makes checking out the TS a breeze. Its worth the $29.00 + shipping.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=H3022&box=5&gid=16ED3F40-439C-495C-BD7F-7775954A8121&site=grizzly
Treeguy, that method will work quite well if you remember to allow for the blade runout. Its pretty simple to do. In the same way that you are measuring the distance now, just rotate the blade until it is furthest away from the end of your square. Mark the blade at that point then rotate it again until it is nearest the end of your square and mark it again. Now just rotate it until either mark is straight up from the table of the saw and you should have the difference equally divided.
Now take your measurement for squaring the blade from either end but not front to rear and square your trunion or fence to that. In doing so you will achieve a square fence and the runout on the blade will not be a factor.
Sincerely;
The Tool Guy
Treeguy,
Here's a better way to set the 45 and 90 degree stops: true up a block of wood and then cross cut it on the saw. Using an accurate square, check that the freshly cut face is at 90 degrees to the board face that was against the table. Repeat the process for setting the 45 degree stop.
Getting the cut face of the wood square is the only measurement that truly counts in the end. For a lot of reasons, many saws set up with a square against the blade will still not cut quite square when the they are running. Use the same technique for setting the miter gauge, holding the square against the cut face and the face that was against the fence.
The dial indicator is used to get the fence and miter slots parallel to the blade, not to set the stops. For accurate, drag free cutting, both the miter slot and the rip fence must be parallel to the blade. The miter gauge especially is impossible to set properly if the blade and miter slot are very far out of line with each other.
John W.
Treeguy, you were just setting up the trunion right? After reading JohnW's post I'm begining to think I missed something. Probably this lousy cold that I've got.. If so disreard my post and go with JohnW's or vice/versa.Sincerely;
The Tool Guy
I use a method to set 45's on the table saw that works well. Set the blade as close as you can to 45 with the usual squares, drafting triangles etc. Then joint a length of scrap material straight. It should be something like 1x6 Put the miter gage on the saw and the 1x in front of the miter gague vertically. Raise the blade as much as you can and go through the saw. Then while keeping the same edge up rotate 180 and go through again. You will have cut out a triangle shape from the 1x. Put a good square in the triangle , and any gap is 2x the error. It helps one see small gaps. adj. and try again. You can get perfect 45's this way. Bob
Check e-bay, their vendors have several Starrett dial indicators going for under $50.
Chicom indicators can be had for under $30.
Take a look in your local pawn shops, I've found bargains there also.
Good luck.
Roanoke VA
John W has it right. The end product is what counts. I bought a Brown and Sharpe indicator (made in gremany) with a mag base and a tip set for 40 bucks. Check the machinist tool companies like Airgas.
Mike
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