For the past several years I’ve used one router for one task. I’m pretty sure I’m done doing that particular task and I was going to remove the bit and have it sharpened. (Not yet really dull but no longer really crisp either) any way no luck getting it out.. I backed off the coller and it wouldn’t come free. so I squirted it with WD40 and still it remains firmly in grip .
I have some better other penitrating oils but none of them seemed to loosen it’s grip. I tapped on the top. I pried from the bottom. My next approach was going to be a torch to heat up the shaft but worried about repercussions such as ruining the bearings etc..
Am I over looking something?
Replies
take the collet completely off and you may be able to tap it out
Knuts
I tried that. unsuccessfully.
after sitting there for such a period maybe a touch of rust way down in? Try a couple drops of peroxide, give it 10 minutes and try again....it's thinner than oils and may break through, so to speak....The unspoken word is capital. We can invest it or we can squander it. -Mark Twain...Be kind to your children....they will choose your nursing home....aim low boys, they're ridin' shetland ponies !!
oldbeachbum
thanks I hadn't considered Peroxide.
I'm relatively sure that it is rusted in place.
It sure was handy having it set up for those years but maybe I should have switched routers to prevent the problem
You've removed the collet nut completely?John White
John,
Yes! It's spinning under the bit.
Does the router have a separate tapered collet that wedges down into a tapered hole in the end of the shaft, or is this one of the Sear's el cheapos that just have a straight hole in the shaft and several vertical saw cuts that allow the nut to close up the shaft on the bit?John W.
John
Yes, this has that brass collet device. It's not one of their real el cheapo's (although I have no love of Craftsman)
I dont have that problem much and I aient college educated but.... It could also be stuck b/c its bottomed out. In the future when you put a bit in the collet drop it all te way in and lift it up about 1/8 inch and tighten. Heres some help
http://www.newwoodworker.com/stuckbits.html
Edited 1/14/2008 2:41 pm by Sancho
Sancho,,
It's not bottomed out if it were the nut that holds the collet in place would lever the bit out as it's backed off.
soak it in penetrating oil over night then try tapping it at 90's with a soft face hammer.
This may sound wacky but put the whole thing in the freezer for about 12 hours. Then take it out and use localized heat just on the collet area. Try to keep it away from the bit shank. The freezing will shrink the metal. The heat will expand the collet. While heating have something ready to help pry down on the bit.
We use this method for interference fit parts on aircraft. One example is 727 axle sleeves. We heat the new sleeves in an oven, and pack the axle bore with dry ice. The new axles go on with ease. Once the temp stabalizes on both (within a half minute). You need a big slide hammer to remove it again.
benhasajeep,
great idea!
I've done that in the past removing rear axles from hubs on Jaguar XK 150
Hahaha, great idea if it works. Whacko if it doesn't.
Good luck.
Ben
Use to use that method on navy ships to. But I wouldnt doubt if the bit spun and is gauled. So its going to take some thought to get it loose
Attach a length of chain to the bit. Ensure it is tight. Secure the chain to a suitable beam. Place something of extreme value and fragility under the router. Leave it for 5 minutes. Upon your return the bit will have pulled out, and the item of extreme value will be shattered. Trust me on this. ;)
XK-150! Very cool. I've done similar with various mechanical press fit assemblies. The best trick, to which I no longer have ready access, is liquid nitrogen.
He could pack it with dry ice then use a blow torch that should work :>)
Sancho
That's what I did, stuck dry ice around the axle and let it chill down till the dry ice was nearly gone then use the same 30 ton press that wouldn't budge it to pop it looss once I aimed a little heat at the hub..
Jaguar used a 12 & 12 1/2 degree interferance fit on their axles in order to control end float so the disks wouldn't knock back the pads.
Modern disk brakes just use floating calipers which achieve virtually the same thing..
Tapered collets are normally steel, it sounds more like you have a sleeve to bring down the diameter to 1/4 inch from 1/2 inch. If that is the case then there isn't any interior taper and your problem is that the long straight shaft of the bit and the sleeve are seized and only brute force and penetrating oil are likely to break it free.John W.
