I am about to undertake a new tool cabinet – wall hung. I am looking for thoughts for “metal” friendly woods.
I have noticed a few antique chest have weathered the ages with tools in fine condition as others have a fine set of rusted artifacts. Not all of this is due to differences in environmental storage and carelessness.
I know that Oak is very high in tannic acid which would harm metal in long term contact. Most Maples are high in acetic acid with same results. Pine is high in raw ingredients for turpentine which may be of benefit. I’ve thought of Olive but it would have a true vegetable oil base and thus degradable.
It doesn’t need to be a fancy case and the woods may be exotic or humble. I just want to best shot at protecting the tools without the coarseness of marine grade ply. It would be nice if it ended up being attractive.
Would looking at denser woods be of benefit? i.e. ebony ala Studley? With the premise that denser woods would have a better barrier effect from environmental change?
The exterior may be mahogany, but if this is hostile to tools. not. I have some thoughts of using “pacific cloth” in trays much like a silver chest. Leather also, but it has it’s own set of problems.
Thoughts?
Thanks
Replies
All woods are acidic, and I'm not at all convinced that an oak storage cabinet is any worse than any other kind. An oily wood isn't necessarily a good thing, as oils break down into fatty acids as they oxidize, and fatty acids can be aggressive (the molecular structure at the "acid end" of a fatty acid is the same as in acetic acid).
A light coat of shellac--possibly even just paste wax--would effectively "neutralize" the wood, in any case.
Moisture is the real culprit; keep the wood and tools dry, and there won't be anything to facilitate a reaction between them. It seems that around 7% MC is the target to aim for; keep the moisture in the wood below that point (which corresponds to a relative humidity in the air of around 35%), and the tools will be fine.
Keeping the humidity low in a coastal environment is always a challenge, but maintaining some heat inside the cabinet seems to work pretty well.
-Steve
"All woods are acidic, and I'm not at all convinced that an oak storage cabinet is any worse than any other kind. An oily wood isn't necessarily a good thing, as oils break down into fatty acids as they oxidize, and fatty acids can be aggressive (the molecular structure at the "acid end" of a fatty acid is the same as in acetic acid)."Woods do not contain "oil". some woods may appear to be "oily" but it is not oil in the classic sense of the word. Wood contains resins. Some woods have a higher content of resins than others which wood tend to make those woods feel oily.
Well, "oil" is a rather imprecise term, referring to hydrophobic/lipophilic compounds that are liquid at room temperature. Under that broad classification, many of the terpenes that constitute the bulk of most wood resins would certainly qualify as oils.
There are other oils in some woods, too: Just the other day, I was sanding some cocobolo, which gives off a wonderfully spicy scent (that is, it's wonderful unless you're violently allergic to it, as some people are). The fact that it gives off a scent tells me that it must contain an essential oil.
-Steve
Why would having a spicy scent lead you to believe that the wood had essential oils?
Bob Flexner the finishing guru mentions that no woods contain oils. I wonder what Hoadley would have to say on that.
To be more specific, Flexner says that common furniture woods contain no natural oils. He cites teak, rosewood, cocobolo etc. as problematic because they do contain oil. In "Identifying Wood," at least, Hoadley has very little to say about oil.
Jim
You'd think if there was oil in the wood and it could be extracted it would be. But I really question whether wood has oil in it. As evidence cut a piece of teak and lay the cut side on a clean piece of paper. Come back the next day the paper should have oil staining on it. Heat the wood in an oven if you want before setting it on the paper again I doubt there will be any staining on the paper. I've worked with several so called "oily" woods and have yet to find oil residue on any surfaces the material has touched. Sticky greasy feeling dust and shavings to be sure but never an oil stain anywhere.
I'm no expert, and I'll happily defer to anyone with even rudimentary knowledge. As I understand it the oils found in trees and other plants are essential -- volatile as opposed to fixed. They evaporate readily, which is why they give off a distinctive odour. There are specific ways to harvest essential oils, including steam extraction, but I dont think that volatile oils are likely to stain paper or to respond to simple heat. But I'm ready to accept that I'm talking rubbish.
Jim
"I've worked with several so called 'oily' woods and have yet to find oil residue on any surfaces the material has touched."
Try some cocobolo. It leaves a waxy/oily coating on everything that it rubs against. I was running some through my planer--no more than about 2 bd ft--and I had to clean the rollers and bed with alcohol afterwards.
-Steve
"Why would having a spicy scent lead you to believe that the wood had essential oils?"
Because that's the definition of "essential oil": a plant-based volatile hydrocarbon that has a scent.
"Bob Flexner the finishing guru mentions that no woods contain oils."
I did a little more Internet research on wood resins, and discovered that Jeffrey pine resin contains n-heptane, which is an oil by any definition (and is also a major component of gasoline). Jeffrey pine and ponderosa pine are very similar in appearance (that much I already knew), and apparently there have been at least a few industrial accidents caused when people were working with Jeffrey pine, not knowing the difference between it and ponderosa pine, and the offgassing heptane exploded.
-Steve
One other point: Woods that have a strong odor (Spanish cedar, Eastern redcedar--aka "aromatic" cedar, etc.) are probably best avoided. The volatile oils that give them their odor will deposit on everything in the cabinet, with potential harmful effects from the aforementioned oxidation-to-fatty acid reactions. Spanish cedar is well known for causing this kind of harm (to everything but cigars, apparently).
-Steve
Hi, I'm a new member. Looked on Google for Olive Wood, found this I don't know if it will help you out. Olive wood is used for, kitchen utensils, bowls, flooring, furniture, & instruments. Could not find out about the oil content, this site may help, Bethlehem Olive Wood Supplies.
boilerbay,
strength is very important as well . Ash is a very strong wood which isn't terribly expensive. IT lacks the tannic acids of other woods and yet remains light enough in color to make selection of tools relatively easy compared to darker woods..
Ash is a very strong wood which isn't terribly expensive. NOT inexpensive here in Chicago area BUT it is one of my favorite woods to work with. Hickory also. Be it known! Hickory is not that bad to work with. OK so I hardly ever try to hand plane it!To bad the Ash tree is dying out.. Bummer! As with ANY tree!
WillGeorge,
Not all ash will be affected. It's supposed to only attack the green ash.. and it's moving slow enough that we should be able to protect at least some if only yard trees which are worth the potential expense..
boiler...... Gerstner in Dayton, OH has made machinist tool boxes out of oak & other hardwoods for years & years. I had one & never had a problem with corrosion or whatever, even here in FL.
James
As others have said, moisture is the key factor, not the wood. Make a cabinet or box that seals pretty well and put lots of silica gel into it to dessicate (dry) the air. My plane cabinet is weatherstripped with 1/8" closed cell foam to keep the air exchange to a minimum and there are about 100 small drier packets (silica gel) in cabinet. No problem at all even when the garage is damp with rainy and foggy weather.
Hi John,
With relative humidity being part of the equation, I've heard of people using a small wattage light bulb constantly on inside the cabinet to combat moisture. It's evidently pretty successful, although I haven't tried it myself.
Paul
p s By the way. How did you make out fabricating those pillow shaped raised panels?
Edited 3/4/2008 6:05 pm ET by colebearanimals
Paul,Thanks for remember the project.Still working on it. Your ideas and John White's ideas. Double angles done vertical on TS and then follow with planes to match metal template, then finish with angled rabbet for rails/styles. Will keep you informed. If it doesn't work, I may take you up on your offer.John
Good morning John,
I'll be glad to help any way I can but I think you're on the right track.
Paul
GREAT QUESTION!
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