Suggestions for first time lathe
I’ve been a pretty serious hobbiest for the last 14 years, I’m finally getting ready to make the leap into wood turning.
I would like some suggestions for a lathe. I would like a floor model. I’m not sure exactly what I’ll be turning, so I would like as much flexibility as possible. I would like to keep the price tag under $800, but would consider spending more if it seemed like a good value.
So far, the Grizzley G0584 has caught my attention as being alot of machine for the money. If anyone has this machine I would like to hear your comments, good and bad.
Also, I’m a little confused as to why the Grizzley G1067Z lathe cost more when the G0584 has more mass, and a larger motor. Perhaps the G1067Z has a higher quality motor.
Even if you don’t own a Grizzly lathe, I would like to hear your suggestions. Thanks for your input.
Replies
Well, have you any experience with a wood lathe? If not, then you might consider going cheap the first time out. In 5 years, my little Delta Midi lathe has paid for itself probaly 100 fold. Good little production machine for small stuff and a cheap way to find out what's good and what's bad on a lathe. Once you're ready to graduate to something larger then sell the first one and go for a bigger one. If you do this then get one where the add on parts will work on a bigger one later. And, there will be LOTS of add on parts wanted!
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
FACESHIELD!
That's my best advice for any lathe owner.
Damn, my lip still hurts....
The older I get, the better I was....
I can appreciate your advice on the face shield. I've been hit in the face before (tablesaw kickback), and it hurts. I have a faceshield, but it fogs up if I wear it very long.
Perhaps an add on safety shield for the lathe?
Edited 11/7/2005 5:41 pm ET by Oakman608
I get this too. I find if I'm conscious of breathing through my nose it helps.Also, there are masks/filters out there (not a bad idea when working on lathe) which vent behind your head.
Oakman608,
I bought the Sears 15" model a few years($450) ago because, on the face of it, it appeared to have more power, varible speed, longish bed and the head could be turned for large bowls....and the price was right. It's noisy but works well.
I built a heavy bench with nested drawers and secured the lathe to the bench...put the sharpening center on the end of the bench and a cabinet above to hold the tools. Heavy, I cannot not budge the bench.
Between lathe, tools, sharpening and bench...you can kiss that $800 good by...lol. On the other hand, I can salvage lots of donnage and turn legs quite cheaply...
I love my Delta Midi. I got the extra bed and can turn long posts, etc.
That said, when I saw the deals on the Grizzly I wondered if I had made the better choice...
I love that the Grizzly head don the Grizzly turns so you can spin a big ol' bowl.
FWIW, the Grizzly machines* I've used have been great.
*cabinet saw, dust collector, drill press, wet/dry sharpener, etc. (and they have some cheap lath gouges/scrapers which aren't bad.)
Oakman -
I agree with Mike (Planewood); buy a cheap lathe to begin with. Find out what you like most about turning - spindle work or hollow/bowl work. Explore what you need and want in your final machine.
This is just my opinion but - don't be too impressed with these machines with 'rotating headstocks'. Wood lathes are essentially pretty simple machines but one thing you want to have dialed in is the alignment between the tail stock live center and the headstock spindle. For spindle turning at least. My first lathe was a Delta bench model (with stand) that had the rotating headstock. I had to buy a double morse taper to ensure aligning the headstock to the tail stock whenever the headstock had been rotated. Besides, assuming the headstock rotates to turn larger diameters than one could over the bed, these lathes, the Delta at any rate simply aren't massive enough to safely spin such large pieces. Again I stress this is my opinion only.
Better quality (read higher priced) lathes use electronic speed control while the less expensive ones use a mechanical system for varying speeds - not withstanding the stepped pulley systems also still in use. Electronic speed control is, by all means preferable but it can wait until you get your upgrade machine.
Turning green wood doesn't present a great deal of fine dust, turning dry wood does, sanding and finishing will engulf the shop without some sort of dust control. Catching shavings off the tool is problematic since to be effective the intake to the DC would have to be between you and the work. Most of it comes towards you. I don't even bother trying to control the shaving end of things just figure sweeping and cleanup as part of the turning process. I have a 4 x 12 HVAC heating duct transition piece on a 7" diameter duct to my DC for the sanding part for which I run the lathe in reverse thus most of it goes away from me into the DC intake.
While I advise getting a cheap-o lathe to start with, don't scrimp on the quality of your tools. A 3/4" roughing gouge, 3/8" spindle gouge, 3/8" bowl gouge, parting tool, round nose scraper .... that's probably a good place to start. HSS holds and edge longer but plan on sharpening often - more often than with other edge tools.
I own several Grizzly tools but I wouldn't consider buying one of their wood lathes as my ultimate machine.
Thanks Dennis, you have some good advice.
Any feed back from Grizzly lathe owners?
Several years ago I owned the Grizzly G1495 Lathe, the one they label heavy duty. I could not rid it of vibration. The faceplate runout was only marginally acceptable. I sold it after a couple of years. Remember this is a sample of one.
