I am convinced that the Ryobi is not the way to go. thank you for your help.
Now I have to figure out the best way. It seems the next step is about $500 or so.
Does any one have pro’s or con’s about a Jet in $500-$600 range. I don’t remember the model number, but I did see a cast iron table.
quikstak
Replies
I went through this process about a year ago. I felt that anything under $500 wasn't good enough for what I wanted. There are quite a few that are in the $500 price range-for starters. When you add fences, etc the price can go up quicly.
I ended up selecting a Grizzly in lieu of the Jet or others. For the same money I got a 2 hp motor instead of 1.5. A better fence and solid extensions. You have the option of wiring the motor for 110 or 220. Seemed like the best bang for the buck. Of course, my timing was pretty good. They were having an introduction special on their new versions when I was looking.
If you haven't looked at the Grizzly I would at least take the time to do that.
Thank you. I had briefly looked at them on-line. A friend has a Cabinet style Delta that he wired for 220. needs the bevel gear replaced for $250. Don't know what he wants after that as I haven't talked to him lately. but if the price is 500 or less I think it would be a good deal.
Thanks again for the help
quikstak
I agree with SSN664 about the Griz's advantages over the Jet (fence, miter, motor, cast iron wings). Shop Fox is a sister company to Griz with dealers. They have a version of the same saw that's worth checking into.
I'd also be looking at the mid level mini cabinet saw from Sears....cabinet mounted trunnions, enclosed base for better dust collection and smaller footprint, and some nice features on the fence and miter gauge. It was just on sale for $599 with another 10% for Craftsman Club members....it will go on sale again.
Last year I purchased the Jet Contractors saw with cast iron extensions. I love the saw and their fence is just fine. If you can't afford the cast iron extensions then they have a model with stamped steel ones. From my experience with steel extensions I strongly recomend you spend the extra money and get cast iron ones.
Since I have been using this saw for a little over a year, it is accurate, easy to set up, came out of the box with a perfecly flat ( within a couple of thousands) top and has vertually no run out that I can detect. Every cut I make with the saw is exacly what I need and it will give you excellent service if you are meticulous with the initial assembly and setup.
Rusty
Thank you for taking the time to reply. I have others who have matched you view.
One person made new extension tables from formica covered board. much lighter if you want to move it a lot. I don't
How is it for noise?
quikstak
I've got the Jet contractor saw with the stamped steel extensions but I would rather have had the iron. I got such a good deal on it that I figured I would just build wings or see if I could scrounge some up. It's a nice saw and the fence is pretty good too. I haven't seen the Grizzley saw so I can't speak to that.
Thank you for your input. I found in one of my searches, a quy that does woodworking for a living made some wings out of formica covered board (counter-top stuff?) Was lighter and wood still slid along fine.
thanks again.
quikstak
Jet contactor saw: I personally hate it, the fence is terrable, and on mine, the damn swich turns on un-expectadly, for no apperant reason.
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measure once
scribble several lines
spend some time figuring out wich scribble
cut the wrong line
get mad
If your friend has a cabinet style Delta. Buy it. It is a good quality saw and you can't go wrong for 5 bills. I have a powermatic 66 and think it is great. Plus, you can always find parts for a Delta
couldn't resist jumping in on this discussion since i recently bought a powermatic 64 contractor's table saw which works really well, except that ridgid has just come out with a contractor's saw that's only $549 and has got: mobile base, adjustable trunnions, EASILY removable blade guard... if my powermatic suddenly blows up, this is the saw i would go with.
Found this the other day. I emailed them but havn't heard back. Last update for the page is sometime in August. If the shipping is not to outrageous I may go with this one. Of course, as the saying goes, if it looks too good to be true, it probably is.
thanks for the info.
http://www.battels.com/ShopFox.htm
2 HP, 10" Contractor Type Saw, Powered by a 2 HP motor and prewired to 220V, this machine is ready to rip with heavy-duty cast-iron extension wings and the new Shop Fox¯ Aluma-Classic(TM) Fence. Weighing in at 292 lbs., this saw will provide stability during operation for accurate and dependable cuts. A sturdy base, cast-iron miter gauge with adjustable quick stops, and a rail-mounted magnetic switch are some more standard features that makes this saw irresistible for contractors or home shop woodworkers
List $795 Sale: $599
Frank. There is no comparison between a rigid and a powermatic. I have a model 66 carpenters saw and it is probably one of the finest saws I have ever used. In fact it is.
Joe
If on a budget I have seen that the new Ridgid contractor's saw is well reviewed. They have some good engineers working there as their new portable power tools are robust and have some smart features- I have a few. Their stuff is made at modern factories(ISO rated I believe)
Of course when using any saw with marginal power try to use exc stabilizer plates from Forrest , adjustable one from Lee Valley and others(watch out for poor machining on the new one with embedded o ring from Simonds?) and thin kerf blade(tef coated if possible).
