Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Feb 19, 2009 07:13pm | #1

   The method depends on how they are being cut. On a router table, for example, start and stop blocks can be clamped to the fence to limit the cut. Starts and stops on a table saw, however, may not be a good idea.

1. 
   philip_r | Feb 19, 2009 07:24pm | #2

   I suggest a plunge router (handheld) or router table because the operation is pretty safe and easy to control.  They can be done on the TS, however, this greatly increases the chance of kickback and I do NOT recommended it.  If you go with the TS, I suggest anti-kickback rollers and reading up on the dangers of kickback.

    

1. 
   Donahrens | Feb 19, 2009 07:50pm | #3

   Thanks for the reply. With a plunge router, would you drill a hole the same size as the bit so the entry into the wood is easier? On the router table, (do not own one yet) how does one begin the cut? I suppose the only way is to do a starter hole with a drill and then use the stop blocks as mentioned?

1. 
   RalphBarker | Feb 19, 2009 08:05pm | #4

   No need to drill starter holes, since the router bit will do that itself. The plunge router is usually used either with a collet guide working within a template, or guides/jigs that use the router base to establish start and stop points.On a router table, once the start and stop blocks are positioned with respect to the bit, the piece is eased down onto the bit while being held against the fence. The work piece is then moved along the fence to the stop block, and the router turned off while holding the piece in position. Having a knee-bump auxiliary power switch on the front of the router table is helpful.

   Edited 2/19/2009 12:07 pm by RalphBarker

2. 
   forestgirl | Feb 19, 2009 08:18pm | #5

   Don, there was a big discussion about doing stopped grooves/dados on a tablesaw, last year sometime.  I was converted, after reading the discussion, to never doing them on the table saw.  This afer having done quite a number of them in the past.  In short, Tbagn is giving you sound advice to use a router.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
3. 
   Eef | Feb 19, 2009 08:44pm | #6

   good morning d,

   this cut is done as a stop cut.

   stop cuts can be dangerous. this is partly true because one must "plunge" the stock into a moving saw blade or router bit. i've experienced stunning kick-backs from this operation.  i'm somewhat loath to giving a written explaination of the procedures.  maybe someone else will do better than i.  maybe youtube or a written, with pictures, tutorial would be best.  i apologize for being so mysterious, it's just one of those operations that, i feel, requires a visual aid to make it safe.

   eef

1. 
   Donahrens | Feb 19, 2009 08:52pm | #7

   In all honesty, this is not something I would attempt soon. I am simply a curious person when it comes to a lot of techniques. If I build panel cab doors, I will just run the groove all the way through. I guess on a table saw with a dado set, you can do stop cuts by just turning off the motor and awaiting the blades to a complete stop.

1. 
   knuts | Feb 19, 2009 09:18pm | #8

   Waiting for any cutter to come to a stop while in the wood is dangerous. In fact, any motion requiring a change in posture or hand position, such as reaching for a switch is dangerous. My tablesaw switch has a large paddle that I have become adept at pressing with my knee. I'm sure a whole bunch of WWrs have learned the same skill for the same reasons! The handy thing about plunge routers is, with one finger they can be un-plunged almost instantly.

   Edited 2/19/2009 1:43 pm ET by knuts

4. 
   Samson | Feb 19, 2009 10:01pm | #9

   It all depends upon what tool you are using.  It is very easy to do with a plunge router as others have mentioned.  While I don't do it, I have seen woodworkers do them on router tables with stop blocks.

   I mostly use hand tools.  Stopping a groove is certainly possible, but is often not the best answer.  For example, in your door example, it is better to make a groove that goes all the way through and then make a haunch on the tenon piece that fills the groove at the edges.  Similar for drawer bottoms - it's easier (and often more durable) to design and cut joints in a way that hides or fills the grooves.

5. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 20, 2009 03:32am | #10

   I can guess but that doesn't lend itself to fine craftsmanship or safety!

   Yes it can. Trial and error is how I learn anything. I think ALL humans learn that way even if they do not realize it!

   I can guess but that doesn't lend itself to fine craftsmanship or safety!

   You asked somebody else .. That is a good start.. BUT be aware we all have different opinions.. There comes.. YOUR thought on if I want to try to do it! If you 'think' not for you.. DO NOT.

   OK, I am a router LOVER. Get a reasonable quality router and 1/2 inch bits. Not them 1/4 inch shaft things.  OK, so I use them old ones I have on occasion.

   I'd bet I could make anything on a good router table, Hand held router (I do NOT do that very often) and reasonable quality Table Saw..

   OH, and a nice block plane, handsaw, drills and bits.. The list gets very long!

   A router is a wonderful tool if you take your time and 'keep you wits about you' ....

1. 
   Domer | Feb 23, 2009 11:50pm | #11

   If you are not making through cuts, a plunge router works really well. You can use the fence for your router or buy the Router Wizard from Eagle Jigs. It is safe and you can see the cut. Domer