Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 22, 2006 02:28am | #1

   Liquid wrench plus fine grit on the slot so the screwdriver doesn't slip. 

1. 
   Gnome | May 22, 2006 03:30am | #2

   I've tried it with no luck. I need some kind of super penetrating fluid.

1. 
   polarsea1 | May 22, 2006 03:44am | #4

   Soak it with Triflo, then place the head of a tight fitting screwdriver into the slot and give it a few smart raps with a small hammer.

2. 
   Troy | May 22, 2006 05:33am | #5

   Try using more liquid wrench and place a screwdriver in the slot and tap it with a mallet a few times this can force the oil into the treads. Also you can try some "freeze spray" (if you can't find that use the canned air they sell at photo supply places. This can also break the threads loose. When it comes to screw drivers bits that are hollow ground are less likely to strip the threads. The gunsmith supply co. "Brownells" has great screwdrivers as well as other tools for loosening recalcitrant screws. Good luckTroy

1. 
   Troy | May 23, 2006 07:53pm | #21

   Another thought, I have seen drill bits that run backwards so if you drill out the hole the spinning of the bits helps to loosen the screw.Troy

3. 
   joinerswork | May 22, 2006 04:17pm | #12

   gnome,

   Look for a product called "PB blaster", at auto or hardware store.  Alternate heat from soldering iron or gun, right on the head of the screw, with a shot of blaster.  Has worked for me, in dismantling old sawsets, and motorcycle parts.

   Regards,

   Ray Pine

1. 
   EdHarrow | May 22, 2006 04:48pm | #13

   I have used small quantities of 'Mystery Oil' and copious quantities of patience in situations like this.  Success, of course, is not assured, but I've had good results in those cases where heat is not an option.

   What I do wonder about is doing the electrolysis before removing the screws. 

1. 
   joinerswork | May 22, 2006 08:47pm | #14

   Ed,

   I like marvel mystery oil as a honing oil.  MY dad, an old time mechanic, swore by it as a "top cylinder and valve lubricant", adding small qty to the gas in his lawn tractor.  When he died, I suddenly had a gal of it to use up. It smells better than the kerosene and motor oil I was taught to use for honing long ago, and is good at floating the gunk out of the stones' pores.

   The avertising on the can of PB blaster touts its efficiency as a penetrant by bragging how fast it dissolves styrofoam!??  Not sure how this translates to soaking into and separating rusty metal, but it does that too.

   I've read and heard about the electrolysis process, but never tried it myself.  Not having a battery charger, I'd have to substitute the arc welder...naaah, probably never get those screws out after they're fused to the holes.

   Regards,

   Ray Pine

2. 
   shopteacher | May 23, 2006 01:48pm | #18

   I used PB Blaster on a 608c and the results were amazing.  It works 10 times better than WD-40.

1. 
   joinerswork | May 23, 2006 04:11pm | #20

   shop,

   Yepper, it's goos stuff.

   Ray

2. 
   KeithNewton | May 22, 2006 03:41am | #3

   Heat is a good way to loosen screws in metal and in wood. I keep a little pencil torch for this. If you don't have one but have a good soldering iron, you could start by trying that.

3. 
   shippy | May 22, 2006 05:46am | #6

   Oil of clove, like for toothe aches, sometimes works when other penetrants don't. You'll probably find tho, that as others have suggested, heat and tapping will get them loose if they are going to come loose. If not, carefully drilling and re-tapping may be the last option.  Good luck!

1. 
   shopteacher | May 22, 2006 01:14pm | #7

   Drilling and tapping can be a bad choice.  I believe you will find that Stanley had their own non-standard thread system.  Finding a tap and screws to match might be impossible.

1. 
   Gnome | May 22, 2006 01:42pm | #8

   I think you're right about drilling and tapping. When it came to screw threads Stanley certainly marched to a different drummer. I may just take the handles off and soak it in kerosene for a month. I can use it as is with a guide board clamped in place after sawing guide kerfs.

1. 
   BobMc | May 22, 2006 01:52pm | #9

   Are you sure you don't want to hit another auction for a metal lathe?  That way you could cut your own taps and make your own screws? ;>)

    

2. 
   dgreen | May 22, 2006 01:56pm | #10

   If it's a user you don't have to match the original threads, purchase suitable screws and drill and tap to match them.Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb

4. 
   EdHarrison | May 22, 2006 03:13pm | #11

   Gnome, this may not be applicable at all with such small screws, but I have loosened reluctant screws on rusted out planes and other tools by using a brace (as in brace and bit) and screwdriver bit.  You get a lot more leverage with a brace than a standard screwdriver.   This is after soaking with liquid wrench, et al.  Good luck, Ed

5. 
   MikeHennessy | May 22, 2006 09:24pm | #15

   Back in the days of my wasted youth when I was into motorcycles, I had a manual impact driver. It's a tool with a screwdriver bit that is turned when you pound it with a hammer. The pounding keeps in in the slot and the tool's internals convert the downward momentum into torque to loosed the screw. Never saw a screw that this tool wouldn't turn. I haven't seen these in years, though & don't know if you can still get them.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

6. 
   mufti | May 22, 2006 10:07pm | #16

                 One trick I have not seen mentioned is to try tightening the screws first, sometimes the problem arises from reaction between metals occupying different places on the cathodic scale. In these conditions rust may not be the problem. (Think how aluminium reacts when fastened to steel).

        The Australians have an excellent combined rust, scale and tarnish remover called CORRODIP made by Liquid Engineering 2003 Pty Ltd. I use it and it may be available in America. Try their Google web site.

7. 
   jimmy | May 23, 2006 01:52am | #17

   http://www.antique-used-tools.com/index.html  This guy will have any parts you need...

8. 
   WillGeorge | May 23, 2006 04:04pm | #19

   Being a metal worker, I'd just drill them out and I'd make new screws.
   But I would suppose you want the keep it original.

   Just a thought.. not sure it will work but what I'd do.. DO you have a drill press and some sort of bit that fits the screw slot well?
   Bit must fit the slot (sort of like using the correct screwdriver).

   Whatever, Chuck up that bit and clamp the 'object' down so it will not turn. Try to 'unscrew' the screw with a vice-grip or whatever you have on the bit while pressing firmly DOWN into the slot with the drill press.

   Judgement call, Pressing down with the drill press while letting the screw rise... YES.. I have failed many times doing this.. But I'm OLD and has doen it hundreds of time.. Sometimes with success!

9. 
   outyonder | May 24, 2006 05:55am | #22

   I've use the manual inpact driver and it work great even when the screw head is mess up a little. I bought mind at Home Depot or Lowes. I'm pretty sure that Northern tool would carry them. Frist time I use them I was working on Car's for a living.