Replies

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Sep 05, 2004 06:45am | #1

   I would use a dye or oil based stain, go with a polyurethane finish for water resistance and abrasion.  Some manufacturers have additives to strengthen the finish 'hardness'.  

1. 
   dperfe | Sep 05, 2004 04:52pm | #3

   What about washcoating or sealing the grain, to help with continuity, prior to dye?

   -DP

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Sep 06, 2004 08:53am | #6

   I typically don't wash coat with dyes.  I do with stain.  If you are concearned with the results, always do a test piece first. 

   Sunlight will darken the cherry over time, but if you desire this affect, be careful to use a topcoat which does not have UV inhibitors, which will slow the aging process.

   Another technique which you may consider is toning to get the desired color of the wood. 

   Get some scrap and start experimenting to find out what you like. 

1. 
   DaveHeinlein | Sep 06, 2004 04:13pm | #8

   Contrary to popular belief,finishes with UV inhibitors do not protect the wood from UV rays very much, but rather is put there to protect the finish itself from degredation by UV rays.

2. 
   DaveHeinlein | Sep 05, 2004 04:00pm | #2

   If you're using Cherry, why would you want to use a dye? Just be sure to use wood that is all heartwood, it will achieve all the same color.

   I prefer an oil finish on Cherry, the ambering that happens enhances the look of the Cherry.

3. 
   WayneL5 | Sep 05, 2004 05:20pm | #4

   With cherry I don't use anything to color the wood.  A clear finish (unless you use water based) will deepen the color a bit, and exposure to light over time will bring out the color cherry is so desirable for.  I think cherry looks good with only a clear finish.

   I've used Minwax Helmsman several times, including on kitchen cabinets, and been quite satisfied.

4. 
   BArnold | Sep 05, 2004 07:55pm | #5

   I use cherry for most of the items I build.  Its natural patina developed by exposure to light is the best 'finish'.  I give it a couple of coats of BLO/MS in a 50/50 mix.  Since I live in Florida, I'm usually able to do the oil rub in my driveway in sunlight.  The sunlight warms the oil, making it seep in deeper and it also kick-starts the natural coloring process.  After letting the oil cure for a week or two, I then top-coat with polyurethane.

   (Not much sunlight here today with "Frances" paying a visit, though.)

   Bill Arnold

   Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.

5. 
   BG | Sep 06, 2004 02:01pm | #7

   dperfe,

   I don't have very much finishing experience but a couple of weeks ago I was finishing a piece with Waterlox on the top and lacquer on the sides and I was amazed at the difference.  The whole piece had been washed with a light dye, BLO'd, shellac coat and then the final finnish.  The difference in the depth and richness of the wood was quite substantial.  I took some scraps afterwood and played with dropping dye (Trans Tint) in the Waterlox ...wow!

   We had custom Cherry cabinet in our Indiana home...they were beautiful, however they could have looked a bit better if the oak flooring did not butt up against them...or the colors were different...
6. 
   migraine | Sep 06, 2004 07:51pm | #9

   I agree with some of these others.  Cherry wood, go natural with a top coat.  If you must stain, use a dye, such as Behlins(can't remember the product name), or if you can buy/find it, Mohawk's Ultra Penetrating Stain.  These dyes are best applied with a good sprayer and don't overwet the wood, or the finish will look blotchyand make sure the dye is DRY before the top coat.  Behlin and Mohawk are the same company, basically

   As for the top coat, with me being a past cabinet maker(as in lots of kitchens and baths) go with a good brand of catalized lacquer of urethane/varnish.  The pre-cat products are ok, but I would still stick with the products you catalize yourself.  Don't buy from a BigBox store or local lumber yard, they usually sell lower grade products made by the big brands.  Go to a PAINT store, where they sell paint...  If you can find a Mohawk distributer, go with them.  They do have a really good quality wiping stain that looks good on cherry

   I just delt with a slap up the head myself.  I bought a local lumber yards "Best" paint with a 25 year guarantee, made by Sherwin Williams.  Stuff was crap and now I have to repaint a bunch of rooms with paint from a name brand paint store.