Oakman608 ,
Lathes are truly a lot of fun . Like PlaneWood and Dennis expressed start out at the beginning level . At that stage top of the line is not so critical , you will learn as you turn . My first was an old cast iron base Craftsman 11 " swing with a 30" length . After paying for itself maybe 5 times I sold it for what I bought it for and kept the tooling . Got an old Atlas wood lathe and its @ 12"x 36" and a very solid oldie . I'll bet this lathe has paid for itself ten fold x ten . You can up grade with more insight as to what you want . I see used ones for $150 - $400 of various quality / with and with out tools . Beautiful turnings do not necessarily have to come from great lathes . like most things it is what you know , not what you have that matters .
have fun dusty
Hi Oakman,
I've owned a couple of shops, have taken classes in lathe use and been turning for at least 30 years. Five years ago I bought a grizzly lathe hoping to do a little bowl and spindle turning. It was the worst tool buying experience I've ever had. I had bolts break off, belts slip and parts misaligned. After six months of screwing with it, I sold it to a coworker at a big discount just to get it out of the shop. Ended up buying an old Powematic model 45 for a couple of hundred dollars. It works great but required a lot clean up and refitting (new belts, live center, lost tool rests, etc.) The point I'm trying to make is that lathes don't hold their value very well and you might be better off to try and find a good used one (ebay always has a few). I'm not trying to start any flame wars about Grizzly, just describe my one really bad experiecne.
Hope this helps, Dennis
Sounds like a nasty experience with your Grizzly lathe. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Were your Powermatic 45 parts easy to find? I have a lead on one, but it has a 3 phase motor that would need to be replaced since I don't have 3 phase in my shop. Are the live centers, bearings, and other parts that wear out generic or do they have to specifically be the Powermatic brand?
The motor for a lathe that has a step pulley is is usualy only 1/2 hp or so. It is pretty easy to find an inexpensive replacement. Might have to change out the switch but it would be one of the simpler machine to change over to single phase. I put a linked pulley belt on mine and it took a small vibration out .I found most of my parts on ebay. Just do a Powermatic lathe search in ebay and watch what pops up. Over the course of a couple of months almost everything you need will come up for bid. The 45 uses a #2 morse taper for the head stock and tail stock. Lots of companies make upgraded parts, like a ballbearing dead center. A good lathe should be heavy, good capacity between centers, solid bearings and common enough for parts. Best of luck with your search.
Dennis
Oakman608
one question you asked was why the g0584 was a better price than the g10672z. I have noticed than when Grizzly brings out a new model or redisigned machine they sometimes give it an "intoductory price", and then in the next years catalog the price goes up. I own a g1067z it was my "upgrade" from a mini (a grizzly) and i chose it not just for the price but because I was standing in the Springfield Mo showroom and could compare the features of all their other models first hand and it seemed like the best buy, and it was (for me at least) one thing to consider, the g1067z will handle the duplicator they sell, I would check with Grizzly about the g0584, it is always best to be sure if you can upgrade or add on in the future. I have been buying their machines for a long time, my 6" jointer was bought in 1993 and is worked hard almost ever day, my shop now has 8 Grizzly machines, and I have had nothing but good expericence with them all. If you live close to one of their showrooms as I do (about 100 miles for me) it is a treat to go there and see everthing all in one place, a great way to compare differtent models.
good luck,,,uncletim.
On the advice of the late ToolDoc, a frequent flyer here at Knots, I bought myself a (gasp!) Harbor Freight--specifically Central Machinery--36" lathe with a cast iron bed, very solidly built. Now, HF makes some crap, and some crappy lathes with sheet steel ways, and such, but this one is solid and decent. 3/4 HP, heavy, solid. ToolDoc said that he believed the HF main parts to be manufatured in the same factory overseas as the Jet for $500. After examining both closely, I had to agree, that's quite likely; the only difference I could observe was the quality of the paint job, and the switching/adjustment levers. The live centers were a little better on the Jet, too, but those are replacable, and the HF's were OK to start with; actually, I still haven't replaced them.
My lathe had one problem: the shaft for the toolrest was a tad too small, so that when the lever was set, it knocked the toolrest slightly crooked. That's a pain, so I bitched to HF, and they were right there about it. I went to the store and traded for the toolrest on their display, which fit perfectly. Then they sent me a 2nd one in the mail so I've got two! I know others have had different experiences, but mine worked out great. after a couple of years, I burned the belt; HF had me a new one for $6 in about 3 days.
Bottom line: perfectly servicable 36" lathe w/12" swing and rotating headstock, extended 2 year warranty (didn't trust HF) and out the door for $179. It was a sale; normal price at the time was $200.
Honestly, I have no complaints and with all the pro turners recommending that you start at the beginning level, this seems like a valid path to me.
Oops, looks like the price went up a bit. Still a good deal.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34706
Good luck,
Charlie
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