Replies

1. 
   Eef | Dec 09, 2009 08:11pm | #1

   hi john,
   wood runners for the sleds i make are a thing of the past. 1/4" plexiglas is so much better and easier to work with. it drills nicely, countersinks easily and will not change shape with the relative humidity. how thick is the aluminum track you are using? i tried 1/8" one time and had difficulty with it flexing side to side in the m-gage slots. i tend to use #6X1" drywall screws. if they protrude through to the top of the sled i belt sand them into submission.
   eef

1. 
   JohnRyan | Dec 09, 2009 08:26pm | #2

   Thanks for your reply Eef. Well, for the runners of the sled I used 3/4" poly strip...works great and fits perfectly into the grooves on the table...but the t-track that I want to drill is for accessories for the sled, like stop-blocks and hold-downs.  So, I'm not using the t-track as the runners...sorry if my msg sounded like that!

1. 
   Eef | Dec 09, 2009 10:34pm | #3

   john,
   sorry, now i see what you mean. yeah, get a metal cutting drill bit. you can countersink using a larger diameter bit by only drilling in a portion of the tapered tip. that sounds like a good idea, putting t-slot stock into the sled.
   eef

1. 
   JohnRyan | Dec 09, 2009 11:13pm | #4

   Ya, I can go look at HD or something.  I was following instructions for the "Super-sled" at John Nixon's site at http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com.  The t-track is to go on top of the fence, then I'm also going to put it on some mitre fences.  In the sled base itself, the slots to hold the t-bolts are actually routed through 3/8" slots with routed 3/4" 3/16"deep dado in them...which creates the kind of t-slot thing.  Probably just easy for me to get a metal bit, counter sink some holes and test a few screw types on a scrap bit of t-track.  Just thought I'd ask and save some material as I have actually learned a lot from making this sled.  I think I should now be called "John-The-Wood-Butcher" as that is what I've successfully done on several occasions so far. ;-)  That's ok, if you make a mistake you can go get more wood right?  Ya...tell that to my wife!!! LOL.

2. 
   roc | Dec 09, 2009 11:26pm | #5

   Clean the track well with lacquer thinner on the outside/where it touches the rest of the jig. roughen the surfaces a bit . . .

   Then . . . Epoxy.

   No need for screws.

   But that is not what I came here to say. what I came here to say is to rant about the way wood workers use the hold downs at least in the ads.

   They invariably have the long end of the hold down on the work. The long end should be on the jig and the short end on the work. This way the leverage of the arm is concentrated on the part one is attempting to hold in place and the result is more rigid.

   They are being used properly here at "A"

   http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11248

   If a thick piece of wood place a block of wood under the long end that is on the jig base to level the arm out.

   worth learning how to use one of these hold down kits.

   http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0303136&ucst=t

   http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190354707506#ht_5370wt_1167

   I am not saying buy this kit for woodworking but you could do worse. It is possible to make some of the stuff in these kits and use the same principles.

   It has been devilishly hard to find photos on the web to show you.

   Here is a half a$$ed YouTube.

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQuGw6yOz70

   Note the hold downs on the right side of the work. The bolts are close to the work and the horizontal clamp bar on the work side of the clamp is kept short. I say half a$$ed because if you watch more of the vid there is a lot of extension on some of the hold downs on the work side of the are as I was saying should not be done. There is very little work holding ability on the hold downs on the left side of the work. On others later in the vid he has about one thread of engagement on the hold down nuts inside the circular cut out ( needs to use longer t-bolts). This matters because the cutter is up cut and is trying to pull the work up off the table. Kind of scary. Oh well big bolts.

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   Edited 12/9/2009 3:58 pm by roc <!-- ROC2013 -->

   Edited 12/9/2009 4:01 pm by roc <!-- ROC2013 -->

   
   

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   Edited 12/9/2009 4:03 pm by roc

1. 
   JohnRyan | Dec 09, 2009 11:48pm | #6

   Hmmm...epoxy...why not.  I guess my feeling is that I'll be tightening something down and it will tear it up.   I know what you're going to say...if you glue it right...it won't be the glue that breaks.  Thanks for that.

   Also, thanks for the holddown tip.  LOL...I did not know that.  I don't have any holddowns yet, but just as I read what you said, last night I was watching a demonstration on youtube, I refound it... is THIS what you mean not to do....haha

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glNFjiq7oec

   Thanks for the info....

1. 
   roc | Dec 10, 2009 12:11am | #7

   >not to do....haha<You got it. She probably does it right when she is working at home but the dudes made her show it the other way 'cause they think they know best.: )Hey I don't know how it looks on your end but I went back a couple of times and cleaned up my post. Sounds like you got the point of it though .In the case of the miter cut there was not too much stress on the hold down but in some cases it matters that the work is held firmly and rigidly. When a lot of coarse teeth in the cut on a thick piece etc.rocPS: If you compare the purchase area of a few screws to the amount of contact area of that whole t-track you may see that you will be better off with the epoxy. Won't bow up or screws get loose either.Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   Edited 12/9/2009 4:12 pm by roc