Frenchy--maybe you can clamp a vise grip onto the router bit shaft right above the nut and have the nut jack the bit out of there as you unscrew it. I'd soak it good with liquid wrench before trying.
bldrbill,
If the nut is loose there isn't room for a vice grip.
I've tried most of the above mentioned ideas now with zero success.
Last-ditch technique: Snug the collet nut back up, put some vise-grips or some other kind of spacer in the space between the top of the nut and the bottom of the cutting edges on the bit. Now loosen the collet nut, forcing it against the pliers/spacer, in turning forcing that against the bit. Something will break.
-Steve
Steve--that's the technique I was trying to describe. You did it better than I did. Bill
Micro torch pinpointing to bit shaft?
or
Suspend it securely by the bit over a cushion or soft pad. Hold a piece of 2X against back/top of router and slam it hard with a rubber mallet.
(or a bigger hammer)
...The unspoken word is capital. We can invest it or we can squander it. -Mark Twain...Be kind to your children....they will choose your nursing home....aim low boys, they're ridin' shetland ponies !!
Edited 1/16/2008 12:48 am by oldbeachbum
I had a similar problem... I removed the router base and applied heat with a torch in a localized area on the bit and collet... sand and clean and lubricate all surfaces before reassembling. Mine was a Craftsman "cheapo" router, but I wasn't going to let the rust prevail.
Frenchy,
If you can lower the bit enough to get a wood hand screw clamp on it you can then whach the handscrew with your wood or rubber mallet. I have had good luck using this method. (You might even need to take the router base off to gain access.) Since the clamp jaws are wood you won't hurt your bit and can apply a lot of force. Sometimes you don't even need a mallet - just twist it loose using the hand screw.
Dan
You get to buy a NEW ROUTER! Yipeeeeee! B-)
What make router? Have you been able to remove bits easily in the past?
Karma------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
Karma
that and excess shellac. From the description of his application process, he slops it everywhere...
Howard,
Yes bits came out relatively easy in the past. The router my bit is stuck in is a Craftsman. I've been forced to change the bits in the other routers often enough that it's never been a problem,, untill now..
I bet it's a 1/4" shank. The collets squeeze down and may not open back up. This can be worse if you had the bit bottomed out in the collet. Carefully give the shank a crisp whack with a wrench, don't hit the carbide! It should come loose.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Beat it to fit-that works!
If it's a Craftsman, the collet is integral with the motor shaft. There is no way to separately replace the collet. Given that and recognizing that replacing the bit is cheaper than a new router, to ahead and use maximum force.Howie.........
if the collet is loosened completely, put a wooden clamp on the bit, as suggested above, place the clamp against the fence os it will not rotate, and then try turning the router on and then quickly off.........to see if the torque of the motor will break the rust bond . .. . . .
ARE YOU SERIOUS ???Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
yes, thinking a quick jolt would bust it loose. it assumes the wooden clamp could be secured to the bit such that the bit would not spin. also assumes the router is in a table (secure) and that the clamp holding the bit could be secured.
i sense you think this would be imprudent, but i think i would try this before banging or pounding on the bit or the shaft, etc. YMMV, obviously.
Edited 1/14/2008 9:55 pm by stpatrick
I had a similar problem with an old saw blade stuck on a mandrel. I used elctrolytic rust reversal process and was able to remove the nut quite easily. I tried WD40 and soaking overnight with no success.
Google "Electrolytic Rust Reversal" and you will find a link that describes what to do. Here's one:
http://www.1stgencivic.org/1stgeneration_civic/Body_about_rust.htm
Øtherwise, buy a new collet and bit to avoid the hassel of recovering the old one.
Greg
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Edited 1/14/2008 6:27 am by Cincinnati
Tighten the collet nut as tight as possible, and route a simple edge on the most expensive piece of wood in your shop. That's worked consistently for me over the years.
dave,
Yep, that always works if it is the last operation on an especially complicated component.
Ray
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