Also it goes without saying read articles and tune saw aspects(table,fence, miter gauge,etc) every which way
The new splitter that pins in and is easily removed from throat plate is good bet too for ripping. Available at Rockler and other places.
If belt driven and there is unwanted vibration then try segmented red urethane belts available in most catalogs(abut 5 bucks a foot). They cut vibration.
I wondered about rigid. looked at them a homedepot. I may go look again. Found this the other day. I emailed them but havn't heard back. Last update for the page is sometime in August. If the shipping is not to outrageous I may go with this one. Of course, as the saying goes, if it looks too good to be true, it probably is.
thanks for the info.
quikstak
http://www.battels.com/ShopFox.htm
2 HP, 10" Contractor Type Saw, Powered by a 2 HP motor and prewired to 220V, this machine is ready to rip with heavy-duty cast-iron extension wings and the new Shop Fox¯ Aluma-Classic(TM) Fence. Weighing in at 292 lbs., this saw will provide stability during operation for accurate and dependable cuts. A sturdy base, cast-iron miter gauge with adjustable quick stops, and a rail-mounted magnetic switch are some more standard features that makes this saw irresistible for contractors or home shop woodworkers
List $795 Sale: $599
I have not seen rating lately but ShopFox looks pretty good - they are sister company to Grizzly. Try also Northwestpowertools and maybe International Tool in Fla.
I appreciate Biesemeyer's input to the trade but not a great fan as I like fence to stay parallel during movement however this may work fine for you. See after market fence ratings online.
I hope all who have had a say in this conversation will continue a little longer. I am still holding off but am getting close.
I found a Shop Fox model w1714 cast iron wings, @%$# something fence, 2HP prewired for 220, stand, ect. found at http://www.woodstockint.com. I can get it through Western tool supply in Salem for 650. From what I coudl find on the net it is about a $575 saw plus $75 shipping.
Any further comments will always be considered. I am taking my time because it is a big investment. Also, prices are going up and I don't think there is as good a buy for less money
The plunge is getting close!
quikstak
The SF is a great choice, and is nearly identical to the Griz 0444Z which is ~ $600 delivered. Two of the more significant advantages of going with the SF is the two year warranty and dealer support. If they're shipping the SF to you, you're basically giving up the dealer support, but you'll still retain the extra year's warranty. Most machines that have a failure, will fail early on....just some food for that as to whether or not the extra warranty is worth $50. Good luck.
Hi Scotty. Are you the one who does all the beaming up? :)
We are headed to Powel's Book Store in Portland. Will be considering a tablesaw book and a jig book. I will investigate some places with saws for sale. Don't know what I will do if I find the SF I am looking at for less than 650, finances being what they are. At least I can look and feel.
Thanks for the encouragement.
quikstak
"Aye, Cap'n"
If you can look at it in the "flesh" and check flatness /runout(with dial indicator) tilt/ raise functions and fence it would be better. If there is a sigificant problem though unlikely you could be in a bit of bind for service or return
The following may seem too cautious or pedantic but trust me . I see so many guys(pros) taking chances that are not necessary. I have been at this for decades.
Good luck - use the push stick from Rocker(alum with plastic handle) and others. Don't take chances. I would use splitter available from them as insert and if you can afford it use Exacta over head counterbalance guard dust collector - you will get some much more dust extracted with over and under collection for ripping. Use homemade or storebought featherboards in wood or plastic(miter slot locking) and or magnetic featherboard.
Never use your fingers anywhere near the blade whatsoever- in only takes one time.
It is always good to be reminded about safety. I like to play piano...you need fingers to do that. The switch on my B&D from Walmart welded in power on. I turn it on and off by un-plugging it. I need a magnetic switch. I have learned to just wait until the blade stops. Pressing on the blade can stop it OK but what does it do to alignment?
We are headed to Powels Book Store in Portland today. Will be considering a book on table saws and jigs. Mostly jigs. I can't wait to build a sled.
I appreciate the encouragement.
quikstak
I would consider the following almost a must for tablesaws: mag switch and the large format on/off switch: off switch is maybe 8 x 10" so you can stop it with your knee(forgot the brand right now). I have both and could not live without it safely and conveniently.
the SF has that kind of switch. I'll look for one this week. School is out for the remainder of the year. Thanks
quikstak
Reitech.com EasyOff switch - don' t think any saws have this but is super safe and reliable. Make sure you ge the right one. Only downside at all: you can turn it off accidently with knee when getting feel for it.
I found the site but can't get to the page just now. Will try later.
thanks for the information.
quikstak
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